Deang
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Posts posted by Deang
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22 hours ago, bluetoffee316 said:
JEM seems to indicate that a crossover replacement is unnecessary or even undesirable; be interested in thoughts on that as well.
Usually unnecessary.
Undesirable? That depends.
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We need an intervention for Mike. I’ll drive.
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It’s not always about Klipsch approved parts, but also about Klipsch approved solutions.
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It has been over a month. I don't recall what @mboxlerfound with the T4A. I would be surprised if it's 4dB exactly. There is also a 5mH inductor in parallel with the driver, so I have no idea what the actual attenuation is.
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$1500 for a piece of “high end” audio gear? Might want recalibrate that scale brother.
I was talking to John Warren last night, who has recently gone to several shows. At one of these shows, his wife told him, “you’re like the kid in this group”. We are both in our mid 60s.
It’s a super niche market now. The great majority can’t afford any of this stuff.
We call them “phones”, but they are really pocket super computers.
You can get a nice iPhone on a payment plan for $50 a month. Partner it up with decent headphones or IEM’s, and you are set. There is a lot to be said for lowering the noise floor and taking the room out of the equation. I do a lot of this myself.
Younger people are trying to figure out if there is even going to be a world for them when they get older. They don’t give two shits about any of this stuff.
If Klipsch isn’t careful, like Audio Research, they will also go the way of the dinosaur.
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Do NOT add ferrofluid to a driver that wasn’t designed to use it.
Modifications to your speaker, especially the crossover, typically just gives you a brighter speaker. The sound will be a bit smoother, but will also sound out of balance. Use EQ or tone controls instead.
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And the holes. Don’t forget about the holes.
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Be sure to use the Boxler Alphabet System, lol.
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12 hours ago, Dave MacKay said:
Thanks for the reminder about the plots and for posting them. The differences looked to be pretty minor (to my eye) which is why I was curious. I thought that a single chart showing before & after would be clearer.
Like Mike said, since the 3636 has exactly twice the inductance, the plots look symmetrical - but that does not mean they are the same. If you look closely, you'll see the rate of attenuation below the cut-off frequency is different. Compare the capacitor only line, to tap 4 at 400Hz and 200Hz. 10dB/octave is not 12dB/octave. Since this relates to rate/amount of attenuation being applied just below frequency cut-off, maybe think about this in terms of what is happening at the diaphragm. It sounds different because it measures different. Now, there is a way to band aid this, and if you were paying attention, Mike discussed this in the AK thread.
Same with the capacitors. Modest change, but very audible - and of course all of these changes are accumulative in their effect.
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You guys have a lot of patience, and good eyes too!
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4 hours ago, Dave MacKay said:
Have you taken any measurements, e.g., with REW? If so, please share a plot that shows the performance measured with each autoformer.
Kind of confused. You were following Mike’s thread on Audiokarma, and even “liked” the post with the plots.
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24 minutes ago, OO1 said:
what's the recommended size gauge ? Tx
16 gauge, but consider the capacitors and coils are 18 or 20 gauge. The runs on the board are so short I don't see how it matters. From the drivers I would use 16 gauge - which is what Klipsch used.
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21 minutes ago, mboxler said:
Even though all of the autoformers will result in a 2nd order high pass to the squawker, the inductance between taps 0 - 4 dictates how high in frequency the 12db slope extends.
The curve for the 3636 did not look like 12dB/octave to me.
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Contrary to what we’ve been told over the years by various individuals, the T2A has working inductance in parallel with the K-55. It creates a 12dB/octave slope. The same applies to the other Klipsch spec autoformers, though in some cases an inductor is put in parallel with the autoformer to maintain the 12dB/octave slope below the cutoff frequency.
The 3619 and all its variants (3636, 3654, 3619-ET, and 3675) have twice the inductance. They also use a different steel for the laminations. They curve different. Based on what I’ve seen, it doesn’t seem likely it wouldn’t be audible. Anyway, good units for other applications but not Klipsch networks.
Someone asked about the wiring. The original wiring is tin annealed stranded copper.
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The point was simply that if it was there to begin with, it should be there when you’re finished. Now, if you have a problem with the link or note, just ignore the information and do whatever you want.
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It is correct. There is also an imbedded link with further instructions.
I found the following in my notes:
“Ferrofluid provides mechanical dampening and dramatically reduces Qms [and thus Qts] of the driver and flattens its impedance curve in the Fs zone. If the ferrofluid is removed, then most T/S parameters of the tweeter will change. Qms will be higher and the driver may tend to peak near Fs before rolloff, even Fs may change. The crossover would also need to be redesigned since the impedance curve will have different shape and a big resonance peak.”
The following is not correct:
“I cleaned the fluid out of the gaps with folded sticky notes until it was clean enough (as recommended by Michael Crites) Installed the new crites diaphragms. No sweat. No ferrofluid necessary.”
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If you aren’t close to 100% certain of a thing, please don’t give advice. I would also start avoiding some of the “Klipsch” Facebook pages which are now often filled with poor advice and incorrect information.
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If you sent the crossovers to Klipsch, they would have tested them, and then cleaned them up. They would’ve unscrewed the capacitors from the board to check for leaking oil. If the cans checked out, they would have wiped everything down and sent them back to you. I’m sure they’re fine.
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Yeah, 400 hundred hours for those caps to burn in. 🙂
Edit: that was a joke. Anything a capacitor is going to do it’s done doing in 10 hours or less.
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Internet troubleshooting is like playing whack-a-mole.
“‘Muddy” is what you would hear with a blown driver.
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I second the McCormack.
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How to find replacement binding posts for RP-600M II?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
https://www.parts-express.com/Gold-Plated-Banana-5-Way-Speaker-Terminal-260-302?quantity=1
CESS Terminal Connector Binding Post Banana Plug Jack Socket Panel/Chassis Mount - Length 1.1" / 29mm (jcx) (4 Pack) https://a.co/d/cU6A2yN