OneTwoMany Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 DrWho, I may be able to give you a deal on some great drivers bought in bulk. PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Haven't heard back from you...they must have you quite busy over there with the move into the DIY market. Btw, I just wanted to add one little tidbit to the design...winISD calculates half-space so you can anticipate 6dB of gain on all of the plots by simply moving the unit into a corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Looks like a serious copntender for best "student" sub under $300. A dorm shaker and war starter. [] A Shaker it may be,When he gets it done i might buy a few for under my bed [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 maybe because you're a raw kinda person [] eh setting up angles is not as easy as you think build it square. best for beginners. The triangle may use less actual ft2 on the floor, but effectively it eats up just as much for the given interal volume. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 butt joints are the easiest as long as the wood is cut straight. Traingles use more floor space given a particular volume. Again the biggest volume is a square or rectange per given size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted July 3, 2006 Moderators Share Posted July 3, 2006 DrWho here is one that doesn't look like a sub, 5cf. It looks like it's on legs, but the legs are 1/4" off the floor. There are 4 wheels under it, much easier to move around. The amp is on the rear side, AVA 250 , 12" port length, driver is Shiva. The size was off Acoustic Visions web site. The "decorations" were just added on the outside of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 Doc, would this possibly be a good project speaker for my LaScala subs? I'd like a box that would be stackable, but would use external amplification. Or could you design me a 24" cube box for use with an EVM-18L? I have their design for their TL series bins and have one of them constructed, if you could use that as a reference. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted July 4, 2006 Author Share Posted July 4, 2006 This for PA or for home stuff? or playing recorded music outside? I suppose I could draw you up a few plans - I went home for the weekend and probably won't have something until the end of the week - but I don't think you're in a hurry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 I guess I'd first like to run the curves for the driver and box I have. It's the EVM-18L in their own design TL bin. I'll get the dimensions if you need them. I don't know if you remember, it's a big box covered in orange fibreglass. I have a second driver so could build a mate. They are large enough that the LS stacks could sit on top, or I could put them next to it. Did you have any thoughts on my General/PA sale thread of what amps to keep and how much power to load into each section of the tri-amp playback system? Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted July 5, 2006 Author Share Posted July 5, 2006 Email me whatever info you have so far - model # of the driver and dimensions of the cabinet etc etc....I can prob find the T/S parameters online somewhere. Re: cabinet shape... Just a reminder that the cabinets will all be pre-cut for the workshop - no need for electrical engineers to learn how to build a wooden box (that is a terrifying concept actually). The guy cutting the wood is a cabinet maker and has all the fancy tools necessary to cut whatever angles we want. Get the angles correct once and then cut every board the same way - and since every board will need to be ripped anyway it won't be any extra work. And Jay - any design can take up as much floor space as you want it to take - if you're trying to minimize floor area a triangle will take up less than a square. Any square that can fit a driver can be shrunk by caving in the rear. Nevertheless, due to the nature of confined spaces, I think it's going to be a multiple session seminar and during the first session we will discuss the planning stages of subwoofer design and have everyone pick their own dimensions and then try to find a middle ground to mass produce - maybe making two or three versions depending on how many people show up (expecting around 2-4 dozen). The second session will involve putting it together and then the third session we will go about verifying the design and comparing against the model. Perhaps throw in a little lecture about room acoustics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 And Jay - any design can take up as much floor space as you want it to take - if you're trying to minimize floor area a triangle will take up less than a square. Any square that can fit a driver can be shrunk by caving in the rear. Ummm....... but then again a triangle loses 1/2 b*h of a square. it can fit better into a corner but you lose volume of the sub. Also on the other note, how about making a adjustable sized subwoofer. Meaning that you make a determined width and have the depth/ height adjustable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted July 5, 2006 Author Share Posted July 5, 2006 ummmm...the volume of the cabinet is determined before you start choosing dimensions. So if you make the area of the bottom smaller, then of course the sub gets taller. Duh? Why the talk of losing volume? And for what it's worth, a triangle can have a larger area for the same usable floor space depending on the room it goes in. My room is very much that way. (italics are anticipating a response ignoring the conditionals of my statement - *sigh*) Either a cabinet fits in a room or it doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Listen, what about making the precut wood to dimensional sizes that can be manipulated in ways that it can be easy to hit the proper cubic size. You know 2,3,4,5,6 cubic feet etc. Most cabinets will fit in any room (it might be huge but it fits) but you have no clue as to what leads to the biggest volume per size requirement. A cube is the biggest volume per smallest floor space and equal height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 Listen, what about making the precut wood to dimensional sizes that can be manipulated in ways that it can be easy to hit the proper cubic size. You know 2,3,4,5,6 cubic feet etc. Most cabinets will fit in any room (it might be huge but it fits) but you have no clue as to what leads to the biggest volume per size requirement. A cube is the biggest volume per smallest floor space and equal height. The hell with it..Dont worry about the size,Just slap the cabinets to gether with chip board.[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 why make a ton of different volumes available when the design already dictates a specified volume? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 to get desired affect, hence some might want a more boomy system, some want total depth, some want music, etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 One second you're complaining about "complicated" and then you want to complicate AND screw up a design for "desired effect"? If any tweakiness is going to be implemented it will take into account room gain and knowledge of the built-in EQ which so conveniently is right where it needs to be. You can't arbitrarily change the volume of the cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 Well said Doc. For the nubile DIY or kit builder, I think the rectangular cabinet would present a simpler build. The program obviously calls out the volume, dimensions could conceivably vary a bit so long as the desired volume and other design constraints are upheld. Design ONE, make it simple to build, inexpensive, uncomplicated, and as true of reproducer and musical as can be had at the price point. Perhaps write yourself up an 'architect's specification' list to adhere to. "the WhoBox shall be of xyz dimensions and contain 987 model woofer. The interior volume shall be..... and so on... Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 One second you're complaining about "complicated" and then you want to complicate AND screw up a design for "desired effect"? Complicated with the design aspect like making precise cuts at angles, not volume of a cube or rectangle. Desired affect is not like making complicated cuts and so, you can make it variable by making cuts across that could be cut where it becomes a mitered joint or it can become a mitered area that can be a brace. If any tweakiness is going to be implemented it will take into account room gain and knowledge of the built-in EQ which so conveniently is right where it needs to be. You can't arbitrarily change the volume of the cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 something like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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