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damonrpayne

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normally the ceiling is hung first so that the wall pieces help support it along all the edges.

You might also get a 'kicker' board to snug the wall boards up tight. When remodeling basements, I usually left 1/2" gap at the bottom so that any slight moisture that might appear is not wicked up by the drywall.

When I do my basement HT, I am going to glue the drywall as well as screw it in. Are you using screws or nails?

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normally the ceiling is hung first so that the wall pieces help support it along all the edges.

You might also get a 'kicker' board to snug the wall boards up tight. When remodeling basements, I usually left 1/2" gap at the bottom so that any slight moisture that might appear is not wicked up by the drywall.

When I do my basement HT, I am going to glue the drywall as well as screw it in. Are you using screws or nails?

My house was built with a 1/2 exposure, so the west wall of my basement was 4' of blocks below ground and then typical siding/framing/insulation/drywall for the rest. The wall you see was done when I moved in (no chance to do ceiling first), so I went ahead and did the part below that. We are using dyrwall screws.

We did the rest of the ceiling yesterday and will do the walls this weekend. I taped and mudded the ceiling last night. So far its gone as well as I'd hoped, but it is tiring work to be sure!

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one thing is for certain- the human body was not engineered to work with hands above the head all day long! You'll ache in places where you didn't know you had places!

Slow but steady- if you get tired of mudding- STOP, better to do less than leave any big mess to sand down the next day.

To speed drying, get a large circulator type fan, put in middle of room aimed straight up to circulate air. Run dehumidifier on HIGH and keep heat on in the room. And when sanding- cover the cold air returns to the room, or finish with a sponge (if you're really good at mudding!)

Good luck Damon!

Michael

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Best advice so far and I did this too...

To speed drying, get a large circulator type fan, put in middle of room aimed straight up to circulate air. Run dehumidifier on HIGH and keep heat on in the room. And when sanding- cover the cold air returns to the room, or finish with a sponge (if you're really good at mudding!)

DO NOT under any circumstances... Let the drywall dust get in your furnace... CLOSE this area off... HUGE MISTAKE if you do...

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  • 2 weeks later...

You can tell when you're good at mudding- there should be nearly NO sanding between coats. Whip your mud with the big square mixer and a little water so it's nice and creamy. Run your blade slowly and smoothly.

We used to finish our work with damp sponges- no sanding at all!

Take your time.

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Michael's line is very true........... " Slow but steady- if you get tired of mudding- STOP, better to do less than leave any big mess to sand down the next day. "

The other thing is mud gets very heavy after a few hours you will feel muscles you didn't know you had. Also bad on your joints, ask my wife, she had overdone it and her joints hurt her for weeks.

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Mud down the inside corners using your 3" angled knife to apply mud, smooth out. Pre-fold tape and apply to mud, smooth down. Apply topping coat of mud using first knife- then using a CORNER TOOL, smooth down until you have no exess mud and no stroke marks.

Following coats are 6" and 8" knifes, but just feather out the edges, don't get more mud in the last 1-2" of corner since that is perfected already.

Michael

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See where your tape is in the tapered seams? The next coat should smoothly cover to those edges- it should look like like a very smooth 6" band of mud. Looking good though, no corner bead or tape poking out that I can see.

I see ya got unlucky with your outlet placement, best to have them avoiding seams- makes for better seams and better cover plate fittment. Oh well.

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