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Klipschhorn-internal wiring etc.


rune

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My Klipschhorns are only about 6 months old,and it's the closest thing too real music I've ever heard from any speaker,but...those s sounds are hurting my ears.

Could it be they requiere a longer period of breakin in?I guess Paul has modified these babies a couple of times so I dont know if thats the way to go.In my experience solid-core is the best speaker cable,so can that free me from some of the harshness I here,or other modifications?

Please give me some respons you guys who've had these great speaker for some years!cwm1.gif

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quote:

Originally posted by Ray Garrison:

What are you driving them with - CD/DVD/Phono, preamp-amp, receiver, etc.?


Ray's point is quite right. Though I don't own them, I've heard them enough times to know they are mercilessly accurate.

Don't even waste your time down the speaker cable path unless you are using something tiny like 24 gauge wire.

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I have used different set-ups.

Amps:

Audio Note kit one

VTL stereo 90

Lavardin IS

NAD 302

Preamps:

Audio preamp kit

Electrocompaniet EC-3

CD:

Audio Note CDT1 and DAC kit 1.1X

Meridian 506

NAD 502

LP:

Audio Note TT2 with IQ3

The best result i got with the VTL and NAD

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I got them new from dealer yes.

I feel I have focus on the s sounds regardless of source.

I love the way the speaker can create the illusion of a drum kit.

Do anybody have a combination that really get them kickin'?Please write me what system you have..

Runecwm11.gif

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rune, yes you can deal with sibilence (even if I can't spell it).

The first thing to look at is the source. Switching from mid-fi NAD electronics to hi-end Theta transport helped a lot with my system.

Second is to look at horns in the speakers. If you haven't dampened them with putty or the like you should.

This topic (dampening) has been discussed at length in the "Updating Older Speakers" forum.

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My understanding is that the now classic "P-Trap" addressed an issue on the Atlas midrange driver.

The newer K-Horns should have an EV driver without the resonance issue.

Does anyone out there have an opinion?

Another approach is the Al K. crossover, which everyone loves.

I think it may solve some other issues. I'm just a bit cautious to make any promises. We really don't have a data base of response curves. I'm a science type of guy.

Gil

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Deang---Horns can definately ring, this isn't just nuerotic audiophile weenie nonsense. Horns made of aluminum and sheet matal are especially prone to this and no-nonsense makers such as JBL and Altec have treated thier horns with damping compounds, Altec went so far as to surround thier sheet metal multicells with tar. TAD makes horns with a cavity full of a damping material on one of the outer sides of the horn. However some aluminum horns like the old JBL aluminum conicals don't ring at all but these are of a very rigid shape and are made of very heavy stock. Wooden horns like Edgars, SBs and JBL 2397s generally are dead, probably because of high mass, as are those of fibreglass or resin, the old EV SM-120A was a very dead horn, again probably because of high mass. Some JBLs and Beymas are made of a coated foam with reportedly very good self-damping qualities. The horn's mounting also effects the damping, a horn securely mounted to a baffle rings less than an unsupported one as the baffle adds mass to the vibrating system. So there are different ways to deal with ringing; damp the resonance or add mass and lower it below crossover, also the more mass the less the diaphragm is able to excite the horn, the diaphragm can only do so much work afterall. Damping material should be applied to the outside surfaces of the horn, how much and where depends on the horn. Midrange horns seem to profit the most by damping, though people report good results damping T-35 tweeters I doubt that the T-35's horn would resonate at frequencies of 6500hz and up, probably a placebo effect there.

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"Wooden horns like Edgars, SBs and JBL 2397s generally are dead, probably because of high mass"

TBrennan, there are a pair of Khorns on Ebay right now that seem to have wooden horns. It sounds like they were only around a year or two before PWK switched to metal-based horns. Do you have any thoughts on those as being better than the metallic ones?

Appreciate your thoughts. cwm15.gif

------------------

Klipsch 1968 ALK Cornwall "II"s (LF/RF)

ALK Belle Klipsch (Center)

Klipsch Heresy (RR/LR)

Klipsch KSW-12 sub

Sonic Frontiers Anthem AMP1 (driving Cornwalls)

Sonic Frontiers Anthem AMP1 (driving Heresy's)

Denon AVR-4800

Toshiba SD-3109 DVD

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My friend Ed sent me the following history about early Khorns:

Mid horn: These were originally fiberglass sectorals. They had the tendency to 'clack'. At the time, all the sound engineers in SF were using KHorns as studio monitors and changing out the fiberglass horns for Altec 511B sectoral horns. These horns offered almost identical sonic characteristics but were far more solid. Prior to my ownership, 511B's were installed into my KHorns. Klipsch, upon receiving feedback on the fiberglass horns went to a wood sectoral in the early 60's for about 2 years, then replaced this with

the K-400 straight horn which was metal. It would appear that the KHorns currently on e-bay fall into this window.

------------------

Klipsch 1968 ALK Cornwall "II"s (LF/RF)

ALK Belle Klipsch (Center)

Klipsch Heresy (RR/LR)

Klipsch KSW-12 sub

Sonic Frontiers Anthem AMP1 (driving Cornwalls)

Sonic Frontiers Anthem AMP1 (driving Heresy's)

Denon AVR-4800

Toshiba SD-3109 DVD

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Chris--Early Khorns used a radial horn made of thin wood, later ones used an simple aluminum exponential so the horns differ in thier fundamental design and not only in material. Personally I prefer the sound of radial horns to that of the KLipsch exponentails like the K-400 but I never heard the old Klipsch radials. I saw several of the old Klipsch radials while in Hope recently and they were built of rather thin wood, they might be more excitable than the later aluminums but I really don't know.

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