Good.......to good

[brennyE]

constraint is over rated []

no just joking! whenever I crank music (unless I am having a bass session.......You gota feel the bass!) I am never in the listening room. I just use it to fill the house with music, or for small parties put them pointing at the window next to the seating area. Whenever I am in the room and the music is very loud I am only listening to it for very short periods (my ears never ring or go numb or anything)

but sometimes when the mood strikes (and I actually have a functioning subwoofer lol) I like to play some bass heavy music (techno, trance, dance) with the bass up high and the music alot less so........sounds like shizen but feels awsome!

[DrWho]

You need to get yourself a pair of PA bass bins...pretty much any dual 15 JBL sounds right up your ally []

[darkside]

I am always kicking myself for not buying a more bigger and efficient speaker that klipsch sells.

I

do the same thing... I have even "kicked" myself over getting my

Supernova (less than $400 when I had a $500 budget) and not something

better, like some Velo, even though I had the opportunity...

DANG! I just noticed the Alliance has been removed from the Ascendant Audio website!!!!NOOO!!!![]

[CECAA850]

The Alliance has never actually been for sale or produced.

[darkside]

I know, but I figured it was on there, so maybe one day...

[CECAA850]

They got a lot of peoples hopes up. Oh well, at least the Arsenals CRANK.

[darkside]

yeah...[]

[brennyE]

Thats my problem.......I always wish I had saved up for a few more weeks and gotten the size up/series up from what I got......every single time! Although I am starting to get really excited about--maybe--buying this Adire Audio Maelstrom! I am thinking that the price is around $600-700 (dont worry folks thats in Australian currency!) and if thats what it ends up being I think I might jump on board and get one! (after I buy it I will wish I had just saved that little extra and gotten the Tumalt.....the model up.....) I still have to look arounds and learn abit more about horizontal mounting (I know there is a formula to find out if a driver is good for it....just gotta find it again!) because if I got this driver I would want to finnaly do the tube sub I have always wanted to make!

In a ported enclosure of 600L in size (just a number I pulled from my @ss, because its probably as big as I can fit in any room) and ported to something like 14hz, the sub is flat to 15hz at 118db!!!!!! (with no room gain) now here are some specs that make me very happy indeed! (although I would take a few Db's off that figure because I will never be as gain with the volume knob on the behringer again!) I dont really know of too many other subs that have an Fs of 14hz or lower! I also really like the idea of being able to put heaps of medium (or a few huge) ports in the top of the cylinder because of its long shape. (actually I just remembered the sub would probably lose some more SPL from being horizontally mounted, so its more like 115db@15hz)

My old man still hasnt given up his refund escapade o refunding the sub....but he will learn the pain of refunds in the audio world soon enough and give up hope..............then darkside......you shall have your photos [6]

PS: Dr Who, If the Adire sub ends up being a pipe dream I will most certainly look into your suggestion!!!

[DrWho]

lol Brenny, you're crazy [H]

For what it's worth, the Fs of the driver doesn't tell you very much about how low it will go. The Qts is more important...but there are a ton of factors involved. That's why we have all of the T/S parameters (not just Fs) []

Btw, do you know for a fact that you can get the Adire Audio Maelstrom? I would be hesitant going the route of Adire, especially in light of all the problems they've been having lately. For someone that is going to run his system to the extreme, I think I would prefer something a bit more reliable...

As far as telling if something is down-firing or not, check out this link:
http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/downfire.html

What speaker manufacturers do you have available over yonder? Surely there's gotta be something local that's not gonna break the bank. How bad would shipping really be from America? I bet I could get you hooked up with some Ascendant Audio drivers - they're very proud of how indestructible their drivers are [] (not to say that you can't break them, but they can certainly take a beating).

[darkside]

Few, the sub I just finished for the mustang is up-firingm, but luckily the sag is only about 3.5%

Brenny-I
have patience, trust me, I've been waiting since September for a
response to an Email I sent to Earthquake about my Supernova!!! Still
waiting... And I have no problems waiting for the pics of the VC, just
good luck to you father...[]

[brennyE]

sadly I still do not know if I can get the Maelstrom, because I am still waiting for an email back! I will be pretty screwed (probably not entirely) if I can not get the maelstrom because in truth, all that you can buy over here is (DIY wise)..... Eminince,some other PA brand (forgot the name it sucks so much) Adire Audio, Jaycar response speakers, some low grade peerless drivers...........and wait for it...........an absalute ton of shitty car audio speakers!!(like 10,000,000 brands!) so if any one can add to this list, you are more than welcome! Ah and I have also heard about some people that are unhappy with adire.....what gives?

Ah to live in the USA! (you have TC!)

[CECAA850]

I have no first hand knowledge, but I have read several threads about poor service, e x t e n d e d repair times and an overall lack of communication on Adires part. Caveat emptor.

[darkside]

Sure we may have TC Sounds, but it aint cheap by a long stretch. If

Kicker stuff is available to you, I'd look into that. Their products

are extremely affordable and are very good, especially for the price. I

just finished a sealed Comp 12 (1.25 cu ft tuned to about 60 hz[])

for a car and boy does it BUMP[Y]. I might stuff it eventually. How do

you model that in WinISD?

[DrWho]

I might stuff it eventually. How do
you model that in WinISD?

See page one of this thread

[darkside]

Hey Brenny, would consider the EP1500 a good sub amp? I'm looking into

PA amps for subwoofer duty but am still not sure of a good one under

$300 (American)

[brennyE]

I consider the EP1500 a great sub woofer amp......but that's just my opinion! yours may differ. Instead of going on about what is great about the amplifier, I will tell you whats not so great (the things you wont read about on the website and most reviews) OK here goes.......

-The fan noise is pretty loud (as you may have guessed) as it uses a 2 fan ventilation system that sucks air through the tunneled heat sinks. This wont be a problem if you are in a big room and aren't sitting to close to the amp, but if you are you might have to consider modifying the fan (I am going to put a switch system in place needing a 2 way flick switch and a 100ohm 10W resistor, to turn the fan to low or high)

-When in bridged mono mode (which I am guessing you would use also) and running a low impedance load, like 4 ohms (the minimum the amp can run safely in bridged mono mode) you can run out of power very suddenly, with the smallest change in the bass line. Then all the sudden all the red lights light up....and that brings me to my next point......

-HARD CORE CLIPPING!!! When this baby clips, its not nice, friendly, or soft and silky. It can go from pushing out beautiful low, loud bass notes, then the bass line drops a few hertz......gets a bit faster.......then before you know it.....BAM!!! your sub woofer is on fire! It's not very fun when you'r subwoofer goes up in smoke, but in the end it is all up to your control! But on the bright side......none of this problem and the above problem will probably apply to anyone but me! I swear even if I had a 100,000,000WRMS amplifier I would push it into clipping rofl! so only if you are abit pushy with the volume knob will you run into this problem! (not to worry though before this amp runs outta puff, it drives very very hard!)

-I can imagine the signal lights would begin to annoy, if the amplifier was being used in a dark home cinema etc, as they continuously flash to the bass line! cool at first! gets old quick!

Ok now after all the negatives I now have to say the positives outweigh them all by a long shot! It is a very solid, durable, powerful and reliable amp, packed full of features, and all of this for next to no money. So it all comes down to how loud you wanna play your sub........If you are like me I would recommend the bigger model the EP2500 which has more output power (by alot!) and only costs a small fraction more. If I could do it again I would get the EP2500, but I am sure as hell not unhappy with the EP1500!

Hope that gives you some good insight, as I hate reading through reviews that contain all good things and no bad......It's almost like the person who brought the product is trying to make themselves feel good about the purchase, and not give an honest evaluation!

[DrWho]

Hey Brenny, I wonder how much of your clipping issues were the result of the driver you were using. Some subs when driven hard will result in the voice coil leaving the magnetic gap. This in turn presents a short circuit to the amplifier (yikes). Might explain why your driver blew apart too. Did you have the 30Hz HPF filter engaged on the amp?

[darkside]

Hmm, thanks Brenny. I'm looking towards the Audiopipe APA 2500 since
it can push 750w rms at 8 ohms, but it has no low pass crossover that I
know of and I do not know of an inductor that can handle that much
power without becoming a puddle of copper[:S]

I also am under the assumption your dad is still trying for that refund eh?

[DrWho]

Hmm, thanks Brenny. I'm looking towards the Audiopipe APA 2500 since

it can push 750w rms at 8 ohms, but it has no low pass crossover that I

know of and I do not know of an inductor that can handle that much

power without becoming a puddle of copper[:S]

I also am under the assumption your dad is still trying for that refund eh?

lol - the inductor gets much much smaller if you add it to the input side of the amplifier instead of the output []

[darkside]

OH, well that should work wonderfully shouldn't it? Never thought of that.