New wiring for my Cornwalls?

[The Matching Mole]

My Cornwalls are currently wired with DNM Reson single-core copper wires. I also have DNM Reson speaker cable that goes straight to the crossovers from my amps. I currently have the urge to replace this wire, as I have ground a bit tired of the DNM's very laid back sound. I have replaced DNM Reson interconnects with Zu Oxyfuels and am quite happy with the improvement.

I've been considering some Anti-Cable speaker wire for amp to crossover, but what about the internal wiring? What are you folks using? Silver or copper?

[Daddy Dee]

mine is just stock.

interesting idea, though to roll flavors through.

are the zu's silver? What''s your take on the difference in sound.

[mas]

Wouldn't it just be easier to add inductors and/or capacitors to vary the reactance?

[IndyKlipschFan]

Do people pull out wiring and do crazy stuff to McIntosh Pre/ and their Amps too?

I wonder sometimes at what point do you not make it a Klipsch voiced speaker sound anymore?

Just a thought? I know people change tubes... But a lot of people get speakers and immediately change this and change that? Or read something on the net and feel obligated to do so? Even before they really listen to what they have for some time?

Just a thought, not knocking your changes efhjr

[mas]

Do people pull out wiring and do crazy stuff to McIntosh Pre/ and their Amps too?

It is simply an easy tweek that most are not too intimidated to try...

The problem I have is that it is a solution in search of a problem, instead of identifying an quantifying a real problem and then developing a verifiable method to address it.

[The Matching Mole]

The Zu Oxyfuels are copper (you can get the details here: http://www.zuaudio.com/oxyfuel.asp). I found them more open than the DNMs, with better resolution and tighter highs and lows. I've been buying them from Zu off of eBay for about $40 a pair, and that's a price that can't be beat. And their connectors work very well with my Juicymusic components.

[IndyKlipschFan]

Mas, do you agree most of this is true then?

The trend towards horrible sounding, cheaply made
audio equipment has virtually displaced quality sound. Today, most
systems use thin plastic speaker cabinets, with cheap drivers. Most of
these systems channel all mid bass to a small five inch Chinese driver
that creates more distortion than music. All of this is underpowered by
cheap electronics that creates screechy sounding highs and distorted
mid bass while leaving off any bass what-so-ever.

The greatest loudspeaker designer I know of ( Taken from the norh website here, not my thoughts.) is
Richard Shahinian. What I believe and what I do, is based on what I
have learned from him. I will never forget that he once showed me
something that amazed me. Mr. Shahinian told me that the way to great
sound was by focusing on the midrange. He told me that he has tried for
years to produce the ultimate midrange but that no driver manufacturer
would work with him to achieve this goal. (Maybe he should of met ROY or worked for Klipsch?)

He then showed me a driver that he had. He put the
speaker on a table, hooked up some leads and the sound was great. Even
though there was no cabinet, the sound was musical. We all know how
most drivers sound when you hook up wires -- tinny and shrill.

There are many challenges to creating great sounding
audio. All of us with portable music players know that two small
drivers can sound wonderful. After all, that is all we have connected
to our players. We are listening to two small full range drivers -- no
crossovers. Why can't we just achieve the same thing with two
loudspeakers giving us the ability to move around without having
headphones and being able to share music with others?

The reason is that when we use earphones, we only
have to move a small amount of air. However, trying to fill a room
requires us to move much more air. There is of course the issue of the
room itself but for now, we will just focus on the fact that it takes
much more energy to move enough air to create the sound in a room than
to move enough ear with the drivers pressed directly to our ears.

We all know that large woofers can move more air but
there are problems here. A large woofer is heavy so it takes a lot of
energy and the more mass you have, the more in motion it tends to have
so it looses control. Also, the larger a driver is, the more pressure
is put on the surface which of course creates more resistance. The
larger are is also less rigid meaning that the driver tends to flex.

A great loudspeaker moves air like a piston. Most
people assume surface vibrations create sound. What they do not realize
is that a driver should not have any surface vibrations and should act
like a piston.

If this were not enough of a problem, the next big
problem is to create full range sound. Many years ago, most
loudspeakers were three way loudspeakers. They had a woofer, tweeter
and midrange. More modern loudspeakers use a combination of woofer and
tweeter with the midrange filled in at the middle. No matter how good
the crossover is, the point where the sound comes together is not
seamless. First of all, there is a shift between current and voltage
caused by the crossover components. Then you have to deal with the
distance of the tweeter and woofer from one another. If this were not
enough, a tweeter is generally more efficient than the woofer so the
tweeter output has to be reduced to match the woofer.

Many audio companies talk about crossovers as if
they somehow do something magical and improve the sound of the drivers.
The reality is that all crossover harm the music but a well designed
crossover does minimal damage. If you get deep into audiophile
literature, you will read how a capacitor made from one material will
improve the sound over a capacitor made from a different material. The
truth is that the better capacitor does less damage.

Most of this makes sense to me Mas.. The problem is exactly what you said, "To develop a verifiable method to address it." There is so much snake oil out there, it takes a lot of real learning and some knowledge of the application at hand to know what to do. BTW, I am not 100% inept. My light inside the Amp I have (The Sunfire 200 x 7 ) went out. Rather than send it back, I called Sunfire they sent me some bulbs. I opened it up, got out the soldering iron, and replaced the defective bulb. Closed it back up and it now works. So see, I am not hopeless. LOL Saved me who knows what in time and cost of something that took me all of maybe 20 min tops. (I know, it would have taken you 5..LOL) My dad and I did a lot of electronics stuff as a kid with ham radio and some kit electronics stuff for kids.

Anyhow, your thoughts? I recognise you and shawn (sfogg) can do circles knowledge wise around me and most of the people on here.

[IB Slammin]

My Cornwalls are currently wired with DNM Reson single-core copper wires. I also have DNM Reson speaker cable that goes straight to the crossovers from my amps. I currently have the urge to replace this wire, as I have ground a bit tired of the DNM's very laid back sound. I have replaced DNM Reson interconnects with Zu Oxyfuels and am quite happy with the improvement. I've been considering some Anti-Cable speaker wire for amp to crossover, but what about the internal wiring? What are you folks using? Silver or copper?

efhjr,

I guess that I have done my share of Cornwall mods, wire from network to drivers included. My conclusion was that I could use a coat-hanger, and my ear wouldn't hear a difference. Some/many might disagree.

tc

[IndyKlipschFan]

IB..Did you use the la scala's top mid and tweet with the cornwall bottom?

I want to try that this summer...

[IB Slammin]

IB..Did you use the la scala's top mid and tweet with the cornwall bottom?

I want to try that this summer...

Yes sir.

Tryed the .......K400/K55/K77......511b/K55/K77.....511b/902/K77.....511b/902/CT125......before settling in with.....511b/902/2404.

All bested the K600/K55

Have fun this summer!

tc