jwc

Now just to let you know my schematic will work for a properly tuned K33, here are some of my calculations. The area of the port openings are the same as the 84' and 77' Cornwall. The port volume is the same as well.

Found those schematics of the Tall Cornscala. This is a sketch of the front with the motorboard. It has 4 openings. Note the internal width of the bass bin in 17 inches. The K401 or Trachorn would need to be vertical as previously discussed. The tweeter and mid horn would be side-by-side. Yes you could use the Beyma CP25 or JBL 2404H. If the cabinet were made to accomiadate the mid horn horizontally, you are now at about 20 inches wide to make it work well. If you are gonna do this, might as well trash the TALL idea.

Bill, I did just what Bob suggested. Got some Klipsch E and B's from Ebay fpr cheap. Just gonna change over some caps for the initial try, Then upgrade to some crazy stuff. If you have La scalas, you won't need to spend much to get a Cornscala project going. Heck just build one and tranfer the drivers and network from the La scala. Then you can A/B compare the Cornscala with the La Scala. If you didn't like the upgrade, trash the wood and then change the XO back to the original specs. Bob..nice analogy. Dean..I ordered one of those books...Thanks. Maybe I can get through it this weekend. jc

Very nice, and thank you. Actually, I have a design for that Tall Cornscala. In order to do that, as you know, the width of the port and motorboard has been compromised. I think that it still can be done. Nice to see others interested in this concept. There is no doubt in my mind that the Cornscala is a big step! I am working with others with great interest to even improve this idea. My project was to keep a PWK-like design and improve it. Yes indeed it did. This design to me is the REFERENCE for future designs. Now I can swap/change things. Such as the Trachorn. Also, changing networks is a snap with a HF section. No opening a cabinet over and over again to test things. On this forum, time and time again, people would discuss the advantages and disadvantages of a Cornwall vs a La Scala/Belle. The Cornwall would always lose in one category only...the midrange. The La Scala has a mid bass that is hard to beat...but the low end on the Cornwall is even HARDER to beat. Well, now that Cornwall can't lose in my opinion. It just took a different cabinet and a cheap midhorn at $50 (K401) to do that. Upgrade for Cornwallers is easy. Just keep the same drivers and network for starters. Sell those K600's on Ebay for way more than you would have to pay for the K401. Please, let us know of your plans when ready. If you have been reading in the updates and modifications thread, there are many ideas/things you can do for the Type B network design. When I get the chance, I will post the Tall Cornscala. Just need to get it out of this pile of other plans. Yes, it has the same volume port, same port opening, same bass bin volume. Probably is more wife appealing. jc

Bob, Very nice demonstration with the graphs. It is kinda cool to see MY B-3 rebuild shown here on this thread. Anyway Got a question regarding those later networks such as the AL-3 and B-3. I noticed on your graphs that the woofer had a "greater" negative slope or falloff in voltage compared to the earlier networks. I assume this is from a transition to a low pass filter that is second order...is that right?

Michael, My goodness. I thought I was getting a little crazy. So your'e gonna have 5 Corns and two Double Baas Bin (dbb) La Scalas. When you say upgrade from a Type B to a B2 or B3, how would you know this is an "improvement". Just because it is going to a second order, doesn't necessarily mean it would "sound" better. I understand the difference between the two. Howeveer, It may have a different "sound". I'm not speaking from experience here. There are a lot of things on paper that may seem to be a logical way of improvement but may not necessarily be so. Of course, I will never doubt PWK and his "improvements". Just a thought. By the Way, I just gotta know how you are driving those DBB La Scalas. I like the idea of changing the low pass inductor to 1.25 uH and running the bass bins in parallel.

Man I am thankful for those links. Heck, I flew to Kansas City last weekend and was looking all over Barnes and Noble for ANY book regarding speaker building or crossovers. They thought I was nuts (come to think of it, I might be). Oh, Yes, I am playing with the Cornscalas. There is a lot of space in the HF section. I would doubt there is any problem with where the inductors are sitting. There fine. I started to imagine me putting a 10 AWG in the cabinet of a Cornwall. That inductor sits right by the Magnet of a K33. Was thinkin, that might be bad. So was just wondering if I built a pair of B's, I might need to be careful where that inductor would sit.

Hey Dean, I was wondering if I may have problems with that big 10 AWG. Are you aware of any "conductance protectors" that will keep those big inductors from interacting with adjacent metals. For example, can you cover the inductor with a "rubber wrap"? Also, I've noticed a "polarity" switch comparing the "B" network with the "B2". I'm refering to the way the Sqwuaker and tweet are hooked up. It appears on the B2 that the caps are in series with the "-" and the opposite on the B and B3. Am I hallucinating here. May I need to post the schematics to show what I am talking about. I had read that when you move to 2nd order networks that sometimes you switch the polarity to change the "phase". jc

If there was anyway you knew whether your new drivers didn't have the "Glitch", I would remove it. By the way, do you know if your older ones have the "glitch"?

---------------- On 6/16/2005 2:32:57 PM Al Klappenberger wrote: Guys, Anyone building the ES400T will probably want to pair it with the 6000 Hz crossover section of my universal network. That's everything but the 2.4 mH coil, and the 39+1 uF caps. The transformer could be mounted on either network. Al K. ---------------- Al, I think you lost me with the above statement. You mean I could build the ALK universal "A" w/o the low pass section and use this with the ES400T? Explain please. jc

Todd, I don't know the "real deal" but I can waste a little of your time. 1. Here are the cap changes as the networks progressed: Type B, 4uF and 2uF Type B2, 20uF, 3uF, and 2uF Type B3, 70uF, 5uF, and 2uF 2. Also the inductor value changed on the low pass and inductors were added to the mid and tweeter in parallel (2nd order?). A cap in parallel was added to the low pass as well. If I had to make a guess, I would bet that the mids after the K55 was retired were less sensitive. Also I would bet that the tweets after the K77 were less sensitive. 3. The tap settings on the B and B2 were the same. They changed on the B-3. Now I didn't answer your question directly because I know you want to know if you could use ony of those networks with either the K52, K55 and K57. As a novice and a rookie, I would have to say they are not interchangeable. jc

Thanks a Mil Dean I changed the above schematic with what you recommended for the P trap. Yeah, that woofer inductor on my ALK is humongo but beautiful. I figured if I use the 10 AWG inductor, I will either use a seperate board or mount it vertically on an upright board like Al is doing with his ES networks. Mount it to the "outside" of the upright board to prevent interference. jc

Does this look right? The 10 AWG inductor for the woofer may be too much, I know.

---------------- On 6/15/2005 11:49:32 AM Frzninvt wrote: Uh oh DeanO, am I going to have to modify the network? That I can do if need be. You have my home & work phone #'s right? ---------------- Hey Frzninvt, If you want to sell your P-Traps, let me know. I 'm gonna put up a schematic of what I may do here.

Nice! This is what I need. Looks like Dean used the Thetas for all the caps...Including the P trap....Is that right? The spades you used...are they #8? The inductor isn't Solen. Is that one of the Iron Cores? This is what I am looking for. This looks like a Type B made as "best as it could be". Even your internal cabinet wiring is good quality. I read you got yourself some K55's from Ebay. If that is the case, you don't need the P-trap do you? Nice post jc

Both great amps. I was considering getting the Rogue setup at one time since I had read so many reviews on how great they are. I don't think you are gonna get a reply from anyone with an A/B comparison of those two amps on the cornwall. I'm sure either will do great and there will be those jealous of you as well. jc

Yes, I will concur Dean. I'm sure I'm gonna waste some money too. But that is OK. It is just for learning. Any suggestions appreciated. I think I may piddle with the P-Trap as well. Read the previous threads on this; seems the quality of parts for this is not necessarily that important. By the way, again, those ALK B's you made for me are great. Question about ALK B's while on the subject. I thought I read somewhere that AL designed that network with his Cornwall (at the time) that had a K-57 driver and a K-77 tweeter. Is this right? I know that the few that have that network are using it with a K55 and K77 driver (like myself). If anyone out there is interested in the ALK B, Dean does a great job. As said before about networks, "you get what you pay for". jc

Not sure about that. Dean can build the ALK B for you as he did for me.

Thanks for the reply. As you can see in my above system, I already have a pair of ALK B's. Yes, they are fantastic. My intention is to do some experimenting. I want to rebuild a "nice" pair of B's first and then I want to make some adjustments to accomidate different drivers/horns. Any suggestions/experience would be appreciated jc

---------------- On 6/14/2005 3:31:25 PM boom3 wrote: I'm not sure which mystery you're referring to. It seems the Qes is a tad high for a wide-band bass horn, generally, Qes should be below 0.25 or so. They would probably be fine in a Cornwall cab. ---------------- Hey Boom, I'm a little slim on the Qes understanding. Explain to me why you think it should be less than 0.25 Thanks jc

I have seen this oofer before and it crossed my mind as a replacement. However, didn't like the higher Fs. Also lower Les. Sensitivity and Freq response on the mark. I bet the port volume of the Cornwall is too large for it. If you look at the recommended cabinet options for the 15 inch woofers, they typically recommend a 2 port option that is only about a volume of 150-300 square inches. The Cornwall port volume is 713 sq. inches. I would be interested in hearing the results. jc

check yo email

I will soon have 3 Type B networks to tinker with. In plan to try different options for speakers such as Cornwall, Cornscala and a new type of speaker I will build in the fall. I haven't messed with networks before, so I want to start with the basics. Below are the options for replacement of caps and inductors for a Type B design. I want a "great" Type B before I start to make changes to the design. I'm not looking for a cheap options. Let me know what you think. jc AUDIOCAP PPT THETA 4.0uF-200V FILM/FOIL CAPACITOR http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=027-728 <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> AUDIOCAP PPT THETA 2.0uF-200V FILM/FOIL CAPACITOR http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=027-724 Solen 2.4 mHy of #14 AWG Part # S142.4 2.4 mH .36 22x45x89 Any experience/reason to use an inductor with #12 or #10 AWG? If you were to upgrade the wiring on the network, what would you use? Any particular recommendation for spades? Should I use gold?

---------------- On 6/13/2005 9:48:39 PM BS Button wrote: both ran downstairs...scared to death. No ringing, however. And without Dynamat or rope caulk. ---------------- Ahh, must be the outdated filter in the pharynx.....or better yet, may need to change the tap on your vocal cords.

For others who are building a cornwall, you may find the above mentioned thread helpful. However, from a build standpoint, it may not be enough. I ended up buying a pair of Corns to better understand the build. I have an FTP server with pics of my Cornwall refinishing project. It also includes documents such as a list of wood panels that your can take to Home Depot and have them cut for you. You would just need to cut the 3/4 inch strips of wood yourself in the store. These are the "mounting" pieces. You would have to "jig" the openings in the motorboard. The reason I have all this stuff is because I built me a pair of Cornscalas and I had to understand the Cornwall inside and out. ftp://www.jwcullison.com/Cornwall/ Personally, I wouldn't consider building a Cornwall after hearing a Cornscala. It is the same cost! Same drivers! Also more versatile for tweaking. Now if you want a PWK original built by you...I can understand. jc