Deang
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Posts posted by Deang
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They look better than ‘7’. Any chips, scratches, or water stains?
Thanks,
Dean
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5 hours ago, the real Duke Spinner said:
Not to argue
But as a electrician for 50 years I would be off the Job if I took more than an hour ...Assuming all the Parts were there
Lol. I’m glad you aren’t building networks for a living.-
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Would love to see someone do a build like mine in an hour, I would hire them.
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It should make sense that if you make physical changes to the loudspeaker you will hear changes to the loudspeaker. No surprise there. The problem is that without measurements, you have no idea what is going on. You have nothing to tell you why you are hearing what you are hearing. Something can curve terrible and a person will tell you how great it sounds.
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I guess you’re being facetious.
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Too bright. Wrong capacitors and autoformers for the design.
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3 hours ago, Marvel said:
THE real AK3. Would present as Klipsch designed it. Whether it's better is personal taste. Is that $650 for a pair or single? Steep price to pay...
I'm okay with the Klipsch designs, but ur starting to talk big money.
lol. I spent $5K to bring back the T2A, T4A, the graded 5mH ferrite bobbin, the 2.5mH, 4.0mH, and all the small air cores - all in wax. How REAL do you want it?Considering how long it takes to wire and solder the things, $650.00 a pair shipped is a good deal. Labor is $150.00 per board. The rest is parts.
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Solid advice from the others. Is there an issue?
https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en-us/articles/360036957831-Heritage-Crossover-Repairs
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Nice amps. I doubt it has anything to do with that.
@Bacek gives solid advice.
One thing to consider with anything used is being generally in the dark regarding their history. I always wondered if K-77’s sound a little rough due to years of being driven hard.
I stock the parts to update the AK-2.
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Linking this ad to my Facebook business page.
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There are a couple on Etsy that make some nice looking badges.
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Areovox can (Mylar film) compared to new Klipsch OEM Mylar and Sonicap.
Chasing lowest ESR possible is also an incorrect approach for vintage rebuilds, where the rule is “replace part with like part”.
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Read where? That would only apply to electrolytics exposed to high voltages and/or heat. They can last a surprisingly long time in a loudspeaker network. Film types can last 50 years or more, which is how old the cans are. They may not be as good as new, but nothing to panic over unless they are leaking or you notice a problem - usually low tweeter output. Still, I encourage people to replace them instead of waiting for them to leak or fail.
20 years for film capacitor death is bs.
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4 hours ago, Travis In Austin said:
They don’t sound like Klipsch speakers anymore is the top reason I have seen from those who switched one out and did an A/B.
I understand the appeal of mods and tinkering. It is hit or miss though. A mod loved by some is disappointing to others. What I don’t understand is how someone can completely change the sound of the loudspeaker and insist “it’s still Klipsch”.
Not promoting modifications on the company message board is a small ask by Roy and Klipsch.
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Klipsch Support doesn’t monitor the forum, and even if they did, there is no guarantee they would know.
Roy only checks in once or twice a day and it is highly unlikely he reads every post.
There are less and less of us around that even know what you’re asking about.
In what section did you post your question?
Is this it?
If not, there are many other audio forums.
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Part of the problem with his version of the thing is the cheap metal oxide resistors in the tweeter section. Nice fingernails across the chalkboard quality.
@bsacco1 I can change them back to AA’s if you’re interested. Email me.
dgwescott@gmail.com
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@Bubo The majority of those points have been explained/debunked several times over.
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@soundbound Fair to a point. Opinions should be fact based.
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Everything I wrote are things others have said, taken straight from the Klipsch Facebook groups and someone’s webpage. So you agree it sounds stupid and immature? I guess I made my point.
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Well, everyone knows Roy and Klipsch could care less about support for vintage Heritage. They will lie, mislead and do whatever it takes to get you folks to drag them to the curb and buy new speakers. Klipsch also has an incompetent engineering department that’s afraid of being shown up by third party vendors, where the super smart people work - that’s why they don’t want us talking about them here!
All of them networks look just like Klipsch so they must still be Klipsch! Yes yes I know the parts are all different and it sounds different but prove to me it’s different! It’s a factory spec upgrade! 🤪
lmao. Some of you have lost your damn minds.
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People ask for proof, and when you give it to them, they don’t listen. It doesn’t matter how many times or ways you explain it to them.
Measurements were provided here, for both capacitors and autotransformers.
I just posted ESR measurements on the Vintage Klipsch Fans Facebook page a few days ago. No one really cares, either due to confirmation bias, or simply an inability to grasp the implications.
I was going to post Boxler’s amazing results on the autoformer with some of my own measurements. I have decided not to waste my time. It’s an exercise in futility.
Considering what has transpired here over the last year it is astonishing that there are still people who think that nothing has been proven or discussed at length.
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Those aren’t Type A’s. Don’t run those with stock tweeters. That network runs a lower crossover point that will stress a K-77.
CT-125 is an Eminence APT-50
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Bob never called his networks “upgrades”. He never wavered on this.
I am very much on the record of not liking the sound of any of the Heritage networks built with the Sonicap. Bob was very well aware of this and mostly just found it amusing.
(SOLD OUT) Dope From Hope Book (SOLD OUT)
in Lounge
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