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Rewiring Klipschorns


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Thanks, Larry. I have read that silver wiring can heighten brightness and tendencies toward sibilance, both of which I fight in my system with tube and interconnect selection. From your experience, it stands to reason that wiring can make a difference. Since the ends of my 7-year old Monster internal wiring are showing signs of corrosion, I think I'll try some of the enameled copper wire in a smaller guage, 14 or 16, and see what happens. I've never been that big of a believer in wiring differences, but it does seem there are some new coax-type designs in which the negative wire forms the sheath for the positive wire. Way beyond my electrical understanding, but as someone said above, just renewing the terminations should make a difference. John

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On 2/12/2005 10:37:30 AM jdyer wrote:

...yet others seem to argue that Klipsch would only use that which is "best". Then why do they use Monster?


Just FYI,

By K-Horns are factory wired on the outside (where you can see it) with big fat manly looking testosterone injected Monster cable, and the inside of the woofer chamber, where the current draw is the greatest, is wired with "classic PWK" cheap zip cord.

My belief is that customer buying a $4500 pair of speakers (back them) insisted, "Man if these are such great speakers, why don't they have double 00 battery cable to carry the 20 watts that they require?"

Klipsch simply put teh Monster Cable in there for looks.


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Those crossovers in the pics no longer look that way. I replaced all those motor run caps with metalized polypropylene. I did an A/B comparison after working on the first one and found that those spectacular sounding horns were actually muddy! Who'd a thought?

BTW, I suspect that the capacitors marked for the audio market are overpriced for the same reason as the Monster stuff. I therefore bought laboratory grade metalized poly caps through an electronics supply house (Allied Electronics) for a total of $29.00 for both crossovers. HUGE improvement for dirt cheap. For those who care, the cheap caps are yellow!

Finally, these "cheap" caps are not cheap on the scale of normal electronics. They're about 10 times more expensive than lesser units and are meant to be used for high accuracy timing and integrating circuits.

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I recommend that if one isn't sure about cabling, try silver interconnects first. That will be enough to convince one way or the other without a big outlay of cash.

In my experience with interconnects, as far a sibilance, copper is probably more likely to produce it than an equally sized silver, IMO.

The silver smooths out the somewhat "grainy" quality that I hear with copper, especially a cheap copper. This is very noticable on my system.


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