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amp or peramp broken?


vedge

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hola...

i have the 4.1....they did a coulpe month ago and now im wondering if its worth fixing them or maybe grabbing the new 2.0ultra

is there a way to tell if its the preamp or the amp...that is broken?

here is a description of what happened...

one day my klipsh start to make a faint hissing

noise...and all the sound from the satelling was

gone (or about 95% of it) but the external headphone plug still

work....the hissing sound came from the subwoofer.

but now...i have nothing else no more hissing, no

more light on the main satelling to show the

system is plug.

a preamp is suppose to cost me 80$cdn to fix and the amp might go from 90 to 150$cdn....

maybe i should go to another speaker repair shop? might cost less?

even if i fix them im kinda scare that it will happen again...or do that if i buy another pair of klipsch speaker...maybe its just the 4.1 having those problem?!?

what do you think?

JF

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Seeing that the speakers are completely dead - I would do the following:

* Open up the AMP module and have a look at the components. (please unplug it before openning up the AMP.

* Check the fuse.

* Check R12 and R24 (two resistors near the top of the two circuit boards just above the fuse. They should be a "normal" colour and the colour bands should be clearly visible. It is very common that these two resistors are completely burnt.

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sounds like your power supply is dead. i agree with craftsman to check the resistors. if possible post some pics so i can take a look at it. the fact that you have no power at all makes me think power supply because that one board feeds the whole enchilada. if you are not any good with electronics , i am willing to fix it for you. ( or anyone elses that is amp related ) the total cost in parts to fix mine was $10 Dollars. i doubt it would be much if any more to fix yours. you handle shipping and buy the bottle of jack daniels :)

SHOUT OUT::: hi craftsman !!! my few weeks of hell are over , i am back to my regular schedule and damn happy about it !!!! and i bought another car to polish it off :)

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my r12 is dead...not sure about the one next to it...seem to be a littl black spot around one of the 2 wired of the resistor z1

the fuse seem to be ok...the wire inside is intact (never really seen a dead fuse)

is this fixable? something else might have die that u want me to check?

post-6788-13819259395252_thumb.jpg

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I was looking at the picture (nice shot by the way) and your R12 is in much better condition than my R12 when I replaced it. The brown spots on the PCB seem to be a normal addition to the board since R12 is always so hot.

Have you measured R12 with a multimeter and confirmed that it was dead - infinite or no resistance? If R12 is actually dead, it is a simple matter to replace it. If you're handy with a soldering iron (not a gun), you can do it yourself in about 1/2 hours. If not, you can probably get a repair shop to do it for a couple of bucks. The Diode Z1 seems to be okay (never heard of the diode dying in this case but there is always a first).

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A broken resistor will usually show one characteristic - the value of the resistance of the resistor will be wayyyyy offf... So, if it is a 56 K ohm resistor and it measures more that 5% off of that value (either infinite or no resistance generally) then the resistor is bad.

What else? Have a look at R26. Same issue, different value.

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You should also look for defective capacitors. You can usually tell that they are defective by the fact that they are misshapened - they just don't look a cylinder anymore. Sometimes, you will see a budge on one side or on the top. If you are really unlucky, you will see some fluid leaking out of them - just don't mistake the fluid for the glue that they sometimes use to hold the capacitor in place....

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello all - I am reviving this post. I have a similar problem with a set I just bought used!!!. It died on me and I unplugged power and let it sit. I plugged it back in and it started making real loud popping and hissing noises. Then, I saw the green light on the main satellite. A second later, it went dead.

I took the amp apart. I checked the R12 according to the pic and it reads 658 when I set my mutlimeter to '200'. I am assuming it works.

The fuse is not blown, but the mutlimeter test fails. I was told to turn off my multimeter and place leads across and that it would read 0 ohms. Well, that doesnt happen, so I am not sure.

Any other resistors or caps I can check? I smell nothing or don't see any leaks. Please advise!

Craftsman - where is the R26, I cannot find that thingey!

*EDIT* Found R26 - That sucker is fried, I think. I cannot get any sort of reading from it at all. My multimeter sits at 1. I bet its causing the problem...

Just so I know, I connect the green to the sound card right? what do I do with the purple jack connector?

Thanks!

KC

Thanks!

9.gif

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I have the exact same problem.

The picture that was attached above looks identical to mine (R12). I don't know anything about replacing resistors or resistors in general. The only thing I could come up with is 'Radio Shack'. I know they carry them, but I'm not sure which one to get. They label them 1/2 watt & 1/4 watt. They also have a repair shop, but none are anywhere near where I live. So I'll have to try and find a local shop around here.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. :)

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HomerEBW,

If you look at the resistor (R12), you will notice that the size of the thing is much larger than the ones that they sell at Radio Shack - R12 is rated for at least 1 Watt while the ones that you saw were rated at 1/4 or 1/2 Watt. If you replaced the 1 Watt one with a 1/4 or 1/2 Watt one, you will normally see the resistor melt or worse within seconds...

Locate a good electronics repair shop - TV repair guys are usually okay - in your area. Tell them that you want to replace the two resistors on the board with the same value (maybe higher wattage rating but the same value!). And then ask them how much...

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I need help ...

Could you please give me the value of the R26 ??

In a language i will be able to go and buy the resistance please and just to check when i put my meter on R12 it showed full value or 95% but R26 it didnt give me any value at all and the paint or plastic on it is cracked and shipped off ... so i guess its burned ... i will ask someone i know to install it but i need to now what to buy

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craftsman,

What were the results when u replaced your resisters? I think my R26 is bad, its not as bad as the one in the picture, but it does have a little discoloration on it, as well as some small cracks in the middle. I checked it with my meter and got nothing, but isnt it possible if the resistor is still soldiered to the board that it could pick up readings from somewhere else? I did how ever check r12 and got about .661k ohms. The big capacitor next to r26 has what looks like the possible start of a buldge, its not real noticable, though. I most likely need to replace r26, but my dad said that usually when resistors go, something else goes too, possibly the capacitor? my meter checks capacitance, but im not sure how to do it really and like i said with it still connected to the board it could possibly get false readings neways. If i do end up replacing the resistor and the capacitor its going to be more of a pain, but in the long run cheaper than buying new speakers. Although the promedia5.1's might be nice. I've had these 4.1's now for almost 4 years, and I bought them from my friend after he had them for atleast a year, maybe 2 and we've both had them through some pretty hard stuff :)

-sam

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Hey Sam,

Nice to have you aboard!

My Promedia 4.1s were still playing fine when I replaced the resistors. I figured that if I can't read them now (due to the discolourization) what chance would I have to read them when they do go bad? Both R12 and R26 had the correct measurements. Anyway, in regards to the readings, while it is true in-circuit testing (when the component in question is still soldered onto the board) does not always give true results due to other components that it may be connected to, a resistor should always give a reading of something other than infinity! If another component was connected across the resistor, then in the worst case it would be a dead short and the reading would be zero and not infinity.

Anyway, do you mean that R26 reads zero resistance or infinity? R12 seems about right I believe that the rated value of the resistor is 680 ohms. How does R12 look? I know mine was a little discoloured and was not in "new" condition so I replaced it at the same time I replaced R26. Another questionable component can cause a resistor to fail (draws too much power and the resistor overheats - hence the discolourization). Of course, it could also be a questionable resistor in the first place....

As for the capacitor, electrolytics do have a habit of going bad and drying out. This is usually caused by extreme conditions or constant heat. Of course, if a power surge went through the unit, you will see more damage.

BTW. What's wrong with the system?

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Pretty much the same thing that other people have had, although I never had any hissing or odd sounds. Yesturday I think i went out of town with my friend for a few hours, came home little bit later tried to play something didnt hear any sound, checked the "cp" and, the led light was off(which even if its getting power...the light is on, figured MAYBe for whatever reason, the power had come unplugged or something, checked it that was fine, tried another power strip still nothing, unplugged it for the night, tried it again thismorning, still nothing, so i thought id check for a blown fuse, it was still good, then came here to see if anyone else has had the same problem. Also checked the voltage going to the power with the transformer and the capacitor, and the suspect fuses and the board is getting power so the ac/dc converter (invertor im assuming) since the power going into the board with r12 and r26 was reading about 161v dc. I'll just look for the resistors to replace r12 and r26, and if i can the capacitor near, r26 i believe it is, cant see the raiting on it right now because its too close to the heatsink. So i should look for resistors of the correct ohm raiting, but as far as the wattage goes, should i just get the 1watt ones? or 2watts? and I guess the ones that are with in 2% of their raiting most likely cost more but would be better in the long run. I'll check the resistor that appears to be bad again in the morning. Any place online that would be better to get the resistors from? I haven't really looked yet.

Its possible that it was a power surge, we have a window a/c unit on the same circuit as my computer stuff, and for awhile, my computer had problems locking up, and eventully died, replaced the power supply it worked for a few months then that one "died" plus the motherboard fried, got a new motherboard and battery backup, few weeks after that, my brothers computer died, same symptoms, then he got a batter backup, all this time, nothing else has had any problems till now with the amp, but its about 6 years old and has been through alot, and still going good, no blown speakers or anything :) When i build a home theater system, (when ever that is) i'll more that likely go with klipsch :)

(whew alot of typing but im done, for now :P )

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The original rating for the resistors (I believe) is 1 Watt; however, it is hard to tell since the resistors were heavily discoloured. I would use the 2 Watt ones since it seems to be a very common problem. I've also mounted the resistor about an inch away from the PCB to try to give it a bit more airflow around the resistor.

Resistors in general are cheap. I don't think there would be large difference in price between the 2% and the 5% ones. I can't really speak to the availability of the resistors online since I was able to obtain them from a local vendor. The key issue with online vendors is the shipping cost.... Maybe you can get something else with your order (maybe some real speaker wire to replace the dental floss that was provided with the Promedias...).

It does seem kind of weird that everything seems to have a problem that you have plugged in. I know that AC units usually creates a lot of spikes and sages when it turns on and off.

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I checked the resistors again and this time im getting readings from both. r12 is getting 659ohm and r26 started out reading 24MOhm and kept going up finally reaching a little over 30mohms and then reading nothing, so i still stand by the fact that r26 is gone. Ill also replace r26 just to be on the safe side and the capacitor next to r26, if i can find one. whats the value for r26? as best as I can read from whats left of the color bands its either around 470ohms or 460ohms (yellow, violet or blue, brown). I've found a website that has a bunch of resistors (but they're only 1watt) they also have 5watt that might be pushing it. I'll look around some more and see if i can find some 2w resistors and if not, being as the original ones were 1watt and lasted me several years, it shouldnt hurt. Would be nice if there was a way to add a fan to cool the resisitors off, but then they might not work the same, I guess they need some heat to work better (kinda like vac tubes?). Anyways, I just need a confermation on the value of r26.

Thanks for all the Help and Happy Hollidays. :)

Sam

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