jocko_nc Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 Another good consideration.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocko_nc Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 Here it is, then: I can put these angle blocks in the vent from 3/4 stock. Not terribly easy on the table saw, but I think I can manage with the proper jig. It looks a little odd, but would kill the uniform vertical length. Also, they will allow me to put a matching grille over the vents. No need to finish the inside!!! The correct spacing between the tweeter and the mid (basically touching!) means the pair need to go low on the front baffle. I like it. Hope it sounds o.k. Plan to cut lumber this weekend... jocko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocko_nc Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 If anyone wants the .dwg file to mess with, I can send it out. Send a message. jocko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efzauner Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Maybe you already considered this, and honest I did not sweat all of the details, but are your maximum front dimensions 12x24? if so have you considered really trying to squeeze in a front mount like this by front mounting the woofers are rear mounting the k700 or vice versa. That way you can reduce the overlap of the flanges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocko_nc Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 You have to allow 3/4" on all dimensions for material wall thickness. Also, I would keep some minimum baffle material between the cutouts and the sides. Call it 3/4" also. The woofers mounted "out" and the horns mounted "in", would be your best bet. Still, my drawing shows the mid flange extends into the woofers. That mid horn is huge, much bigger than the cutout. 11.00 x 26.00 might do it. 11.00 x 28 would be great. jocko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 I was thinking more like the EAW design, but both are going to be just as hard to cut: The geometry for calculating the change in length is pretty easy though. You just need to calculate the width that it needs to be at the start and end, and then use the pythagorean theorem to determine how long it should be. This will force it to fit at a certain angle though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Btw, you can mount the driver with the flange all the way to the edge. Even if it means screwing the driver into the side of the wall behind the baffle. Just pre drill and use a wood screw in those areas. Technically, you only need to mount the drivers in 4 spots, not 8...they double up to ensure the speaker survives shipping with the wood screws. If you use T-Nuts, it's much less of a concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocko_nc Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 I'll do a side projection... I can get a recent taper to it. However, it makes construction very difficult. I have to cut the top and bottom panels off where the main chamber stops, and add the the vents as independent "clamshells" on either side. There is not room inside the existing vent to add a tapered sub-panel, only .688" space exists between the top and bottom panels and the woofer. The clamshells are difficult to attach and create several complex plywood edges that would have to be veneered or covered. Attempting compound angles throughout the cabinet would be unwise. I think I'll go with the lengthwise inserts, if they matter. jocko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 I don't think the lengthwise inserts matter - if nothing else, that can be added later. Btw, how are you going to get the woofers installed after you build the cabinet? You might need to go with a rear mount afterall... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocko_nc Posted January 24, 2007 Author Share Posted January 24, 2007 True, thought of that last night. I would change how the vent sides attach to the top and bottom panels. They would have to be screwed in place, removable, with screws exposed. They would be facing back, which is good. Those peices could easilt be edge-veneered. I would use the nicer black-oxide screws from PartsExpress. Possibly finish washers. jocko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscarsear Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 Why not just use the mid-range and tweeter for the center and get a subwoofer to fill in the lower fequencies not produced by the flanking Heresy's? You could put the sub anywhere and keep your center channel smaller. I use a center channel between Khorns without any base at all. The Khorns provide more than enough base for the playback? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 There is a lot of information (even vocals) in the 80-600Hz range that is going to be lost by such an approach. Also, the higher up in frequency you cross to a subwoofer, the more localizeable the sub becomes...it sounds very wierd to have the fundamentals of human speech coming from one side of the room and then the sibilance and harmonics coming from the center. A perfect example of how this would sound would be the Bose Acoustimass system...or any other small satellite/subwoofer configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocko_nc Posted January 24, 2007 Author Share Posted January 24, 2007 LOL. I already have two of 'em, underneath the mains. That's beside the point, this endeavour is about more and better... Good question. Wouldn't the lack of a current path and the L and R (inductance and resistance) characteristics of the the woofer itself cause a problem for the balancing network? Wouldn't I have to add a corresponding load to the network in order to get the remaining drivers to operate as normal? jocko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocko_nc Posted January 24, 2007 Author Share Posted January 24, 2007 This is the room in question... The Heresys are on each shelf, the subs beneath them. The center space in the cabinet is all the room I have to play with for a center channel. The wall units are essentially built-ins, but I plan to create a Wall of Stereo, much of it vintage. Always mindful of the wife... The subs are Dayton Reference 10.00 with 240 watt internal amps. The mains are run from an Adcom 545II. I have a large space to fill, nonetheless, these guys crank quite nicely. Its a WIP. Don't even mention rears. Oh well. jocko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocko_nc Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 The Parts Express box just arrived... Sweet! jocko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jascott Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 Any updates to this? I am researching building a Hersey I center to match a pair of 84 Hersey Is I picked up off of eBay. I plan to find and use the same mid horn the Hersey's are using, and will replace the tweeters in all three w/ ct125's. I'll also update the crossovers from the original 84 units. I'll probably use two 8" drivers to replace the K22 and will put all of this in a sealed enclosure no more than 10" tall. The width and depth are not really an issue - within reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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