Mike Lindsey Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 I am tired of having to switch the speaker cables between the VRD's and my Acurus A200X3, and really feel it is time to find a box that can do this for me. Because of my wall rack it is a real pita to get behind the gear and do the switching, therefore I am ready to get me one of these boxes. From looking at the Niles box everyone has mentioned on this site I see that it does not take banana clips, and I really don't want to have to take them off the AQ Slate bi-wires I am using on the La Scala's. Does anyone know of a box like the Niles that takes banana clips? Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 To answer your question, I don't know of anything. With that out of the way, would it be possible to make a pigtail? Attach a lead to the Niles and on the other end of that lead, attach a banana receiver? Just thinking outloud as I don't know if you can or can't do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Me Loves Khorns Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Another idea possibly it to do this: Have speaker wires running from speakers to a device ( I know RS has one ) that is essentially a kit to build a new speaker with. It recieves banana plugs as though it were mounted to the back of a speaker. On the other side, it would have the speaker wires attached going to the speaker itself. This little thing could then be attached or at least nearby the amps. The speaker wires coming from the amps themselves that are terminated in banana plugs, could then be plugged into the female part of this thingamabob. You would then only have to plug whichever amp you were wanting to listen to at that moment. Would at least be easier than reaching around the back of the amps themselves each time. Hope that was thouroghly confusing. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Is that how you explain tubal ligations? [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Me Loves Khorns Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Pretty much so. I do give them the option of tying the boy or the girl tube...[] Actually had a pt. ask me to tie off the girl tube only once. Same one wanted a fraternity test to see who that daddy was...[*-)] I thought, you want to know who your brother is, or is the brother possibly the father? Man, I feel an Arkansas joke coming on here, but in deference to all that is wonderfully made in Arkansas, I will hold out. [6] Of course, I was in Oklahoma when that happened, so, coulda been suspicious like...[] Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyK Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 ended up going with the pig tails and an Adcom box. I have the Niles box too, but the Adcom looks fancier. Even the receptors on the Adcom box were very small. Haven't the engineers that built these leaned that you need fat cable with esoteric names to pass good music electrons? peace, TommyK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 ended up going with the pig tails and an Adcom box. I have the Niles box too, but the Adcom looks fancier. Even the receptors on the Adcom box were very small. Haven't the engineers that built these leaned that you need fat cable with esoteric names to pass good music electrons? peace, TommyK Thanks for the replies, fellas! Do you have the model # of this Adcom box? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyK Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 The Adcom has funky twist type connectors and has a protection circuit button so you can't play both at the same time. The Niles has connectors very close together, but if memory serves, always has the circuit on and mimics a load. Peace, TommyK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Man, I really need to finish my switch box...if you're interested I can sell the first one at cost. I have a half built one in my bedroom that I haven't bothered to finish. It's all relay based which means clean signal path. And for those with tubes there is a load available for the inactive amplifier so that it doesn't run into oscillation and blow itself up if you leave it on. Eventually I'll get around to making it remote controlled too. Right now there's just a switch to be flipped. Making it bi-wire friendly would be possible too - though quite a bit more expensive (it's basically two switchers in one controlled with the same switch). The only reason I sat down and designed one is because there doesn't seem to be a quality unit on the market for such a purpose. If you come across one I would be more than interested in hearing about it. I'll need to go research this adcom switcher too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 Well, I might be interested if you were to put 5-way binding posts on the 2 amp inputs and the speaker outputs. Here is a DIY schematic I saw if you are interested: http://sound.westhost.com/absw.htm Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Interesting DIY design...I'm using two 4PDT relays for the amp switching to allow for discrete grounds (no possible ground loops). The switch itself will not be in the signal path at all. I should probably sit down sometime and draw out a clean description of the circuit. When amp A is selected, the LR signal from amp A goes directly to the LR speakers. Amp B is then routed through dummy load resistors. When amp B is selected the LR signal from amp B goes directly to the LR speakers and amp A is now routed to the same dummy load resistors. The dummy resistors are providing a load for the inactive amp which is required if you're using tubes in your setup. There is no overlap in the switch transition region which prevents the amplifiers from driving the same load at the same time and then the relays are wired such that a loss in power to the unit also prevents the amps from driving the same load. It just defaults to amp A. I never thought of making a wired remote, which is a mega cool idea. I was going to use TTL logic for the actual switching system though...that way it would be trivial to expand the unit to 3, 4, 5 way operation...probably not applicable to an amp switcher, but would be for line-level switching. These are the jacks I've got right now, but if you wanted something fancier it's a drop-in replacement: (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=090-475) I'm not sure what constitutes "5-way"...bare wire, banana, spade, ....??? If you wanted to go nicer then I would recommend these as the next step up: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-630 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Me Loves Khorns Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 What I so eloquently described previously!@#$%% was meant to refer to the above part. If the speaker cables were attached to the speaker and then attached to the male end of the above part, couldn't you then bring the speaker wires from the amp down to the female end of that part. You could then choose which one to plug in based on which amp you wanted to use. You could place this somewhere convienient in order to switch out the amps. I suppose you would not want a tube amp to be running while it was unplugged, but otherwise, would be simple and cheap. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 Dr Who - so there would be a $20 difference or so when using the latter posts. Depending on actual cost I would prefer the latter. Just to reiterate the 2 amps will be NOSValve VRD's (tubes) and an Acurus A200X3 (SS). Let me know the cost and when it might be available. Out of curiousity, what will the case be made of? A black box like all the others? Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Here's the enclosure: http://www.hammondmfg.com/1455V2.htm If anyone knows of something similar but cheaper let me know. I really wanted the metal body as it adds a lot of weight to the unit. The last thing you want is the box flying all over the place when moving cables around and pushing buttons. Granted the aluminum isn't an immovable brick, it's a lot more solid than a cheap plastic box. The aluminum enclosure also performs double duty as a heat sink for the dummy loads; just in case someone feels like swapping between amps at 50W continuous (120dB on a khorn?). Though they probably have other issues... [] The one I have now is the black aluminum with the black plastic endcaps, just big enough to fit 6 of the dual banana jacks. If you wanted to go with bi-wiring then you'll need a larger enclosure (I haven't measured yet to see if it'll fit on their biggest one). There is always the option of mounting some of the jacks on the front too. I personally prefer the silver body with translucent blue endcaps, but figured black was a more standard approach. Btw, you need 6 banana jacks...so the difference in cost is $37. If you want strictly banana jacks you might also consider these which would actually be cheaper: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-1160 Right now I figure the raw cost to be roughly around $120. I was aiming for under $80 so I could get a little profit for the same $100 cost of the Niles box. I'll probably end up selling them for $150 (except the first one I'll build at cost). Tack on $37 to all those numbers for the fancier plugs (yikes). So with all the bells and whistles you're talking $200 tops, but I think that's a bit insane. If you're seriously interested I can spend some time this weekend to get an actual number and anything else you might want. Apart from a little compensation for my time, I'm not really hoping to make any money - just trying to provide a higher-end solution to a frequent need on the forum. So if anyone wants to put together one for themself let me know and I'll gladly distribute the designs and places to purchase and all that. I figure it taking a good 3-4 hours to put one together all pretty like (cuz we all know the better it looks the better it sounds) [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 Here's the enclosure: http://www.hammondmfg.com/1455V2.htm If anyone knows of something similar but cheaper let me know. I really wanted the metal body as it adds a lot of weight to the unit. The last thing you want is the box flying all over the place when moving cables around and pushing buttons. Granted the aluminum isn't an immovable brick, it's a lot more solid than a cheap plastic box. The aluminum enclosure also performs double duty as a heat sink for the dummy loads; just in case someone feels like swapping between amps at 50W continuous (120dB on a khorn?). Though they probably have other issues... [] The one I have now is the black aluminum with the black plastic endcaps, just big enough to fit 6 of the dual banana jacks. If you wanted to go with bi-wiring then you'll need a larger enclosure (I haven't measured yet to see if it'll fit on their biggest one). There is always the option of mounting some of the jacks on the front too. I personally prefer the silver body with translucent blue endcaps, but figured black was a more standard approach. Btw, you need 6 banana jacks...so the difference in cost is $37. If you want strictly banana jacks you might also consider these which would actually be cheaper: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-1160 Right now I figure the raw cost to be roughly around $120. I was aiming for under $80 so I could get a little profit for the same $100 cost of the Niles box. I'll probably end up selling them for $150 (except the first one I'll build at cost). Tack on $37 to all those numbers for the fancier plugs (yikes). So with all the bells and whistles you're talking $200 tops, but I think that's a bit insane. If you're seriously interested I can spend some time this weekend to get an actual number and anything else you might want. Apart from a little compensation for my time, I'm not really hoping to make any money - just trying to provide a higher-end solution to a frequent need on the forum. So if anyone wants to put together one for themself let me know and I'll gladly distribute the designs and places to purchase and all that. I figure it taking a good 3-4 hours to put one together all pretty like (cuz we all know the better it looks the better it sounds) [] I'm interested... and like the banana jacks you reference above. I will be using 6 wires with banana jacks so they will be fine. Give me a price based on those (hopefully under a $100) and we have a deal. I found the Niles DPS-1 here for $80.00... http://www.federalstereo.com/nildpamabsel.html Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 Hey Who, are we gonna do this? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 lol, I meant it literally when I said: If you're seriously interested I can spend some time this weekend to get an actual number and anything else you might want. [] As much as I love this hobby school has gotta come first [6] - and then I work until 1AM tonight and 2AM tomorrow night in addition to a cousin's wedding tomorrow afternoon. I hate to make promises (for fear of breaking them), but I should have all the details wrapped up by Sunday. Gonna need some time to shave the price down a bit, which means market research. I don't usually read through electronics catalogs in my spare time [] Btw, what details were you wanting? Just a price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 Didn't see the weekend quote. Apologize... Yeah, I was just looking for a price from you. Those banana clips you linked to in your last post for $3 and change will do the trick. When you have it all figured out shoot me your email and I'll paypal you the cost. Appreciate the effort... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Hey Mike, figured I'd post the grand total in this thread in case anyone else wanted to build one themselves. Right now I calculate the cost to be $74.89 before shipping, taxes, and the cost of all the other miscellaneous items (speaker/signal cables, solder, heatshrink, etc...). Then there's the price of shipping the completed package. I'm not sure how much all that extra stuff is going to cost, but I'd imagine the final will come real close to $100? For those interested here are links to purchasing all of the parts: http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=806-0130&SEARCH=Hammond+Enclosure&n=&MPN=1455T2202BK&DESC=1455T2202BK (Quantity: 1) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-1160 (Quantity: 6) http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=821-4042&SEARCH=4PDT+Relay&n=&MPN=MY4%2DDC12%28S%29&DESC=MY4%2DDC12%28S%29 (Quantity: 2) * http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=120-045 (Quantity: 1) * http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=120-082 (Quantity: 1) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=090-488 (Quantity: 1) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=080-540 (Quantity: 1) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=070-003 (Quantity: 2) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=003-750 (Quantity: 1) http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/resistors.html (Quantity: 2) (click on the Mills-MRC50 link, use 10 Ohm) http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=908-0068&SEARCH=SRJ23A3BBBNN&n=&MPN=SRJ23A3BBBNN&DESC=SRJ23A3BBBNN (Quantity: 1) http://www.hammondmfg.com/1455V2.htm (just a link to pictures / dimensions of the enclosure) And then here's a diagram of the circuit layout. There are banana jacks for each of the amplifier inputs and speaker outputs. The resistors are just hardwired to the relays. The voltage source for the relay trigger is the 12V DC Adaptor. If it doesn't make sense let me know. EDIT, updated the diagram to be a bit more intuitive and to show the placement of the optional resistors in parallel with the first LED. Also, the original AC Adaptor sold out so I put up the next cheapest option. This new plug can have any tips attached and the polarity reversed - since the relays won't work with reversed polarity I'll put super glue on the tip once I figure out which direction it needs to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 That looks and sounds real good, Who. As for the banana plugs you only need 3 pairs at $2.95/pair. Not sure if you thought you needed 6 pairs or not. Not sure what you mean about speaker/signal cables, but I'll be providing two 4' pairs of cables that will run from my amps to the box. If you meant differently, I apologize. I would appreciate if you could test this for me on your end with a couple of amps just to let me know you are confident that it works. [] Let me know how much it comes to and I'll be happy to send you the money via paypal. Thanks again, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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