milton10

Happy Holidays everyone! I would like to gather some opinions on optimum amplifier power for my HT setup. I currently run 5 Heresy's through an Outlaw 1050 (60 wpc) along with a Sunfire Super Jr. sub. The sound is quite crisp and clean, but am wondering if I will gain much if I beefed up the power somewhat. I don't want ear splitting loudness (I listen to most of my movies in the 70 db range), but am looking for more depth and reserve. My room is about 14x14 and is a tad bit on the bright side. I am thinking of something in the 200 wpc range x 5 - perhaps with some older Carver amps. Any ideas on what would be optimal? Would I notice any difference in sound? Thanks! Milton

The HDMI didn't cause the artifacts. Your other equipment does that. The HDMI simply made the weaknesses of your other equipment more obvious. You can use your display settings to deal with them. In my case, the OPPO DVD player only upscales the image from 480 to 720 if you are using DVI output which requires me to use a DVI-HDMI cable into my HDTV. I've got some component cables. I suppose I could A-B them with the HDMI-DVI connection and see how much improvement I am getting from the upscaling & digital cables compared to good old fashioned component output. Jeff, I am aware that it is my equipment and not the HDMI. I have tried every possible display setting change to deal with it, but the results were still not acceptable. Switching back to component solved it. In fact the component hookups looked vastly superior to any HDMI setup combination that I could come up with. I read somewhere that some televisions convert the HDMI digital signal back to analog as soon as it enters the set. I don't know if this caused the problem, but would suspect that it may. Has anyone else heard of this?

I tried the HDMI input from my Denon DVD-1920 to my Samsung picture tube TV. The results were horrible. I had Macrovision artifacts all over the screen and noise around objects and letters. I switched back to my components and will only consider HDMI if I go with a LCD/Plasma/DLP in the future. Milton

Has anyone compaired the Sunfire Super Junior to any of the big 15" Klipsch subs? Am I missing anything? I have a small HT area and the Sunfire gets down to 23 Hz cleanly. Thanks

I just watched my Dolphins lose to the New England Patroits. It was a good exciting game. Too bad they lost.

RE: "Just go to wal-mart and get some Grippers,,,," I was thinking this as well, anyone have experience with these?

TheEAR, I don't know where to get the double sided tape, but would industrial strength velcro work? Or will that give too much? I was thinking of placing a large strip on all four corners of the sub. Milton

I have a Sunfire Super Junior that has spikes on the bottom. While the spikes work very well with carpet, they tend to rattle on the hard wood floor. Should I remove the spikes and use rubber pads? I have tried it, but the sub seems to moooove with extended play. Any ideas getting the most from my sub? Thanks....

I just ran across a Klipsch SW-15 at a Pawn Shop for $329.95. I noticed that there is a small tear in the rear woofer cone about 1" long, but it looks like it can be fixed. The clerk said that she would drop the price to $240.00 due to the tear. The power cord is also not present, all that is there is an inverted plug that looks similar to the plug in the back of computers. The clerk told me that the main power cord has been misplaced, but she assured me that the unit has been fully tested and has a 30 day guarantee. Does anyone know the value of these units? Would this be a good deal if I can find the power cord? Thanks! Milton

Scotterdog, I have checked out both the 1920 and the 1720. It seems that the only difference between the two is that the 1920 will play SACD and DVD Audio. Are these features worth the extra $$? Thanks, Milton

My Cambridge Audio DVD-300 has bitten the dust [] I tried to get warranty work done, but I cannot find the receipt, and the dealer will not send me a copy of it. So I may consider getting a new DVD player. I want something that will sound nice in 2 channel as well as HT (which is why I like the DVD-300 so much). I would like something that is on par with the current level of quality of the rest of my system & am not sure if I should consider DVD Audio or SACD. Since I have not even begun to look for a replacement, I have no idea how much the price range would be for a worthy DVD player. Any imput would be appreciated. My current system is: Outlaw Audio 1050, Samsung 26" HDTV Television, 5 Klipsch Heresys with upgraded crossovers (Kimber caps & 14 gauge Coils), Sunfire Super Junior Subwoofer Thanks for your imput!

I just found out the problem with jagged highs were due to my rear speakers (this is a HT setup), not my crossover capacitors. Up until last week, I have been running KG-1's as rears. Now I have replaced them with circa 1979 Heresy's and Shazam, the problem has disappeared. It seems that the KG-1's are not as smooth and tend to beam the rear channel information even though they sound very close to the Heresy's with white or pink noise tests AND have been properly set up with a Sound Level Meter. For some reason, the rears sound ever so slightly different from the Fronts/Center and really stand out. As soon as I added the Heresy's as rears the problem was solved. Now I have seamless transitions from front to back and soundtracks seem to "float" in the room rather than sound like its coming from 5 different speakers. The result is NOT subtle - even my other half (whom has lead ears) could hear the difference clearly. At any rate, I did order new Kimber caps for my system (after all the new rears need to have their caps upgraded) however, I did order them for all 5 speakers. I 86th the idea of the Audiocaps and went with all Kimbers to avoid pushing the voicing any more forward. To anyone wondering if 5 identical speakers will make a difference in HT sound, I can attest to the MAJOR difference in smoothness and soundstage. I say this because I think that more often than not, rear speakers in an HT setup are neglected since there is not as much soundtrack and dialog passes through them - which is a mistake. I will post the results when I have upgraded all my caps to the Kimbers. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread! Milton

I have thought of Auricaps & Kimbers, but they are polyproplyne, not film & foil types. When you say that Auricaps are "the real McCoy's," are you saying that they would be the best crossover caps, regardless of what type they are? The reason I am asking is that although my Heresy's sound crisp, they could use some smoothing out in sound.

Which is better, bypassing polypropolyne caps with high quality film and foils (with .1uf values), or just using film & foils in a crossover (cost NOT a consideration)? I am presently using Northcreek Zen capacitors in my Heresys, and am either going to bypass them with film & foil bypass caps or get a whole new set of AudiocapThetas (which are film & foil). Will there be a noticable difference between either option? Thanks in advance for your answers!

I have now changed back to the original "C" configuration, and the sound is much more balanced. I called Klipsch today to see if they had any knowledge of the K-22-E woofer. It is a rare bird! In fact, they were mostly used in the 60's, so according to Steve at Klipsch, my woofer was one of the last to leave their factory (remember my Heresy is circa '74). The reason the "C" network is needed for this speaker is to have the woofer "keep up" with the efficiency of the squaker and tweeter. Now when I run pink noise or white noise through them, they sound almost identical to my main pair with the type "E" networks. Now that I know what I am listening for, when I used the wrong crossover the low end of the pink/white noise was noticably more thin. Now, with the correct network, is sounds very, very close to the others. Again, thanks for all the help! My HT system really appreciates it!

I just measured my woofer. It is measuring 10.7 ohms - so I guess that it is closer to a 16 ohm woofer. I am going to get a 1uf cap tomorrow to change the crossover back to its original configuration. Thanks for all the coaching!

Malcolm, So is my Eminence woofer an 8 ohm or 16 ohm version? If it is an 8 ohm version, why was it paired with a type C crossover network? Or should I assume that it is 16 ohms? I just want to get the right crossover back in place. Thanks! Milton

closeup of the badge on the back.

The back.....

My woofers are labeled K-22-E. I have attached pictures of them - front and back.

Thanks for the sketch. It is really helpful. I'm curious, does the red/orange surround around the woofer mean anything?

No, I have no red surround around the woofer. It looks just like my other pair with gray surrounds. However, it is different from the others as it is an alnico woofer. I remember that the autoformer taps were different and that it used 1uf and a 2uf caps. I want to change the configuration back. Any info or schematic would be appreciated. Milton

I have a single circa '74 Heresy that I am using as a center channel in my all Heresy HT system (due to its all alnico qualitys). I swithched the crossover caps to match the type "E" crossover of my other Heresy's and although the center sounds nice, it sounds slightly different from the sides/rears. Should I change the configuration back to the original Type "C" crossover? Does anyone have a schematic? I don't remember the configuration of it. Thanks, Milton

Does anyone know how much Klipch KT-LCR speakers are worth? Thanks. Milton

I have a Harmon Kardon 430 & 730 that I would like to refurb. I have the service manual for both units, but would like to get any "real life" advice to anyone who has done something like this. The 430 works perfectly, but the 730 keeps blowing the "fuse type" lights on the dial. Any advice appreciated. Milton