Deang

I just wanted to post this to add to my post count. I'm getting smarter with each post.

Craig, no reason to thank me -- I just call 'em like I see 'em. Yankee, forget your calculations. They are worthless when attempting to apply them to tube amps. Yeah, they say a watt is a watt -- but I can drive a person out of the room with 9 watts of SET. I can easily hit 105db with my SET amp sitting 8 feet away from the speakers. Incidently, I listen to moslty Rock and Metal -- so, if there was a lack of bass or 'power' -- you would hear about it from me. If you buy 'new', and decide you don't like it -- you are going to take a hell of a beating. Why not buy a slightly used piece? http://www.audiogoN.com

You don't want a tube amp (Jedi mind trick) If you get one, you'll want to sell all of your Rotel stuff, and then the madness really begins. Before you know it, you'll be like me -- running your RF-7's with 9 watts, or worse -- like poor Leo who will be doing it with 2 watts. This question comes out about once a week -- I think we're all burnt out from saying the same thing over and over. Tubes last on average 4000 hours. Some tubes used in preamp circuits can go 10,000 hours or more. Really try to use the search utility. It's kind of sucky -- but there's enough stuff out here to keep you reading for days, and would save the rest of us a ton of keystrokes. I will say that if you sink that kind of money into something used instead of new -- it can go far. Spend half that much and you can get a vintage piece that will sound better than most things $2000 or more. See the thread below with the guy asking about Fortes or RF7's -- there's some stuff in there about this.

Yankee, The Scotts have a derived center channel output with which to accomdate an external amp for subs.

Some pictures.

Yankee, The RF-7's are very dynamic, and the Heresies, though very musical -- don't even come close to matching the slam, quickness, and microdynamic reproduction abilities of the RF-7. However, I'm sure the Cornwall would do better, and I do believe that squawker is magical with tubes. As far as tube amps go -- don't jump on those quicksilvers so fast. Spend a little time here and use the seach tool and read about other push-pulls like the AE-25 Superamp DJH, and vintage Scott units worked over by Craig here on the forum. I just sold the first Scott 299A I had, tweaked by Craig -- upgrading to the Scott 299B. Craig is currently going over this one -- and I will have it soon. You can pick up a Scott 299A for around $350 tops, have Craig do $250 work on it -- and it will completely smoke almost anything up to 3 times the money. The 299A I had definitely sounded better than the $2500 AE-25 Superamp DJH I had. They don't make them like this anymore, and if they did -- they would be extremely expensive. Point-to-point wiring throughout, and tube rectified amplification. Don't throw down that kind of money until you think this out. In other words -- don't do a 'Dean'.

The Servodrive stuff is definitely killer, and if you can afford it -- the Contrabass or Basstech 7's would be incredible. Prices are not listed on the site, so we are probably talking some serious money here. Tom V of SVS developed the SVS subs initially to drive his Klipsch KLF based HT. I'm quite sure dual Ultra's will more than suffice for the Scalas. $2100 for the pair with the amp, and you will need an outboard crossover if you are not using an HT receiver with internal electonic crossover. The perfect crossover is the HSU research crossover. I'm getting ready to put mine up for sale at $300 if you are interested. It's all Class A, discrete. I currently have the 50Hz chip in mine -- which would be perfect for the Scala. So, $2500 and you're done with this sub business. Trust me -- SVS is the bomb. http://store.yahoo.com/hsusubs/highendcrossover.html http://www.svsubwoofers.com/subs_csultra.htmhttp://www.svsubwoofers.com/'>

It doesn't make me nervous, but does intrique me. You listening to the words in Fuel's stuff, is almost as bizarre as me listening to Stone Temple Pilots and Metallica:) It's kind of funny, I can listen to words in music I disagree with, the same way I can get into conversations with people who say things I disagree with. It doesn't matter. I like the music, or like the person -- agree to disagree, and still enjoy their company.

It's all ear candy, ya know? I like my RF7's very much - simply magical. I spent two years on this forum trashing the Heritage speakers, simply referring to them as 'earbleeders'. I recently aquired some Heresies just to see what the fuss is all about -- and came away very surprised at how musical they are. I do think all the Klipsch speakers require very good amplification. Notice I didn't say 'expensive' amplification -- but good amplification. The RF7's are a tremendous value, and it's simply amazing how much one has to spend to match them. Of course, you could do used K-horns for the price of new RF7's -- but then you wouldn't have Klipschcones:)

Just got through reading the other thread. You have actually had the RSW-15 in your house? If you buy two Earthquakes, you're going to very disappointed. Two RSW-15's will have much greater output. I read your comments about "bass shooting into the wall" -- but you should know that bass below 80Hz is completely non-directional. It makes no difference. The sub should be placed as designed, per instructions. The Earthquake uses a class D type amp just like the RSW-15. The FTC rating for the RSW-15 is 650 watts, compared to the 550 of the Earthquake. The Earthquake has one driver in a sealed box. The RSW-15 has a passive radiator, which basically acts as a port - raising sensitivity. The Earthquake weighs 69 lbs. The RSW-15 weighs 85 lbs. Ignore the hype and don't waste your money. You have several problems. 1) Your room is big. 2) You own Scalas. 3) Your room is big, and you own Scalas. Your experience regarding the PSB's probably had more to do with some overlap between the sub and the Scalas due to a combination of the tuning of the boxes and the crossover slopes. It was probably doing a better job of exciting room nodes, but you shouldn't make the mistake of thinking this is what accurate, powerful bass sounds like. Your Scalas are extremely sensitive, and I can tell you that ANY single sub, and most mediocre dual sub combinations -- is/are going to start compressing long before those Scalas even get warmed up. There is no argument here -- it's just physics. In your room, with those Scalas, you are going to need four (4) good cube type subs, or a pair of SVS Ultras being pushed by a 1000 class AB watts. Incidently, you can buy two SVS Ultras with the Samson pro 1000 for almost 1/2 the money of those two Earthquakes.

Leo, why not do what I do. If I want to see a movie, I take an extended lunch break in the middle of the week, and go to the theater. I can't remember the last time there were more than 10 or 15 people in there with me. It's nice. Of course, I think you would be surprised how enjoyable an old, or more recent movie can be just using 2 speakers -- especially Klipsch speakers. You just need a cheapie DVD player.

Greg, Your K-horns are probably fine. A question, and a few suggestions. 1) Are they physically located in the same place they were two years ago, or are they in a different room now? 2) Go back and check your speaker wires. Make absolutely sure you have not reversed the leads by accident. I have done this myself on more than one occasion. If you have one of the 'positives' on a 'negative' terminal (or visa versa) -- it would sound very much like you are describing. 3) Turn your system on and turn it down to a rather low level. Do one channel at a time. Put your ear to each section of the speaker to verify all the drivers are working. You should easily hear the bass coming from the back of the bass bin, the midrange coming out the midrange horn, and treble out of the tweeter. Check both speakers. Well? 4) Check all of the settings on your receiver. Make sure it is set to two channel/normal. No surround sound settings or matrixing. 5) Wiggle your interconnects, and make sure you don't have any problems there as well. 6) Take the sub completely out of the circuit. Get the K-horns 'right' -- then add the sub back in. Report back. Good luck!

What do I think? I think you're nuts! Why not spend a little less on the TV and get some real speakers? Hell, the sound is more than 1/2 the HT experience. Going to a slightly smaller screen size might give him the money to at least go with some RB3's and a sub. brandnamez.com only honors factory warranties is they specifically say so. I don't think they are an 'authorized' dealer for anyone.

Whoa Fini, you were so close... Oops, wrong planet.

Hey, I know you...you're in the choir!

Mike, you have mail.

Don't be sorry you started the thread -- it's been informative. Seems this kind of thing is coming up more and more. Maybe you should just ask yourself this: If he had packed to your expectations -- would the amp have survived? Try to see his position too. He gave you the money back, and he now has a total POS:) Maybe just go with a neutral?

Ry, Check your private messages here on the forum. Thanks.

Could I please have the link the Chris' site? I see him referenced often at the Asylum, but don't know the link.

"...violins, harpsichords, woodwind..." Leo, are the musical instruments of sorts, or something else altogether? I think that problem with silibance will substantially decrease with the Moondoggies. Doug, a very nice description of your setup. A couple of things here when comparing the 5's and 7's. They are really very different speakers, especially when bringing in room acoustics. The 7's weigh 30 lbs more each, are 3.5 inches taller, almost 3 inches wider, and 2.5 inches deeper. It doesn't sound like much, but when you factor in the additional mass, and the additional total surface area (which adds up) -- it's not surprising they would sound so different sitting in the same spot. I have mine 23 inches from the side walls, and 34 from the front wall to the rear of the speakers. They are 7 feet apart (center of cone - to center of cone), and I sit a little over 8 feet back. One thing I did, was make sure the distance from the side walls, and the distance from the front wall -- were not multiples of each other.

Well now, that sounds very cool. So, you are not using the caulk backer as a dielectric (since the enamal on the magnet wire does this), but only to hold the magnet wire in place while you wrap it. Brilliant -- what a great idea. I bet they sound great. Did you try different gauges? I'm curious here, since I suspect much of the differences in sound between copper interconnects might actually be related to wire thickness.