lorcoll

I have moved this thread in "Updates and Modifications" that I think is the right place: Ciao to all. Finally I have tried the '76 Khorn in the same place (and the same room) where I normally listen to '84 Khorn. The '76 Khorn have K55-V (spring terminal), K77 (alnico) and the AA type (I have the old original and the A/AA from BEC). The '84 Khorn have K55-M, K77-M and AK-2 type network. Well!! The best sound is definitely the '84 Khorn: more articulated bass, more body in the mid and a magic atmosphere. But with one change: the K77 (alnico) in place of K77-M (a bit bright), the '84 Khorns are the best Speaker System I have ever heard. Now I have bought the AK-3 from BEC to see if it is the best Klipsch Crossover. Has anyone compared these or other Khorn combinations?

FULLMUSIC 2A3 MESHPLATE.

Excuse me for the mistake, but the other woofer is a K33-B (not P). Here is a photo.

Hi. I have bought recently a pair of '76 Khorn and I have seen that one woofer is a K33-E while the other one is a K33-P. What the differences among the two. Have I to change the K33-P? Thanks. Lorenzo.

I need a pair of K77 tweeters to complete my DIY Cornscala. The max price I would pay for both is 120-130 $ (I think it is a right price). Can someone help me? Thanks. Lorenzo.

Ok. I think: if the actual sound is in another league respect to the non modified CD-960, what can I hear if I modify the analog filter (or can I eliminate it)? Can you tell me other simple mods in the analog section? Anyway, one thing is true: never I return back to the harsh and metal sound of the original CD-960. Lorenzo.

Shawn, I know that, but many think that the human ear is a better filter and in this way the signal have a good phase. The sound is truly fantastic and more more better than the standard configuration. Technically it isn't correct but to my ears it sounds more analog type. Other links: http://web.tiscali.it/rogers/misure.htm http://www.sakurasystems.com/articles/Kusunoki.html http://www.tnt-audio.com/intervis/kusunoki_e.html http://www.wdehaan.demon.nl/mono/dactda1543.html

Hi. I have modified my Philips CD-960 with this mod and the sound is now natural, dinamic and warm and fabulous with the horns. Have anyone tried this mod in a CD-Player based on the TDA-1541? It's extremely simple. Here is the description: The old 16x4 Philips CD-players can be easily converted to no-oversampling-digital-filter-less CD-players. Just open your CD-player and look for digital receiver SAA7210 (or SAA7310), for digital filter SAA7220 and for converter TDA1541. If you find them you can start to work. Please, remember you can find the 16x4 Philips chipset in many CD-player: Philips, Marantz, Quad, Cambridge, Rotel, Mission and more. Best CD-players ever made are in my opinion: Revox-Studer B226, Philips CD960, Marantz CD94 (but they sound 'dark and old style' without any modifications). They all use the hard solid Aluminium mechanism Philips CDM-1; IMHO nowadays the most CD transport mechanisms are very poor comparing to the old Philips Aluminium CDM-1. Modifications are very easy: just cut 3 traces on MB and by-pass the digital filter SAA7220 using 3 cables to get a real non-oversampling sound. - The TDA1541 DAC has three connections to the SAA7220 (word, clock and data): from pin 18 of the SAA7220 to pin 1 of the TDA1541 from pin 16 of the SAA7220 to pin 2 of the TDA1541 from pin 15 of the SAA7220 to pin 3 of the TDA1541 Look for these traces and cut them carefully using a cutter or a small drill. Now, using miniature coax (RG196), connect: pin 39 of the SAA7210 (or pin 1 of the SAA7220) to pin 1 of the TDA1541 pin 38 of the SAA7210 (or pin 2 of the SAA7220) to pin 2 of the TDA1541 pin 37 of the SAA7210 (or pin 3 of the SAA7220) to pin 3 of the TDA1541. Done! You can close your CD-player and start your no-oversampling listening lession. But... the muting function (in the SAA7220) has been bypassed and the CD-player will produce pops and crackles when skipping tracks and when the music starts. To restore muting function connect pin 23 of the SAA7220 to pin 11 of the SAA7210. Easy! I want to thank Ryan that first made the no-oversampling modification, Carlo that first made the muting restore trick and Recce for technical help. And this is the link: http://xoomer.virgilio.it/hi_fi/com.htm Lorenzo

Hi Jeff, could you measure the diameter and the length of one port? (It would be easy take that from the front of the motorboard). Thanks. Lorenzo.

I would increase the output of the K-22E and I need to know what can be the dimensions of a port (like the Cornwall)in the Heresy's cabinet. Can anyone help me? Lorenzo.

You are fantastic. That is all I need. Newly thank you very much. Lorenzo.

Hi. I live in Italy and I don't find here the Cornwall speakers, so I decided to build them. I think to a Cornscala or original Cornwall, but I need all the exact measurements for the internal port. Thanks to anyone that want to help me. Lorenzo. P.S. :who knows the shipping costs to Italy for a pair? (I can go up to $ 500, so I figure a total amount of 600+500=1100 USD that is a reasonable price fo Europe). Lorenzo.

Ok. I'm going to build a Cornwall cabinet and I need to know the exact dimensions of the internal port. Can anyone tell me that measurements. Thanks. Lorenzo.

Thanks Frzninvt, I needed that because I would build a Cornscala (BEC) and I wanted know if I can use my modified type AA network for that drivers (but I think the K-57 and K-59 are different beasts respect to the K-77 and K-55). Lorenzo.

I have seen, in an italian forum, a guy that sell a pair of Cornwall (the year is 1993) and I need to know if those use the K-77M, K55M and K-33E drivers. Thanks. Lorenzo.

Bob, I haven't understood why I can't use the same caps of type A (13 and 2 uf) for a 400Hz cut. It would be necessary to change (on the type A) only the taps in the TA2. Why have you changed the 13uf cap with a 7uf one? I am building the Cornscala with the Cobraflex because I haven't the K-400 horn. Thanks. Lorenzo.

Hi Bob, I'm starting to build the cornscala. Do you can tell me the exact dimensions of the bass cabinet (included the port size)? Thanks. Lorenzo.

From my experience the Heresy need definitely a good sub to sound at their best. I have a DIY Shiva MKIV and the sound is fantastic. I never liked my heresy without the sub. Lorenzo.

Trey, you have to tell us the result of your work. We want know how sounds the AK-4 compared to old Klipsch's networks.

I have noticed a great attention around the new AK-4 network but I still expect objective impressions and principally the sonic differences among old and new Khorns (from who have heard the two systems).

I have noticed a great attention around the new AK-4 network but I still expect objective impressions and principally the sonic differences among old and new Khorns (from who have heard the two systems).

OK. The type AA must sounds different from an AK-4 network. Now I would know what are the sound differences among these two options: 1) AA type with K55-V 2) AK-3 type with K55-M I can build the 1 or the 2 starting from my AK-2 network. Thanks.

Dean, HDBRbuilder follows your reply and writes at this address: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=53513&sessionID={4938BE2B-7D57-41D9-BF47-FFD35A2E2CA1}&pageNo=2&num=30 "Dean, The introduction of the AK2 network did NOT follow a change in drivers. It was the other way around...the change in drivers followed the network change...remember...I was still there in 83 when the AK2 was adopted...it preceded the mid-driver change by a number of months...but I believe it was adopted in anticipation of the driver change, even though the AK-2 network was developed a year or so before it was actually adopted. Even if she has the NON K55V drivers in her K-horns, going back to the AA network and going back to the K55V's will STILL be cheaper than going forward for a complete AK4 package upgrade...and will accomplish about the same AUDIBLE results...IOW, it will make her K-horns sound better with tubes or tube-like-in-sound-performance solid-state units than the current AK-2 networks she has. Remember, one of the main reasons for the conversion to the AK-2 to begin with was to align the performance of K-horns and LaScalas with the available contemporary amplifier designs of that day (early to mid 1980's), since those high-powered S/S amplifiers is what people were buying to power their equipment at the time. The AK-2 was considered by many at the time of its introduction as being overly bright in the mid-range for K-horns and LaScalas (I remember when the change occurred, and I ALSO CONSIDERED that performance to be overly bright with the AK-2's installed!). As a matter of fact, the AK-2 was way more complicated than it had to be, considering what little gain in HEARD performance it may have had with certain solid state power amplifiers of that time period! The proof is in the listening, though. Since most of you on this thread are pushing tubes for amplification, then the crossover/component package in her K-horns SHOULD be the one that performs best with tubes or solid state that sounds tube-like, IMHO...and she has already mentioned her $1,000 limit, so I am giving her a suggestion on investing less than that instead of almost TWICE that amount in order to get better performance from her K-horns with tubes. Pretty simple! I go by what my ears HEAR (or have heard), not by what specs tell me my ears are SUPPOSED TO HEAR, when I make these suggestions. No matter how one looks at it, the AK-2 was NOT a great crossover network for use with tubed components(or with any really good-sounding solid-state components, IMHO!)! Both the AA with its drivers, and the AK-4 with its drivers, will eat the lunch of the AK-2 equipped models any day of the week in overall HEARD performance using tubed equipment! But the cost of backtracking from the AK-2 to the AA set-up is about half the cost of going from the AK-2 to the AK-4 complete package!...and backtracking to the AA will require at the most just mid driver and network changes...no tweeter changes needed...no H/F motorboard mods or mid-horn changes needed, either. See what I mean now? I was NOT referring to the AK-3, just the current upgrade (AK-4)or the other viable option for tube use (AA or A). Good used K55V's regularly go on ebay for around 100 bucks a pair...sometimes less...most of them coming from gutted Heresys. A good used pair of AA networks go for around 200 or less on ebay quite often...send em to Bob Crites for new caps and wires...and for under one grand you have the conversion done!...Compared to the $1800 AK-4 conversion package!" If this is true I can transform my Type E (in my Heresy) in a type A only with the substitution of the 2 ufcap with the 13uf cap (present in the AK-2) and inserting the K55-V (from my Heresy) in my Khorns.

It's incredible. After many years and changes in parts and crossovers the results is: +++++ the old AA system with the K55-V driver sounds like (or is comparable to) the actual AK-4 system with its drivers. If many of you can confirm this, I'll cannibalize my old Heresy to modify my Ak-2 Khorns in a AA system (with K-55V). But what changes in sound can I expect after this work? I use SET amps.