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Posts posted by Deang
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Go big or go home. The rest of us have gone to 6AWG. We solder it to the VC wire.
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It’s not the crossover, because if it was, neither of your woofers would be working. So, it’s either damage to the driver, or your little buddy chewed through some wiring.
Use a Torx bit #20 to remove the screws to the back plate. Inspect the network and the wiring. With a good flashlight, you can inspect the wiring through the rear.
Same Torx bit for the woofer. Avoid power tools and take your time. Once you get the woofer out, put a meter to it.
Funny thread, do some people actually not know there is only one “deang”?
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Have you looked at them, checked the wiring?
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The original capacitors for that era were hermetically sealed paper and oil. He should’ve left them alone.
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4 hours ago, jjptkd said:
They're your speakers do with them as you wish. If you do build your own cabinets with the parts you have I'd recommend looking at @ClaudeJ1 Super Heresy's
You should stop bumping this thread and instead link it with a PM - for obvious reasons. -
1 hour ago, Stephen Buck said:
On used original commercial units redeployed to home use.
Commercial plywood LaScalas had commercial woofers with higher SPLs and were often deployed in harsh environments, auditoriums with high temperature and humidity swings over many years. It’s fantastic people find them so good for reuse.
Before you go screw up a pair of AL5s which are MDF/HDF and therefore have different resonance characteristics, I’d consider your SPLs and real world use and actual audible measurements from listening position. Should be easily done with test tone and mic, to pick up actual signal mismatch and with someone alternately pressing on sidewall to dampen to see if errant signal reduces or goes away. Probably REW can do it.
^ThisAlong with the MDF, quite a bit of correction built into the new networks.
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Yup, I’m being a dummy. I was just thinking about the ones that cancel out.
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4 hours ago, Stephen Buck said:
… it’s the arrival time of the same frequency from two locations that can either amplify or cancel.
How can it amplify (sum). I thought it was out of phase wave cancellation? That’s why the response looks like a comb. I don’t see how this could ever be a good thing. -
Cool. I hope it works out for you.
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It looks like the OP has already been chased away.
Blaming every speaker problem on third party capacitors is stupid.
I like to wait until the speakers are actually working first before I blame the brand/type of caps, lol.
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If your plan is to gut them, the cabinets would be practically worthless. I can’t imagine anyone paying for them with no drivers or crossovers.
if you are tight with money, the answer is definitely not destroying a perfectly good set of loudspeakers.
They were designed to be used as stage monitors and have a strong vocal presence. Converting the networks to the AA will rebalance the loudspeakers. It will pull the midrange back so you can hear the bass.
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This sounds like more than a capacitor related issue. He said he’s running them in his Cornwalls, and the LaScala’s sound terrible by comparison.
So, I would recheck the wiring, and check to make sure the tweeters are actually working. -
Speaker Exchange (reconingspeakers.com) sells the factory part. Klipsch parts of course also has them, but you don’t get the instant turnaround. For the life of me I can’t figure why Klipsch doesn’t have an online store for most requested items.
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I think we should leave any enforcement of the rules to the moderators.
We should always be interested in helping somebody figure out a problem. It’s not like he’s here shilling.
The sound you are describing is what one might hear with no tweeters, yet you said you changed the diaphragms out. You should start by double-checking that they are actually working.
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Same. They won’t sell them. I had La Scala’s at the time and wanted to update them from the metal versions.
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Never mind.
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Before the invention of the printing press.
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Bonehead Land
Is that the new name for the Forum, lol.
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Welp, I guess no more Klipschorns or LaScala's.
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What is the general condition of them? In nice condition they are still demanding a premium. I see them regularly go for $2500 - $3000.
Tweeter diaphragms are inexpensive.
Dead squawker could certainly be a bad connection. Loosen and retighten all of the screws on the terminal strips.
AL-3 would be the best network for that driver complement. Least expensive route would be to find some on eBay and recap them. I build new with OEM parts. Cost is $645.00 a pair.
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You have access to their real time inventory?
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On 12/24/2023 at 8:51 PM, delta88343 said:
Unfortunately however, Klipsch Heritage speakers are more sensitive to this room effect than dome radiators with a wider dispersion patten.
You have it backwards.
Horns have controlled directivity.
I think they’re brighter because that’s how they’re voiced. Live music doesn’t sound “buttery smooth”, in fact, most live music is fairly bright and a little harsh (a little).
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Cornwall IV - to go SET or Class A?
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I thought 1 watt was full power with those things.🙃