Jump to content


Heritage Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


BEC last won the day on January 27 2014

BEC had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

204 Excellent

1 Follower

About BEC

  • Rank
    Klipsch Forum Veteran

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Russellville AR

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

    I think that stuff is usually called MDO. Medium Density Overlay. It is plywood with a resin overlay on both sides. I was told a main use for it was for highway signs.
  2. According to report from a customer of mine it is quite irritating to the eyes. He opened up the back of his old Heresy, saw the yellow powder, took a deep breath, got as close as he could to the back of the tweeter then blew as hard as he could. Said he got a pretty even coating of the yellow powder on his face including the eyes. Spent quite awhile with eyes under a faucet trying to wash that out.
  3. On the yellow powder subject, I see that on most of the K-77s that age or older. I guess it is some sort of oxidation of whatever coating is on the tweeter. Bob Crites
  4. Just for clarity, the crossover may have been modified with parts from me, but what I see in that picture, is NOT my work. Bob Crites
  5. I have not run into a bad diaphragm on a K-55M that still worked. On some very old K-55Vs, I have seen that they tend to loose output in the area below 1000hz. In that case, a new diaphragm fixes them. As they age, we may see more problems with the K-55M. Also as they age, the plastic ring you have to reuse on the K-55V diaphragm to use it as a replacement on the K-55M gets more and more brittle. When one breaks, not sure what the next move is.
  6. Yes, there is a better driver, the A-55G. But, look into the plastic back plate on the K-55M. It could be loose as Mookie said in his post above. Usually that shows up as a buzz, but could possibly just cause distortion.
  7. There are no diaphragms available for the K-55M. I have managed to modify K-55V diaphragm to use in the K-55M, but that is a tricky procedure and probably not a good thing to do as long as yours are working. Bob Crites
  8. K-43 Re-cone

    On the K-43, have you asked Klipsch if they have the recone kits. They used to have them. In fact I have a couple of the K-43 recone kits I bought from Klipsch a few years ago. Bob Crites
  9. K-43 Re-cone

    And they will only make those kits as an addition to an order for the woofers.
  10. Forte II x over OEM/Crites build

    Here is a little tip about mounting the steel core inductor. If you use a steel screw (one that can be picked up with a magnet) through the core to mount these, you will actually add a bit of core mass and that increases the amount of inductance. I ran into this one time using that style inductor and the increase was enough to effect how the circuit worked. This can be solved by using a brass screw or a stainless steel screw. Bob Crites
  11. why baltic birtch?

    What I get from them is the 4 X 8 sheets of Russian Birch. It is 18mm in thickness which is about .71 inch thickness.
  12. why baltic birtch?

    In case you do want Baltic Birch (now called Russian Birch) you can get it pretty close to where you are. Acadian Wood Products in Little Rock stocks it. They deliver it here to Russellville for me, but I am always buying a large number of sheets at a time. The reason that they stock it, is because of Klipsch so would be the same stuff they use. Bob Crites
  13. Forte II wiring drivers

    You should take both of the horns and drivers out the front to determine polarity. The midrange should have a white or yellow paint dot near the positive terminal. The tweeter has a "+" stamped into the plastic near the positive terminal. Bob Crites
  14. Epic CF-4, tweeter down

    Do you have any test results to verify this. The CF-4 crossover has correction circuits in it to specifically correct the output of the K-63-KN driver. It is hard for me to understand how those correction circuits would be right for any other driver. Not impossible I suppose, but unlikely. Bob Crites
  15. Just goes to prove once again that you should never leave a mold anywhere except a place under your personal control. To the person who had the mold made, it is a 10 to 20 thousand dollar investment. To a place that uses the mold to make your parts, it is just a heavy chunk of metal in the way until the next time someone puts in an order to use it to make some parts again. The first mold I ever had made, I left at the foundry that made my parts. The second time I wanted some parts made from that mold, found out the foundry went bankrupt and my mold was just in a pile of "company assets" that got sold for scrap to pay off creditors. The next mold I had made stays in a wooden box with handles in my warehouse. We call it the Ark of the Covenant. Just yesterday, we got it out and hauled it to Grace Manufacturing to have 1000 horns made. When I pick up those horns, next week, I will have them put the mold back in my "Ark" and it will go immediately back into my warehouse until needed again. I will not leave it with the place that is going to use it (like most people do).