Clarence Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Hi guys I am working on a refurb project on a Polk Passive subwoofer. I opened it up today to remove the drivers and start sanding, but when i carried it downstairs, I heard something large rolling around in the bottom. this thing is builts like a brick shithouse, but please see below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarence Posted August 11, 2006 Author Share Posted August 11, 2006 this is what was making the noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarence Posted August 11, 2006 Author Share Posted August 11, 2006 this is where it came from.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarence Posted August 11, 2006 Author Share Posted August 11, 2006 and this is the rest of the crossover, mounted to the bottom of the cabinet. it has a brother right beside it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarence Posted August 11, 2006 Author Share Posted August 11, 2006 this is the model number, if helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarence Posted August 11, 2006 Author Share Posted August 11, 2006 the wire on the cap? that was in it is broken at the body. I have basic soldering abilities and equipment. thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 I'm not quite sure of the question. From what I can read, that is a 27 uF capacitor. The "u" is supposed to be the Greek letter "mu" which looks a lot like it. So you order a similar capacitor (check the voltage rating too) from Parts Express and solder it in. It looks like it would be difficult to solder the lead back where it broke off. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 looks like you need a new capacitor. also look like one end goes to the resistor which now appears unconnected on the left side, and the other end of the cap connects to that small piece of wire which is hanging down about 2 inches above the resistor. Looks like a mirror image of the right side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarence Posted August 11, 2006 Author Share Posted August 11, 2006 yes it reads 27-uF-50VAC if I cant reattach it to the remaining wire, how would I install it? I imagine it will require some glue and some wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 buy a ne one from partsexpress and solder it on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 I would just rip the entire old crossover apart (nicely) and then rebuild it in a more tweak friendly fashion. The inductor can stay where it is, but that "PCB" on the back of the input terminal looks like too much of a pain to to fiddle with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Buy a pair of 27uF mylar or polypropylene and replace both. The original is an electrolytic, and is worn out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarence Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=027-942&CFID=2635493&CFTOKEN=84546023 this doesent look the same... also mine say 50VAC these say 400VAC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 the 400vac can handle more peak watts than a 50vac. if you can find a 250 vac, even that would be a higher peak rating than what you currently have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 The 400V ratings are DC, not AC. 50 VAC is 140V peak-to-peak. A 100V DC rated cap will do just fine. Use three 10µF in parallel. http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=1564301.27913&pid=1771 Better yet, chuck the passive crossover and buy a $49.95 plate subwoofer amplifier. http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=MCMProducts&product%5Fid=50%2D6266A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarence Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 will the one in the link I posted work? I dont know how to solder parts in parallel. I am not interesten in adding a amp either, my NAD had the NAD's to drive this and speakers NP. Thanks for trying to keep this simple for my pea-sized brain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 Those Jantzens are perfect for what you are doing Clarence. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarence Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 thanks Rick! ill let ya know how it works! (the color changeover is going the greatest.) Ive never been a great painter[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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