Citizen_Insane Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 My promedia 4.1 setup died. I replaced the R12 (680 ohm, 2W) and R26 (47k ohm, 2W) and it still doesn't work. The burn marks by the R12 resistor extend to the diode labled Z1 next to it. I have a feeling the diode is dead so I was wondering if anyone could point me in the directions of the specs to replace it. also, does anyone have a schematic with info on components or anything that they have access to? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citizen_Insane Posted February 20, 2006 Author Share Posted February 20, 2006 Bump b/c I really need the info, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 According to the markings on the diode, it is "1N 47A 017". Now I'm assuming that it follows the normal naming convention so it is a "1N47A" diode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citizen_Insane Posted March 11, 2006 Author Share Posted March 11, 2006 Well, I googled that number and didn't come up with anything useful. Neither Mouser nor Digikey had anything about such a diode. Any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 According to NTE's semiductor cross reference, the 1N47 cross references to a NTE109 which spec sheet can be found here - http://www.nteinc.com/specs/100to199/pdf/nte109.pdf. I'm not sure what's the difference between the 1N47A and the 1N47 is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblondi Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 I have the same problem. I was able to read the specs on my diode to be 1N4747A which is a Zener Diode 20V 1W. Hope this helps someone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
los Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 My promedia 4.1 setup died. I replaced the R12 (680 ohm, 2W) and R26 (47k ohm, 2W) and it still doesn't work. The burn marks by the R12 resistor extend to the diode labled Z1 next to it. I have a feeling the diode is dead so I was wondering if anyone could point me in the directions of the specs to replace it. also, does anyone have a schematic with info on components or anything that they have access to? Thanks! OMG I have the same exact issue and atleast 1 other person has posted the same problem within the past week or so. The sub makes a hissing/buzzing noise and it gets REALLY hot even when not in use. I opened it up and R12 is burnt ou and R26 is cracked. I also noticed that the burnt area around R12 extends to Z1. I am not an electronics person. However, if you find a solution let me know because I know some people that are. I could ask them to do the same things you do. Good luck! With so many people posting about this is it possibly a defect? I know i've had the system since 2000 but it's an aawful coincidence! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblondi Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 This to me is definatly a defect that lowers my rating of Klipsch as a whole. Its obvious that they either got a bad batch of resistors, or they put in resistors that are underratted for this application. I have since fixed my subwoofer by replacing the R12 and R26 resistor. My Z1 diode was in rough shape too so I didnt take any chances and replaced that as well. Youll have to check the yellow pages and find a local electronics supply store. RadioShack wont cut it for this application, but trust me, you can find one just ask around. This is what I found in atlanta if you cant find anything they can ship you parts: http://www.acksupply.com/. Now, I took the amp out of the sub and disconnected both of the circuit boards from the backing. I bought myself a nice new solder gun for this repair with a sharp tip. I also used some solder "wick" to pull the solder out of the board and removed the Resistors and Diode. The resistors are replaced in either direction, but be careful with the zener diode, it can only go in one way....line up the strip on the diode with the strip on the circuit board. Ok, so I replaced everything, and made sure I was making good solder contacts. Powered the unit back up and noticed that I was still getting a good deal of static, and an electronic his. Upon inspection again I now realized what was going on the whole time. Between the top of the zener diode and the resistor where the black charring is you can see arcing between the two. It wasnt making good contact. I simply took some left over lead wire that I trimmed from the resistors after installing and made a jumper between the Z1 Diode and the adjacent resistor across the top of them. I just soldered the lead to the back of the circuit board connecting both posts. VOILA! All of the hissing is now gone...its actually working better now then it was new out of the box. You reading this Klipsch: Why not offer a white paper for people to fix this problem its the least you could do? Until you recognize this error I will not buy another one of your products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
los Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 I understand that you replaced the R12, R26 and Z1. I lost you when you said: "Between the top of the zener diode and the resistor where the black charring is you can see arcing between the two. It wasnt making good contact. I simply took some left over lead wire that I trimmed from the resistors after installing and made a jumper between the Z1 Diode and the adjacent resistor across the top of them. " What do you mean by 'arcing between the two'? Also you said you made a 'jumper' between the two, what does that consist of? Could you take a picture of yours or show on the one below where you are refering to an arch and where you made your jumper? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblondi Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Im sorry I dont have pictures of what I did to fix mine but your picture will suffice to explain. If you look closely at the circuit board where you have it circled in red you will see that the tracing in the circuit board connects the lead from the Zener Diode to the lead of the resistor. What has happened is that the circuit has overloaded between the two and started to arc. My assumption is that there needed to be a better contact path from the two. The solution is when you get your new resistors they will have really long leads. Install the resistors as shown above and trim the leads so that the back side of the board has a little extra sticking out. Then with the excess lead that you just trimmed off use it is a jumper, or wire to connect the top of the Z1 Diode to top of the Resistor. I did this on the back of the circuit board and just soldered it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citizen_Insane Posted July 27, 2006 Author Share Posted July 27, 2006 I too am really dissapointed that Klipsch is so unwilling to help. It is rediculous that a set of speakers will almost definitely go bad in 4 years. Thats B.S. No electronic device should go bad that quickly. Sure it only has a 1 yr warenty, but for the love of god *PLEASE POST SCHEMATICS/ REPAIR MANUAL*. Seriously, what do you have to lose Klipsch? You've discontinued the speakers anyway and you don't offer support. The least you could do is give us tech savy people some way to fix our own problems. I'm going to order a 1n47 from digikey and replace it (even though I tested the one in my amp and it was fine). We'll see if that works. I sure hope it does.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblondi Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 try my jumper idea if the new diode doesnt work... I think it may just be a problem with the trace in the circuit board itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citizen_Insane Posted July 31, 2006 Author Share Posted July 31, 2006 I already tried that. I have the original diode pulled from the board and directly soldered to the resistor on one side and whatever it attches to on the other. I just got my diodes this weekend but haven't had a chance to install them yet. I'll do that and see if it fixes the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 Any news or updates on how the process went? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_reek Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 I found about about these failures of the promedia system two days ago. The morning I read about them, I thought "Good thing mine still works after 4 years!" I got home from work that day to find my speakers dead. I replaced a blown fuse, not a good idea. Then plugged it back in to hear a loud buzz. Unplugging quickly, I pulled the amp to explore. Following the smell and the charring. I found a component that had been blown out. After further investigating this thread today. I looked at the diode and 2 resistors aforementioned. R26 is cracked and the board is black between the diode and the other resistor. The damaged component, that I imagine was secondary to the resitor failure, is melted and I have trouble making out all the specs. I'm a electronic newb and have only done some minor repair work from online guides in the past (free IBM 260 21" monitor was worth it). So please pardon my description. On the heat sink near the transformer there are 2 three legged IC's that mount directly on the heatsink. I read somewhere else someone complaining about the lack of thermal grease on them and the fact the are clipped on not screwed. Anywho, I can read the top line as 'IRF 740.." the 40 is not for certain. the seond line is 'I*R 12' not sure on the 1 in this one. Could anyone ID this for me? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 I believe that the part you are looking for is "IRF740A". What makes you think that the transistor is dead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_reek Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Hehe, not being smart or anything, but the front side of the transistor is blown out and spread all over the pcb. The big hole in the front of it is why I couldn't make out the part number. This was the first problem I found when I opened it up and followed the smoke. The resistors mentioned above and the diode look pretty beat up too. I didn't look at them until after I read this post. Unfortunately, I'm thinking other things I've not found are fried as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 So, you're basically saying that your 4.1s was taken out in a mob hit to the transistor... Obviously, witness protection isn't working! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_reek Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 It was pretty brutal. Goes to show that replacing a fuse before troubleshooting can have nearly explosive results. I'll see about getting a picture. There is soot and metal-like bits from the transistor all the way over to the next heatsink. One post of the transitor had also evaporated. I tried the electronics store yesterday, but missed them by 10 minutes, they closed, will try at lunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_reek Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 And.... that didn't go well. I got all the parts. I had to buy some dupes of the resistors. I spent $9. I spent some time soldering all the bits in. Plugged it in, and found out that the buzz from before was sparks flying every which way. From the vicinity of the transistor I replaced, but the new one looked fine afterwards. Now I wonder if there is viscious arcing between some of the other reistors of if there is some problme with that high voltage bit oh well, it was fun to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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