DizRotus Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 (edited) EDIT: 7/7 The plan changed, they're done & they sound great!I plan to build two of the boxes necessary to effect the bass reflex mod to La Scalas that has been discussed many times on this forum. The thread titles and links to many of the threads are included below. If you have any experience with the mods or can point to other threads it would be appreciated.FYI, as the attached photo depicts, the La Scalas are perched on top of instrument lockers in a high school band room. Bass Reflex Mod For LaScala? http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/644842/ShowPost.aspxLA SCALA BASS BIN MODS CHECK THIS OUT!!!http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/259794/ShowPost.aspxAdding bass to a pair of La Scalashttp://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/179206.aspxWhat is the DJK bass mod for La Scala's?http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/638314.aspxLascala Bass Bin Modhttp://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/513242.aspxlascala bass bin remodelhttp://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/253880.aspxLaScala porting mods - with datahttp://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/345616.aspxAudio Asylum Linkhttp://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=hug&n=59119&highlight=djk+lascala&r=&session EDIT: 12/20/2015 Photos deleted to free up server space. Edited December 20, 2015 by DizRotus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 oh man I thought that lascala was in a dog pound [:$] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted July 4, 2006 Author Share Posted July 4, 2006 I decided to go through the roof . . . of the dog house, seal the back of the top and have the ports face to the rear. The added 10" height from the boxes would have been unacceptable in this application. In the unlikely event that the band director is not pleased with the results, it would not be difficult to again seal the dog house and go back to normal. I'll post pictures and an evaluation of the results. First I need to solve a riddle regarding the autotransformers addressed in the thread linked below. Autotransformer Taps Questions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 I decided to go through the roof . . . of the dog house, seal the back of the top and have the ports face to the rear. The added 10" height from the boxes would have been unacceptable in this application. In the unlikely event that the band director is not pleased with the results, it would not be difficult to again seal the dog house and go back to normal. I'll post pictures and an evaluation of the results. First I need to solve a riddle regarding the autotransformers addressed in the thread linked below. Autotransformer Taps Questions? I provided an example of tap settings to answer your 4.6 db value question on your autoformer thread. If you need more combinations, let me know. see diagram at my response to this question on your autoformer tap question thread. Very good question. The closest I can get you to 4.6 using the t2a is a value of 4.5. I attached the only schematic from klipsch that i have seen that shows the tap, atten, imped for the t2a. For your question, the key goal is finding a tap setting that will yield approx a 3x imped value. To get a value of 4.5, my estimates suggest that leaving tap 5 connected to in-line + and leaving tap 0 connected to in-line gound WHILE connecting the squawker + to tap 4 and the squawker - to tap 1 will accomplish a 3X imped step up value and provide the -4.5 closest value atten possible with the t2A. please note the phasing arrangement on your version of the klipsch network. Some implementations reverse + and - on the squawker, is so, just follow thru at taps 4 and 1 using the same phase reversal arrangement. There are other autoformers avaliable that have as much as 12 possible tap settings, but using the approach I just presented can provide a significant amount of flexibility in determining the step up or step down imped:atten. If you want more combinations, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 They're done . . . sort of.[1] I'm waiting for some new caps from Bob Crites to fine tune the networks. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> The improvement in the bass was immediately apparent.[2] The predicted increased relative loudness of the squawker was also immediately apparent. As of now, I've taken the advice of Bob, Dean and djk and dropped from tap 4 to tap 3 on the autotransformers and placed 15 ohm resistors across the squawker leads. The attenuation of the squawkers seems nearly perfect. When the caps arrive, Ill eliminate the resistors. So far, the bass seems to go lower without sacrificing any of the fast tight bass that Ive always liked with La Scalas. It will be interesting to see if the difference is as apparent when the speakers are returned to their perches on the tops of instrument lockers. Cutting into the La Scalas was easier than expected. One, theyre not mine and two, their rough history as bar speakers for decades removes them from the furniture category. In the unlikely event that anyone wants to restore them to stock operation, it would be easy to again seal the dog houses and return the networks to stock Type AA. I dont see that happening though. In Bass Reflex Mod For LaScala? Mowtnbkr asked about the need for damping material. Right now there is none. Unlike doing the boxes below the speakers where some stuffing could be placed on the floor, there is no easy way to add damping material in this configuratrion without it falling inside the dog house. If you read this djk--or anyone else with pertinent experience--what do you suggest? Michael Colter has trained me not to take flash photos of black speakers. The daylight is failing fast. Pictures will be taken and posted tomorrow. [1] Two 4 x 7 PVC ports Gorilla glued into the ¾ plywood cover for the backs of the tops. The networks will be mounted upside down to the inside of the tops, to clear the ports and the squawker. Right now the networks are outside the box connected via leads to the drivers passing through a port to allow easy experimentation without removing the new backs. I also added braces to the bass bins. [2] Of necessity the auditioning is being done in a closed two car garage. Not the ideal listening environment. H/K 430 receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 Still you can't trust the meter even with daylight. The meter sees dark object, then overexposes to compensate. If you can switch to manual, meter and set settings based on neutral gray surface (grass or concrete is good) that's lit the same as your black subject. Then fire away. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted July 8, 2006 Author Share Posted July 8, 2006 (edited) The bass bin braces. EDIT: 12/20/2015 Photos deleted to free up server space. Edited December 20, 2015 by DizRotus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted July 8, 2006 Author Share Posted July 8, 2006 (edited) The networks are now upside down inside the tops to clear the ports. EDIT: 12/20/2015 Photos deleted to free up server space. Edited December 20, 2015 by DizRotus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted July 8, 2006 Author Share Posted July 8, 2006 (edited) The ports on the backs with the network temporarily outside the box until the final tweaking is completed then back in the box. EDIT: 12/20/2015 Photos deleted to free up server space. Edited December 20, 2015 by DizRotus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted July 8, 2006 Author Share Posted July 8, 2006 (edited) Klipsch car audio. EDIT: 12/20/2015 Photos deleted to free up server space. Edited December 20, 2015 by DizRotus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted July 8, 2006 Author Share Posted July 8, 2006 (edited) "But Dad, you said I could choose the speakers for the Miata." EDIT: 12/20/2015 Photos deleted to free up server space. Edited December 20, 2015 by DizRotus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 Did you add the aluminum edging? If so, where did you get it? Reason I ask is because of the brass klipsch logo and that these LaScala's do not have handles, or the stock backplate to cover the xover area. Normally the LaScala's with the AL-3 xovers, k-55-m drivers, the backplate, and the side handles have the aluminum trim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted July 8, 2006 Author Share Posted July 8, 2006 (edited) Yes. These were very rough bar speakers. I added the aluminum (from Home Depot) to avoid having to rebuild every corner and edge. To avoid rattling, I buttered the edges wiith black silicone and let it squeeze out when the aluminum was screwed down. The excess was cut off after it cured. That trim will not come loose, buzz or rattle. For the details go to Four abused Lascalas need a good home - sold https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/62250-four-abused-lascalas-need-a-good-home-sold/ Edited July 16, 2014 by DizRotus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 yes I was thinking the HD stuff would work. real issue is the front piece for the dog house. any ideas for the front piece? you did a good job with these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted July 8, 2006 Author Share Posted July 8, 2006 Thanks. The band director and the kids in the band like them. I considered adding aluminum to the front edge (the peak pf the dog house roof) but decided against it. You can buy right angle pieces but the angle on the edge is 60 degrees. It would be possible to attach one side and then carefully hammer the remaining edge down from 90 degrees to 60 degreees. Since those edges were about the only clean lines on the speakers I decided to leave them alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 I used to work on aircrafts in one of my previous lives and have some metal work experience. The aluminum would probally crack if I were to try to bend it. But, putting 2 straight pieces (one on each side) might give it the same effect. Did you use a radial arm saw to make the 45 degree cuts on the aluminum ends? I am debating cutting up 2 sets of LaScala's and trying out turning them into a set of Jubilee type cabs. If I don't go thru with that, I'll be re-finishing them, and will probally trim them with aluminum. btw, there a fellow selling the silver "professional klipsch" plates on ebay off and on, in case you want to silver touch those as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 Thanks for the pics and the project review. Looks great. I think it's pretty handy to have the ports done through the HF rather than sitting on another cab. They look fabulous on the car installation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 Did you add the aluminum edging? If so, where did you get it? Reason I ask is because of the brass klipsch logo and that these LaScala's do not have handles, or the stock backplate to cover the xover area. Normally the LaScala's with the AL-3 xovers, k-55-m drivers, the backplate, and the side handles have the aluminum trim. You are speaking of the Industrial Series, which these speakers are not. Industrials featured a 200 watt K43 woofer instead of the usual K33. The industrials were available as split cabinets (see my photo), and there were several cabinet finishes, the finest of which was the fibreglass mat and gel with aluminum trim. There was also pebble black with trim, pebble black with rubber corners, and probably others. As you mentioned, they had the 5 sided jack cups with integral fuse holders, which bore the nomenclature '200 watts'. In the all-in-one versions, side handles were provided. In the splits, there is a single handle for the mid/hi section, the bass bin is carried with one hand in the horn, one hand in a small cutout in the top back. Neil- That is a great idea squeezing the silicone between the edges and your trim. Those get better looking every mod you make. I like the simple approach you took with the removeable doorway. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 I used to work on aircrafts in one of my previous lives and have some metal work experience. The aluminum would probally crack if I were to try to bend it. But, putting 2 straight pieces (one on each side) might give it the same effect. Did you use a radial arm saw to make the 45 degree cuts on the aluminum ends? I am debating cutting up 2 sets of LaScala's and trying out turning them into a set of Jubilee type cabs. If I don't go thru with that, I'll be re-finishing them, and will probally trim them with aluminum. btw, there a fellow selling the silver "professional klipsch" plates on ebay off and on, in case you want to silver touch those as well. Klipsch set up a special foundry for the metal corners for this series. On the splits, note that the top is trapezoid shaped, so there are two shapes of metal corners, neither of which is all 90 degree angles. They are interesting looking and far from perfect, but do the job nicely. So the rest of the angles are just straight cuts. Note also that Klipsch put trim on the 'knife edge' in the doghouse, which is also sharper than 90 degrees, so that piece had to be formed separately. In later units, a plastic knifeedge piece was utilized. I have both and can take closeups if anyone is interested. Oh, and anyone could probably have the 'logo plates' made up at any trophy shop. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted July 9, 2006 Author Share Posted July 9, 2006 (edited) It's just before closing time. Here you can see the open wound into the dog house as well as the 4" x 7" PVC port tubes. Rather than mount the networks in the original location, by mounting them upside down to the underside of the top, it allowed the port tubes to not interfere with the networks. A half sheet of 3/4 plywood was sufficent to make the four bass bin braces and the two backs for the tops. EDIT: 12/20/2015 Photos deleted to free up server space. Edited December 20, 2015 by DizRotus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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