arco Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Hi everybody, If anyone has experience on Transcendent Sound OTL amps driving Klipsch speakers, please share... Aristidis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Atma-sphere music has an owners BBS for questions like these, but the general opinion seems to be that simple 2A3 or push-pull pentodes can do a wonderful job with horns w/o the expense of OTL amps; horns are usually not paired with OTL amps ... ------------------ Cornwalls & Klipsch subs; leather couch & feet up; lights out & tubes glowing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bey Posted November 20, 2001 Share Posted November 20, 2001 I know someone with an AtmaSphere and Klipschorns. He sold me his Laurel 300Bs since they didn't deliver the 'oomph' he wanted, while the 65W AtmaSpheres did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arco Posted November 20, 2001 Author Share Posted November 20, 2001 Thanks for the input Randy, I know exactly what your friend's problem was! I had exactly the same with my SUN 300B and 2A3 amps. But I have solved it by building 300B/2A3 monoblocs with very beefy power supplies and low gain (for silence of operation...), simple Loftin-White circuits. You can have a look of those by visiting: www.aca.gr/pop_coumpas.htm I have already heard KH's with the smaller 30WPC Atma Sphere and they sounded really good. A very distinctive, neutral sound that ressembles neither to tubes or transistors...And the oomph was there, all right. If I inquire on the TS OTL's is because they seem interesting technically and much cheaper also! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bey Posted November 20, 2001 Share Posted November 20, 2001 Very nice website, arco. Your tweaks to your khorns are practically in line with my own. I have yet to strengthen the bass horn with wood strips however. This is only a matter of time, as I have to grow accustomed to the sound differences each change brings -- I have been known to take out tweaks because I didn't like them. One thing not on your web page was stuffing the rear chamber of the bass driver. I would recommend this, it really helped the lower registers with mine. Use fibreglass insulation, and fill the area behind the woofer about 1/2 full. When I did this -- no joke -- I thought the woofer was going to damage itself, it went so low! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arco Posted November 21, 2001 Author Share Posted November 21, 2001 Hi Randy, Yes, I have read about this mod (i.e. that the woofer sees a "bigger horn" that way, thus going deeper). Somehow, I've got the impression that those who tried it had rather mixed impressions. You know, the eternal story of "playing with physics" thing! As you are so positive about it, I believe I will finally try it. But please tell me: Are there any things I should know regarding the successful implementation of the mod? i.e. density of the fill, any hints on positioning etc... Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bey Posted November 21, 2001 Share Posted November 21, 2001 I did no experimentation whatsoever. However, my thought process was as such: Given the statement that Klipsch was unable due to cabinet issues able to make the rear loading chamber large enough, then any increase would be a discernable improvement. I started then with filling the chamber 1/2 full as a start, figuring I could either increase or decrease from there as my perceptions indicated, but at least I would be close to right. I never changed them a bit. As with all my tweaks, it is completely removeable, and I find it has a high effect to cost ratio, since I used pieces of insulation that had been laying around in my house for years. Total cost then was about 1 hour of my time. Before this tweak I spent several months agonizing over a good subwoofer, and all the associated difficulties that would bring. Now I couldn't care less about getting a subwoofer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edster00 Posted November 21, 2001 Share Posted November 21, 2001 Randy, Just because I can make the easiest job impossible...how exactly do you do the insulation mod? You open the "door" into the bass cabinet and just lay insulation in there? TIA ------------------ Ed W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bey Posted November 21, 2001 Share Posted November 21, 2001 Ed, yes, you unscrew the bass driver door and stuff the insulation in there. The verb 'lay' is not quite right, stuff is closer. The tops and bottoms of the chamber are angled, so the insulation gets a bit compressed there, but otherwise it is just a single layer of fibreglass running along the 'back' wall of the chamber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arco Posted November 22, 2001 Author Share Posted November 22, 2001 Just a piece of advise, Randy! What kind of fiberglass insulation did you use? Trying to acquire some of it, I have been told that there are many different kinds, according to the final use. That is that the sound proofing insulation is different than the thermal one etc. What I have at home is the normal polyfill used to damp speaker cabinets. I was about to using it in the KH's, but then I thought to proceed directly with your "lucky solution"! So, if you can remember why you had this F.I. stock at home... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bey Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 arco, the fibreglass I had left over from insulating the eaves in my basement. Just your standard, pink, stuff it in the walls type of fibreglass that you can buy at a hardware store. Other materials would surely work just as well, if not better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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