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The reference speakers have had Monster wire in them for a while. How recent are these improvements you're talking about? John

I have my center on top of my TV, which puts it pretty above the listener. I angled it down and overall I'm very pleased. BTW, the armoire used to a shelf above the TV which held my Quintet center, DVD player, and VHS. So I know what you're facing here. John

I would agree w/ what your salesman said w/ one possible exception. If you're planning on listening to multichannel music, you may want to consider the bookshelves for all four surrounds. You definitely want the bookshelves for the 6th and 7th speakers though. BTW, that will be one sweet setup! John

---------------- On 2/11/2004 9:16:48 AM lpdcan28 wrote: i am getting the quintets for a small living room. my ? is, could i use the sb1 or sb2 bookshelf speakers as the mains? and, could i actually place these type of speakers be placed on the floor??? will it ruin the sound quality? ---------------- Placing the bookshelves on the floor wouldn't be the best idea. This will place the drivers very close to the floor and produce some very undesirable reflections. Stands would be a MUCH better way to go. They can be had fairly inexpensively, or you can make some yourself. John

---------------- On 2/9/2004 7:34:01 PM michael hurd wrote: If it is a crown, I don't doubt it's abilities as a capable amplifier. Regardless of the specifications, if it puts out an honest 2000 watts, which I believe that it is capable of, that is only 6 db less than if it put out 8000. Keep in mind that music is not like a continuous tone, and that there is always peaks higher than the average levels. ---------------- Mike, I agree 100% w/ THAT statement. 8kW is a LOT of power and as you pointed out not much dB gain over something more "reasonable" like 2kW. (Did I actually just say 2kW was reasonable? ) John

---------------- On 2/7/2004 6:25:42 PM prodj101 wrote: I have to agree with minnmale here. I would put big money on the fact that the Crown can push the full 8000 watts, and it damn well better at that price. ---------------- No doubt it will push the full 8kW, but not on a 20A circuit. That's the point that's trying to be made here. Even at 230V & 20A that's only 4.6kW max. As for the peaking factor, they could use some large capacitors to hit that level very briefly, but then the caps would have to recharge, putting further drain on the circuit until they do. To run this thing you'd need at least a 230V/40A circuit. John

Where is it "generating" the power from? John

I agree w/ what you're saying. I haven't posted very much on this forum, but I've spied a lot. One thing I have noticed is the acceptance of other brands around here (except Bose which is understood). Generally speaking, the other brands are more sub related. I think that SVS gets so much attention here, and on other forums because of their "bang" (in the most literal since it should probably be boom) for the buck. Main speakers are much more personal. John

We got into a discussion about this amp on another forum. Has anybody done the math on the 8000W? At 120V it would take 67A in a circuit w/o inductance. At 230W it would take 34A. I don't think it's intended for home use. John

I have a JVC 9010VBK and am very pleased with the features and sound of this unit. For ~$249 (which it can be had for on the web), it's a pretty good deal, IMHO. John

They will be a little higher than ideal (they'll be about 7.5' high to the center of the speaker). Angling them is an option, using mounts of course. Is vibration against the wall going to be an issue w/ the keyhole? What about using the rubber feet on the back of the speaker to isolate it from the wall? John

I just ordered my second pair of RB-25s to complete my upgrade from the Quintets to RB/C-25s. My two rear speakers will be wall mounted. What do you guys recommend to use? Should I just use the keyhole and a screw in the wall and be done or something more elaborate? Should I buy speaker mounts and use those? Ideas and suggestions will be appreciated thanks? John

---------------- On 1/31/2004 4:57:34 PM MrMcGoo wrote: You could use RB-75s all around with a good subwoofer. Or you could wait for the new THX Ultra2 setup or the premier reference setup. The wait and see approach can't hurt. Bill ---------------- I second this option. You could make a REALLY nice HT out of six RB-75s and an SVS sub. That would be different, and effective. John

I have a set of Quintets (in fact PM me if you want to buy them) that I just upgraded from. They are very impressive, period. They fill my living room w/ excellent sound during movies. The main reason I upgraded, was for music though. The satelites "only" go down to 100Hz. Since movies are recorded w/ the discrete .1 channel, they perform better in this realm (assuming that you have a sub). With music however, the bass was a little too "localized" for me. If I was just listening to music while doing other things, this was not a problem. However, when I sat on my couch and listened to music to unwind, it was more noticeable. My advice to you would be to look at the RB-25s or 35s. The Quintets retail for $399 for the 5.0 set. (No sub.) The RB-25s are $399 per pair, and the 35s are $599. If your main interest is music, then I would start w/ a pair of 25s. Later on you can add two more RB-25s and a center and have a VERY nice HT that is also great for music. BTW, I upgraded to two RB-25s in the front and an RC-25. My wife even appreciates the improvement in sound. Therefore, while I doubt you will disappointed at all in the Quintets, since you're looking primarily for music, I would start w/ the RB-25s. John

Congrats on the system!! I bet that does sound pretty nice. As for the grills, I'd contact Klipsch. John

---------------- On 1/30/2004 3:32:20 AM Darren wrote: When I turned the sub crossover up to max, it either picked up more range, or more likely more volume (I didn't expect that). ---------------- Actually you gained a little of both. Remember, above the cross-over frequency (for a sub), the volume drops off linearly, for example 18dB/octave. Therefore, just picking numbers out of the air here, if the sub is putting out 90dB @ 80Hz (and 80Hz is the cross-over w/ an 18dB/octave slope), then it's putting out 72dB @ 160Hz. When I first got into this stuff, I thought the cross-over was a brick wall. If I set the cross-over @ 80Hz, then that's where the sub stopped producing sound. The cross-over for the mains is doing the same thing coming down. If they're producing 90dB @ 80Hz then they're producing 72dB @ 40Hz, assuming the same conditions as before. Try setting the cross-over to 60Hz for your 7s and let us know what happens. John

---------------- On 1/29/2004 2:32:40 PM caz1604 wrote: I am not saying that only buy wire because it looks cool. In my opinion, my Monster Wire does perform better than lamp cord, but I did not say that because I would get about 10 responses from people who believe otherwise. I am simply trying to point out that lamp cord looks like terd and that I don't understand why people splurge on somethings and not others. Yes, interconnects can add up really quick in cost, but I don't think the minimal cost that is saved in buying lamp cord is worth it. If everything was made to perform equally, then we all would be driving Pintos instead of splurging for the Benz. ---------------- I agree with the lamp cord to Monster comparison, for interconnects (we'll agree to leave speaker wire out of this). As far as why people splurge on some things and not others, I feel it comes down to budget and prioritizing money. I use AR interconnects and speaker wire. Do I think they're the best out there? NOPE. But I feel they give me very good bang for the buck. If I was comfortable making my own interconnects I would do that. That way I could use the parts I wanted and save some money. However, the biggest factor with respect to interconnects, IMHO, is the connections to the connectors. (How good is the connection? How durable is the connection? That type of thing.) I can't guarantee myself I can make a quality, durable connection, so I buy prefab interconnects. John

---------------- On 1/29/2004 7:52:32 AM speed3 wrote: I think you should look at the RB 35 before the RF 25. I listened to all of these speakers just before Christmas and felt that the RB 35's outperformed the RF 25's. ---------------- I second this notion. I just bought a pair of RB-25s after listening to them. I saved enough money to also get my center channel in the process! Since most people are using a sub, the significance of the performance of the mains in the <80Hz region isn't as critical. Another advantage of going w/ bookshelves is that you can use them all around very easily. Of course that doesn't apply in this case, but.... BTW, the RF-25s and the RB-35s both go down to 45Hz. Audition the RB-35s. In fact given the prices for the RF-25s ($799) and the RF-35s ($999), you could look at the RB-75s for a couple hundred more ($1199). $0.02, John

---------------- On 1/29/2004 1:13:43 PM caz1604 wrote: I don't understand this at all, you guys spend loads of money on high quality components and speakers, but hook it up with $5 lamp cord. I know you will say blind test this, he said this! Bottom line: Lamp cord looks weak and tacky. Even if it does sound the same! You go right ahead and call me and idiot for buying high priced speaker wire or for buying Monster wire too. At least my wire has some character and visual appearance. I know, I know, it's cheaper to buy lamp cord. Is this some type of deal yall make with the WAF. "Let me spend two grand on this pre amp and will save $20.00 and use lamp cord." I know yall have the money, so whats the deal here! Stop being frugal with your speaker wire... ---------------- caz, Your argument for buying expensive wire, buy it because it looks cool, does make more sense than most arguments for it. The bottom line to most people though is performance. WAF is a MAJOR factor in my HT. (In all honesty since my HT is my living room I'm fairly picky as well.) However, we would both rather put our money into speakers etc. instead of cables/wires which can cost as much as the difference between the speakers we want and the ones we REALLY want. In my system there is less than 8' of exposed wire so I'm not too worried about the looks of my wire. $0.02, John

You definitely want to set the sub's cross-over to the maximum position. Secondly, I like the idea of setting the crossover one octave above the bottom cutoff of the mains. Therefore since the RF-15s go to 46Hz, a 92Hz crossp-over is what I would shoot for. Of course your receiver probably doesn't have that setting, so 100 would be very close. This compensates for the fact that the crossover is not a "wall", but a slope. Usually the slope is 18-24dB/octave. This way the transition between the mains and the sub is more subtle in cross-over range. John

Ear's suggestion of using a Y-adapter to connect to both inputs on the sub will give you another 3dB. John

Thanks for the info. I have a pretty good relationship w/ the guys I'll be buying the stuff from. I have always let them know up front when I'm looking, and when I'm buying. (They're working under different circumstances now, and this is the first time they've sold Klipsch.) I'm hoping for ~20% off MSRP. I'll be buying (at the least) a pair of RB-25s, stands, and an RC-25 all together. If they "sweeten the pot" enough, I'll also get a second pair of RB-25s for my surrounds. I plan on telling them this also. John

What percent do most dealers take off of Klipsch's MSRP? I'm going to be buying some RB-25s and an RC-25 and would like to know what to look for deal wise. I'm going to buy them from an authorized dealer. Thanks, John

---------------- On 1/22/2004 10:32:50 AM ssh wrote: ...Get the RS7s and put them on stands, at or about ear level, and on a plane with the listeners (out from each end of the couch). ---------------- Doesn't he want to put the surrounds a couple of feet above the listeners ears, ideally? Also, given the dispersion pattern of the RS-7, and the proximity they will be to the rear wall, wouldn't bookshelves suit his need better? Not trying to start anything, just satisfy my own curiosity. John

Notice how many time they use the phrase " 'cube based systems' "? I think that everyone knew EXACTLY what market Klipsch was shooting at. And if those "other guys" (cough-Bose-cough) can get that kind of jack for their systems, why not Klipsch? John