Deang

Keith, buy these if you can -- they're sweet. I will also feel like less of a dick.

Go ahead and get your hair cut. I whacked mine off about the same time Frampton did. I close up the mystery of the pic soon, but right now I'm have too much fun.

Eicos are ugly, and so violate the commandment: Thou shalt not buy ugly equipment.

My thinking is a little different here. I was thinking about all those people with refunds just itching to get their hands on a decent set of speakers.

James, Your Belles show up yet?

Don't answer. He lures you in with kind words -- then gets out the 2x4.

It's Cornwalls or bust for me...right now it's 'bust'.

I have heard of Cornwalls where the grills are NOT removable. Which animal is that?

Phil, No response from email I sent -- did you get it? You can see the ad on the two channel forum.

Hey, my first double post. What the hell was that all about?

Extremely sharp. How did you even up the baffle with corners when you did away with the grill?

This is becoming an epidemic

Buy less equipment and buy more music. I'm already a perfect husband and father. Serving God is serving others -- I need to get busy. People don't care how much you know until they know how much you care -- I need to get busy. What do you see? GODISNOWHERE

Why doesn't that surprise me. I've been thinking about that as well over the last couple days. Yanking the stock wire out of the RF7's.

Yankee, That last post read much like many of my first posts on this forum. I used to do Magnepans until I heard the itty bitty RB5's -- the rest is history.

Kelly, No doubt -- that's why I emphasized in one of the other posts that results are completely system dependant. I do think the more resolving the system is, the more sensitive to the small electrical variations in the cables it will be. Good cables should be based on solid engineering principles and science however -- and not the tripe most cable manufacturers throw at us.

An inch of lead and 4 inches of concrete The dielectric doesnt serve as "shielding" per se --- but is simply a non-conductive material surrounding the conductor as an insulator. The 'best' dielectric is supposed to be Teflon foam (according to Jon Risch), but there are others which serve up just as well according to others. Shielding is typically accomplished using foil and/or copper braid. "A dielectric is material that does not conduct electricity readily, i.e., an insulator (see insulation). A good dielectric should also have other properties: It must resist breakdown under high voltages; it should not itself draw appreciable power from the circuit; it must have reasonable physical stability; and none of its characteristics should vary much over a fairly wide temperature range. One important application of dielectrics is as the material separating the plates of a capacitor. A capacitor with plates of a given area will vary in its ability to store electric charge depending on the material separating the plates. On the basis of this variation each insulating material can be assigned a dielectric constant. Generally, the dielectric constant of air is defined as 1 and other dielectric constants are determined with reference to it. Other properties of interest in a dielectric are dielectric strength, a measure of the maximum voltage it can sustain without significant conduction, and the degree to which it is free from power losses." A problem not usually addressed by the majority of interconnects is the following: "The impedance of a coaxial cable is, in large part, determined by the cable's geometry and the material from which the center insulator is made. The dimension between the center conductor and the shield of the cable, as well as the diameter of the center conductor, all influence the cable's capabilities. During installation, as interconnect cables are bent, the internal segments (conductors, shields, insulators, etc.) must shift independently to allow easy movement. If the various layers of the cable do not slide easily over each other the dimensions between the layers can be altered which changes the impedance. Impedance changes affect the cable's ability to accurately conduct signals and cause negative effects on the cable/component interface." I did some research on this, and also talked to a friend at work who used to work for a cable company in Maryland. Gene has an engineering backround, and told me this is true, but that solutions to the problem are expensive to implement.

oodles of cables...yes, definitely an impulse buy. Medication was waning, what can I say? I hadn't really expected them to make a difference. I was planning on being unimpressed, taking them back, and writing a post on how interconnects don't make a difference. That didn't quite work out the way I planned. I did really want to get the other system dialed in so I could quit thinking about it -- and changing those Monsters out was the only thing I hadn't done yet. I suppose I could have cashed advanced for some of the Cornwall money, but I didn't think about that until yesterday. At any rate, I like to keep the card limit down, as I primarily use it for emergencies (like cables) -- I need to pay it off at the end of Jan. We are also expecting a new arrival any day now, and some money has gone out preparing for that. Bottlehead DIY cables are for the Scott and the uh... oh yeah, I won't have those for a while. Pic of my system is in the cable thread below.

bump

Pat, is there a link for these somewhere?

My amp sale fell through. Some AudiogoN users should just stay at eBay. Finally solidified a deal on the sub, but I need to use the money to get the rear brakes on my Saturn fixed, which are totally trashed. The calipers froze up and destroyed the rotors. I also need to pay off the cables which I charged. I emailed Jeff that I've got everything for sale that I can think of -- but ain't nothing moving. Just a bad time of the year to squeeze money out of people. I told Jeff to eBay the Cornwalls. I'll probably have the amp, Heresies, tubes, and guitar until income tax time, when refunds start rolling in. Someone please buy Jeff's Cornwalls! He's probably ready to wring my neck, and someone with half a brain snatching these up might take the heat off of me!!

Andy, did you ever contact Bob Gassel of Klipsch? You should go back and do what no one can do better.

I just wanted to post this to add to my post count. I'm getting smarter with each post.

Craig, no reason to thank me -- I just call 'em like I see 'em. Yankee, forget your calculations. They are worthless when attempting to apply them to tube amps. Yeah, they say a watt is a watt -- but I can drive a person out of the room with 9 watts of SET. I can easily hit 105db with my SET amp sitting 8 feet away from the speakers. Incidently, I listen to moslty Rock and Metal -- so, if there was a lack of bass or 'power' -- you would hear about it from me. If you buy 'new', and decide you don't like it -- you are going to take a hell of a beating. Why not buy a slightly used piece? http://www.audiogoN.com

You don't want a tube amp (Jedi mind trick) If you get one, you'll want to sell all of your Rotel stuff, and then the madness really begins. Before you know it, you'll be like me -- running your RF-7's with 9 watts, or worse -- like poor Leo who will be doing it with 2 watts. This question comes out about once a week -- I think we're all burnt out from saying the same thing over and over. Tubes last on average 4000 hours. Some tubes used in preamp circuits can go 10,000 hours or more. Really try to use the search utility. It's kind of sucky -- but there's enough stuff out here to keep you reading for days, and would save the rest of us a ton of keystrokes. I will say that if you sink that kind of money into something used instead of new -- it can go far. Spend half that much and you can get a vintage piece that will sound better than most things $2000 or more. See the thread below with the guy asking about Fortes or RF7's -- there's some stuff in there about this.