making cuts for speaker cabinets

[formica]

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On 2/9/2005 12:18:04 PM Champagne taste beer budget wrote:

Formica, I might be mistaken, but seems to me you've got some woodworking background?

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I have more experience in design than physical execution (BTW, the alias is all about the plastic laminate ) ... nowhere near some of the other members here. But I can say that aviserated is right about the small bit overheating and clogging up... and possibly breaking. The only difference I see between using a 1/8" bit versus a 1/4" bit is the smallest radius goes up to 1/4" but it also offers a much more robust cutter. Should only be a factor if you cutting out small text or the like. The 1/4" bit should make easy work of 1/4" hardboard.

I have used a RotorZip type tool for gypsum board cutouts... but that is entirely different stuff and is very soft. A router would be big and heavy to manipulate on wall board.

I'm planning a IB (infinite baffle) sub this summer... so I'll have lots of holes to cut... might go out and buy my own router this time.

Rob

[hwatkins]

2 cents -

For 3/4" ply or MDF a router is a good way to go. Simply use a 1/4" straight bit and make several passes increasing the depth of the cut each time. The rotary saws (for the most part) do not like the thicker, dense wood cuts.

As to circles - the DIY jig is great. There are several inexpensive circle adapters as well. I have one that goes up to 10" radius - that should let me handle most speaker openings (that would be a 20" woofer) I may need. They are all easy to use after you screw up your first two attempts (hint).

I do horn cutouts almost exclusively with the horns attaching to the front of the baffle - that frees me to some degree on making precise cut outs. When I do recess the lens face I have to be much more careful. I usually cut a bit small and use the dremel to sand to size in that instance.