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making cuts for speaker cabinets


damonrpayne

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Hi all,

I've recently obtained (graciously from colterphoto) most of the pats I wanted to make my Vertical cornwall. I want to make the enclosure out of 3/4" MDF. I don't think I'm comfortable making the cuts myself though, certainly not the woofer/horn cuts on the front baffle. I've called a couple of cabinet shops and so far no one feels this is worth their time for me to pay them to do it. Any advice?

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If you can mark you point of origin for the center of your woofer you can use a rotary saw to do this pretty easily. You would simply mark your center with a rigid object the make a rigid guide the length of your radius attach it to the origin and attach your rotary saw to it so the blade so the exact distance of your radius from your point of origin and spin in a circle controlled by your guide. Most of the rotary tools like a RotoZip or Dremmel have such a guide mechanism. You could also use a jig saw but you would have to free hand it.

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I use a jig saw. Drill a hole with a bit large enough to start the saw in.

For critical and straight lines and corners nail a guide strip of wood down to run the saw against.

If done carefully, it will get the job done nicely.

The other approach is to use a router, but I have yet to buy one. I use the jig saw instead.

DM2.gif

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One thing is to keep trying cabinet shops. If the shop has a CNC router, the job is really a trivial one to them and the cuts will be perfect. I think I went to 6 cabinet shops before I found one that would do it. But I am glad I kept trying. The shop I got to do those cabs for me now has done several other small jobs for me.

Bob Crites

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Circle Jigs for a router might help, but all tools take practice (read: screwing up a few times) to get things down ... and with the cost of materials, the cabinet maker (if one can be found) may still be the best solution. I have used a cabinet maker for one of my speaker projects. I waited forever and paid $$$$, but it did get done right... finally
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Hey Damon,

Parts arrived okay, I take it? How bout that packing job?

For your cutouts, start with marking the dimensions for your cutouts. Remember this will be the OUTSIDE of your saw cut (usually about 1/8 is removed by thickness of blade. Measure twice before cutting please!

For each cut, start with a drill about 1/4" dia and drill a hole near edge of cut mark (for mid and tweet, you may drill a hole in each corner with a 1/2" bit, that is the radius that is called for. Then play 'connect the dots' with a jig saw, medium toothed blade, and lots of patience. You're biting through 3/4" material with fairly weak saw, so let the blade do the work. If you buy a jig saw, I recommend a variable speed model. Don't push too hard or blade might flex and cause a non-plumb cut. When finished, used a sanding drum on drill to smooth the edges, voila. You've got holes!

Michael

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----------------

On 2/8/2005 1:09:31 PM m00n wrote:

Maybe this will help?

102000sn_1.gif

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m00n, that looks almost identical to my home made version with the only difference being that i left my jig long to allow for several different diameters. (that is my AV-15 Subwoofer motor board)

IMG_1231-web.jpg

A router is the way to go for making circular openings... I borrowed one.

Rob

post-11489-13819261713244_thumb.jpg

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I was gonna start a new thread, but this seems a perfect place for it.

I, too, need to make some circles in various sizes, as well as ripping some thin pieces around 15 inches long and some various free hand curves to follow iregular shapes.

My thought ws to get a Rotozip type tool, but the more I thought about it, I already have a router and router table, all I need is a way to mount the 1/8' inch Rotozip bit into a 1/4" collet on the router. I'm thinking of making a large extension table for the router table so I can do long pieces or big sheets and a removable, adjustable fence.

Anyone know where to get some sort of adapter that would set the Rotozip bit into a 1/4 inch router chuck?

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Careful, the Rotozip is very high RPM, there may be a reason they don't want you putting larger bits into it. I'd check out the safety factor before trying something not mentioned in Rotozip literature, etc. Just a precaution, don't want anyone getting hurt.

"Remember, there is no more important safety rule than this: read, understand, and follow the manufacturers safety instructions for any power tool and always use these (point to head) safety glasses (and I might add- ear plugs) "

Michael

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Careful, the Rotozip is very high RPM, there may be a reason they don't want you putting larger bits into it. I'd check out the safety factor before trying something not mentioned in Rotozip literature, etc. Just a precaution, don't want anyone getting hurt.

"Remember, there is no more important safety rule than this: read, understand, and follow the manufacturers safety instructions for any power tool and always use these (point to head) safety glasses (and I might add- ear plugs) "

Michael

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Colter, What I want to do is use the Rotozip bit in the router, not a larger bit into the Rotozip. The Rotozip is listed at like 25,000 rpm, my router is 20,000.

I started out wondering how to get a Rotozip, which I don't have, mounted into my router table. Then figured I could just use the bit, since they both run at roughly the same speed.

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----------------

On 2/9/2005 9:38:52 AM Champagne taste beer budget wrote:

Colter, What I want to do is use the Rotozip bit in the router

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May i ask what a RotoZip bit has, that makes it superior to a Router cut out bit ? I think a cut out bit will be far better for working wood... but maybe that is just me...2.gif

Rob

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I should look into that, if there is a 1/8" router bit that would go into a 1/4" chuck it would probably work, although I'm not sure it would work that well for regular cutting through thin wood. Maybe so.

The Rotozip bit is thin and made for cutting completly through material instead of edging or rabbiting it. Basically I'm looking to use it as both a edge bit and a jigsaw for thin wood and sheetrock.

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