LarryC
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Posts posted by LarryC
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On 5/12/2017 at 3:14 PM, AHall said:
They sounded a little flat in my house hooked to the Yamaha. So I ordered some bob crites ct120 tweeters, a55g mid drivers, and new type A crossovers. I also sealed them to the wall with pipe insulation. I still didn't get the desired sound I was looking for so I just ordered a bob Latino st70 tube amp kit. I'm sure that will help fulfill the missing sound from the demo. I'll likely pull the Crites mids and tweeters back out and listen to them the way PWK intended me to for a while.
I intend on converting my new Frankenstein decorators to a "B" cabinet with a riser. Also putting an exotic veneer on them. And more than likely closing in the backs like a 60th and 70th anniversary model. Luckily the finish job was done poorly enough that I think everything they added will peel right off. It currently is fitting quite loose. Which is a good thing to not have the original cabinet damaged by removal.
The tube amp sounds like a good idea (Yamaha has sounded a little flat to me, too). I, too, would try the old drivers for comparison.
Getting the tops and risers correct is harder than it looks -- PWK struck gold (in my opinion) with the proportions, dimensions, and variable thicknesses of the layers in the top hat, and everyone else's just don't look quite right compared with the original. Hopefully you can locate a true Klipsch finely veneered "B" style down the road. Keep your eyes on Craigslist, especially from West Coast cities. Colo too, maybe.
For more info on how the top hats were put together in the B-syle's, scroll down for the pics in this interesting thread:
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6 hours ago, willland said:
Though I do believe you heard what you heard with the 37's(3--7" woofers), it is perplexing(to me) all the same. The reason I am making these comments is because I have owned and enjoyed immensely my pair of RF-63's(3--6.5" woofers) from the top of the scale to their bottom frequencies, though adding subwoofers has taken them to the next level. In just true stereo playback(no sub), the 63's bass response is authoritative as well as punchy and fast, with about the sweetest midrange I have ever heard in person from 2-way speakers. I do though think these factors are in play partly because of the fine Acurus A200 amp I am using with it's neutrality and copious bass drive capabilities.
Were the 37's also driven by the Aragon?
Bill
I am a demanding listener, and classical music is particularly demanding in my book. I was comparing the 38's-plus-sub on Aragon with the 37's under circumstances that I don't recall. (As you can tell, I have a fair amount of confidence in my audio memory and judgement.) "The next level" describes what I heard from the 38's-plus-sub.
The RF series is not as much my cup of tea, are different from what I usually prefer for classical.
I haven't heard Acurus, but your comment is similar to my reaction to good vs. so-so electronics on Klipsch.
I'm not sure you and I are listening to the same kind of music in the same way, e.g., punchy and fast, which is just one criterion of several that I apply. That can be an issue in comparing different peoples' reactions to different speakers, etc.
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Do you have a Palladium sub to team up with the 37F? When I played around in Indy several years ago with 37's, 38's with subs, and 39's, I concluded that:
- The 37's were not terribly adequate and I wasn't interested.
- The 38's w/sub were wonderful, were very satisfying in classical music because the bass was so ideal. In particular, I could easily and clearly hear the string basses under the cellos in the Dvorak New World. Even my K-horns don't do that.
- The larger 39's w/o a sub were a little boomy, but not as nearly as nice bass-wise, as the 38's w/sub.
The above reactions were predicated on using the superior Aragon electronics that Klipsch had at that time. Their later (and lesser) Asian-based pre-pro was greatly inferior and did not leave me with the same inspired feeling. (It wasn't Onkyo, but some Asian brand that I think was made by Onkyo.) I wouldn't have been interested in the same speakers with that mediocre pre-pro!
The Palladium sub was beautifully engineered to complement the F line. I didn't hear or compare with any other subs.
The 38's with the Palladium sub provided much better classical bass than the larger 39's without.
Those subs are really big! Obviously, careful listening to your choices is important. But I don't blame you for being dissatisfied with the 37's.
I don't mean to suggest that I think a sub will solve your 37 problem, or that the Forte III's would benefit much from adding a sub. I am strictly praising the 38's and the Palladium sub.
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I read somewhere that a very quiet auditorium would be 25 dB, so 35 dB would be exceptionally quiet in many household rooms. I suspect that an exceptional signal-to-noise ratio would be necessary to perceive recorded music as live.
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Thanks, Khorn -- great picture! It explains a lot!
I'll send the updated thread to the restorer. I had no idea how they did that.
Larry
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An remember, we love pictures!
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Hi Gil,
Please don't ship anything to me, prized as much as it is. I have way top much stuff now. Thanks for asking!
Larry
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Never fear, John. Did you ever get a stereo pair of whatever you were looking for, was it a Shorthorn?
Larry
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That's still gotta be one terrific-sounding speaker with a phenomenal midrange! SAHF and a 15WK
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I thought the LS II used the more more highly evolved AL-4/5 X-over? I suspect that's quite a different sound from earlier X-overs.
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On 4/15/2017 at 5:05 PM, USNRET said:
Soo other than tuners incorporated in receivers and AVRs I have experienced the Onkyo T-9090, a Sony XRD F1HD and a Sansui TU- (something, donated to work).
I am looking at new Magnum-Dynalab MD 90 FM Tuner $1250, the MD 90T tube version $1595 and used Rotel - RT-1084 $500 with some cap mods and from radioxtuners.
I live in a radio unfriendly environment. FM signals were not receivable until I got the Sony stock and the Sansui modded by radiox.
I just seems that a tube version of the Dynalab wouldn't do squat for reception strength and just add another layer of "what tube is making noise" in the chain.Thoughts?
Sorry to be late with this -- doing the tube mod on my M-D tuner didn't increase the range or sensitivity as far as I could tell, but it made the sound less hard, a little more "tubey," which is a good thing IMO, and ever so slightly less veiled and closer to the real thing.
I had a Yamaha tuner for many years, which really pulled in stations great, but was flat and hard in sound. That's why I went to M-D [edited:] which had much more bloom and dimensionality.
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Thanks KornuK -- Really helpful!
NOW: where are the "few more screws to separate the bottom panels of the top hat"? I think that's what I've bin looking for, because a previous restorer apparently soaked the top hat in mineral spirits, and the new one may want to separate those bottom panels. A couple other forum members in this thread apparently have done thet. I and the new restorer may need to know how to do it.
Larry
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15 hours ago, Don Richard said:
They are screwed to the bass bin from the top, It's been a while but there are 4 screws, IIRC. Look inside the top hat for the screws that hold the tops down.
I finished a decorator model and used wing nuts to secure my top hats.
I believe that just fastens the top hat of the B-style as a complete unit to the bass bin. My interpretation of what others have said is that the top hat of the B-style like mine is made up of 3 or 4 veneered slabs or layers, tightly bolted and/or screwed together, to form the in- and-out steps of the top hat as a tight unit as seen from the front, sides, and rear. The C-style looks much simpler, without the in-and-out steps. Gary's is a C-style, and I suspect dtr20's is, too. Those tops look like they are not detachable, hence the "ton of screws."
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That's nice, but it ain't close to a 255A. Where are the EL-34s?
You may be generalizing from a single, possibly atypical, example
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Thanks, Don and everyone. My refinisher will probably be able to figure it out, with the comments made so far.
Larry
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Hi -- can anyone help me on this -- I have an expert restorer/refinisher who is willing to refinish my 1962 mahogany lacquer B-style K-horns. These are the ones I almost ruined by applying Murphy's Wood Soap a few years ago. He's going to do a lot of cleaning and sanding, and
I understand that this is best done on the tops by disassembling the top hats. Can anyone send me a diagram of how they come apart? Any special tips on how to do it and pitfalls to avoid?
THANKS!
LarryC
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None of the pics that come up by Googling Langevin amps looks at all like the 255, including the physical or tube layout and selection (no El-34's for example). I know nichts about such things, but simple rebranding looks to be out of the question.
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I believe they are the Model 245 preamp and 255 35-watt (or so) mono amplifiers. Maybe the Model 248 stereo pre -- it was made up of a pair of 245 mono pre's and a central control unit and volume control. Wow, that's ancient stuff! I had a mono 255, and it sounded great on a Shorthorn!.
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Remarkable! the multiple pieces of the top hat aren't glued?!? So, not even the collar is glued, only bolted or screwed? I must say, that's the way it looks.
So -- how much additional work time is involved in separating into the various pieces? How many pieces are there per side --4, 5, 6, or 7? Would it save any time to glue them together, or does it SAVE time to take the top hats all apart?
This is really helpful, but could someone PM me who willing to walk me and maybe the restoration specialist through the process. You can PM me you phone no., and I'll do the same.
Thanks!
Larry
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Rick, what all has to come apart? Home plate off, of course, but do you have to remove the collar? Side panels off? It's almost like where do you stop? These restorers are good, but they've probably never seen anything like this!
Thanks!
- Larry
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I'm wrestling with that myself. A couple of woodworkers I've talked to speak of "refinishing," which seems to involve light sanding. Same thing?
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On 3/15/2017 at 7:22 PM, Deang said:
You can pick up a used Oppo 93 for around $300 - it'll run rings around that old Sony.
If the Oppo 93 does that we;ll, then the newer model model 203 should exceed even that. This is a brand and model that gets raves even from dealerships that don't sell it.
The forthcoming model 205, due out in a couple of months but costing over $1,000, is supposed to be a large step up from there.
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What's the badging (brand, model) on the back of the woofers? The orange surround looks Klipsch-ish, maybe like the SP12B from the "K-Ortho-12" driver/crossover combo.
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Bought all of mine used, the first one a single Model T around 1960. The current K-horns around 1982 as the third owner. Plenty of upgrades, however.
KHorns and a room, new chapter.
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I may have missed it -- what is the width of the end of the room where the K's would go? IOW, how far apart will they be?