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Posts posted by Deang
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What is the general condition of them? In nice condition they are still demanding a premium. I see them regularly go for $2500 - $3000.
Tweeter diaphragms are inexpensive.
Dead squawker could certainly be a bad connection. Loosen and retighten all of the screws on the terminal strips.
AL-3 would be the best network for that driver complement. Least expensive route would be to find some on eBay and recap them. I build new with OEM parts. Cost is $645.00 a pair.
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You have access to their real time inventory?
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On 12/24/2023 at 8:51 PM, delta88343 said:
Unfortunately however, Klipsch Heritage speakers are more sensitive to this room effect than dome radiators with a wider dispersion patten.
You have it backwards.
Horns have controlled directivity.
I think they’re brighter because that’s how they’re voiced. Live music doesn’t sound “buttery smooth”, in fact, most live music is fairly bright and a little harsh (a little).
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@ToddRF75 I thought I had provided you with a fairly detailed explanation on the other forum. There really isn’t much else to say about them.
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Those are cool. Those amps are nice too.
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They are identical with the exception of the resistors in the low pass, where the AK-4 has two 6 ohm resistors in parallel and the AK-5 has one.
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1 hour ago, Xtomasx said:
Sound is still there in the tweeter, just very faint.
That’s because there is a 100 ohm resistor in parallel with the polyswitch. When the polyswitch tripped, the signal was rerouted through the resistor. That you can hear sound through it means you didn’t blow a diaphragm.
It’s the correct part. You’ll be fine. I would use clips for heat sinks when you solder the polyswitch in.
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WHERE ARE YOU I CAN’T SEE YOU THROUGH THE FLAMES.
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7 hours ago, OO1 said:
there is no need to modify the HII crossover to add a bandpass filter , the bandpass filter is separate from the H II crossover
Not sure what are you talking about.You can’t use the Ti diaphragms or use the Ti drivers without modifying the network. The parts go in between the autoformer and driver. Klipsch doesn’t sell the filter section separately.
Since it a non Klipsch mod, the Klipsch alternative is the Heresy III upgrade kit - which is really the correct way to do it.
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@OO1 How does that alleviate having to add a bandpass filter?
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3 hours ago, philco90 said:
what i am looking for is the two way system i have a univeristy for the horn and 15 inch my gusse is from about 1950 to 1951
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Those are nice.
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Never thought I’d see the day where you would admit to being an amateur. Also, no one wants to hear you sing, lol.
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@JEM Performance Jim from JEM Performance can repair your tweeter. You can also order the part from Klipsch and do it yourself if you feel brave.
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What tweeter and midrange did he use?
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That will work fine. They really only need to be within a foot of the corners.
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@TonyTrex57 Hi Tony, what kind of help are looking for?
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The first picture is a 2uF measured using 1kHz. The second picture is the same can measured at 100kHz.
This particular can is also sweating, with a light film on the outside that you can feel and smell.
A new 2uF Tecate measures .42 - .45
It’s just my opinion, but I think this part is nearing the end of its life cycle.
Some are fine for use while others are not. While you don’t have to replace them, the network will be back in spec, and the speakers will sound better if you do.
I don’t sell capacitor kits. Please contact JEM if this is something that interests you.
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@ronajon I use 1kHz for the smaller values and 120Hz anything above 4uF. The spec sheet for the capacitors Klipsch uses states 1kHz for their DF spec.
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Using the chart, one can see why measuring at 100kHz doesn’t make much sense for capacitors used in loudspeaker networks.
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Wtb klipsch k400 horns
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
Welp, I guess no more Klipschorns or LaScala's.