bhendrix

I'm experimenting with a pair of 1983 Cornwalls. K33, K77, K52 with B-3 crossover. I removed the K52 mid driver from the 600 horn (plugged the horn) and installed it in a 400 horn (with 10" x 23" motorboard) on top of the Cornwall. My objective was to listen to the difference between the 400 and the 600. It seems that, with the stock B-3 in both cabinets, the 400 has more depth / fullness compared to the 600. It also seems the 400 is a bit louder than the 600. This seems to make the 400 Corn unbalanced compared to stock. It seems the mid needs to be padded down a bit. Does this perception seem reasonable? What difference, in theory, should the larger horn (400) make compared to the 600, when all other factors remain constant? I know that this little experiment doesn't take full advantage of the 400 because the crossover has not yet been modified. Once the crossover is modified to 400Hz, will the squawker have to be padded down at the autoformer to balance to sound? Should K52's even be run at 400, or would a K55 be better? Thanks, Friends!!

I feel your pain, Michael! I have two KG-based HT's, an all-Heresy HT, an all-Cornwall HT, a Chorus/Forte HT, and K's, Corns, and LaScala's in another AND I still find myself constantly on ebay, audiogon, and craiglist looking for the next great deal. This doesn't count the various parts I've accumulated to build CornScala's. You have inspired me to do some house cleaning . . . May the force be with you . . .

We used to stack K-Horns in the front with LaScala's flying in the rear for Disco's and dance clubs, all driven with McIntosh. That was bass!!

Thanks, Doc!! Unfortunately, toe-in will not be possible using the K-401. It would be if I used the K-600. This room is 18'-8" wide by 29'-0" long with an 8' ceiling. The cabinets are on the short wall and the speakers (cabinets) are 10' on center. HereScala in the center. The listening position is 17' from the cabinet faces. This room is currently my All-Heresy HT. The Heresy's sit in the cabinets now. The cabinet interior is 20 1/2" wide x 34" tall x 24" deep.

I'm going to use Cornwall components with a K-401 to make built-in CornScala's in existing built-in cabinets for HT. The cabinets are constructed from furniture grade 3/4" ply and will permit the same volume as a Cornwall cabinet. The built-ins are slightly taller and slightly narrower than the standard Cornwall. The widest I can make the port opening is 19". What should I do for port height and shelf depth? Thanks!!

Hey, Doc, I'm going to use Cornwall components with a K-401 to make built-in CornScala's in existing built-in cabinets for HT. The cabinets are constructed from furniture grade 3/4" ply and will permit the same volume as a Cornwall cabinet. The built-ins are slightly taller and slightly narrower than the Cornwall. The widest I can make the port opening is 19". What should I do for port height and shelf depth? Thanks!!!

JC, Is this the same design you used for the CornScala?

JW, What did you use for a crossover in your HereScala?

Lynn is probably with Paul Klipsch in heaven tonight listening to a choir of heavenly hosts through a pair of golden K-Horns. Rest in Peace, Lynn

Tom, I, too, was concerned about too much "bleaching", but the "two tablespoons per pint" formula seems to be mild enough to remove the stain without removing the natural color of the walnut. If the wood came out too light, I was going to use some of the Watco Walnut Danish Oil mixed with the "unflavored" Danish Oil to restore the color, but it wasn't required.

Sorry, no pics. My college daughter ran off with me camera.

I bought a pair of 1983 CWL Cornwalls on ebay last week for $375 BIN. The finish on the cabinets was badly damaged by water from potted plants. There were black rings and stains and the lacquer had turned white. The cabinet edges and surfaces, surprisingly, were undamaged. I removed the factory-applied lacquer with lacquer stripper, a scraper, and lacquer thinner. I was left with badly stained raw walnut with black rings and black streaks. The stains are caused by the reaction of the iron in the tap water with the tannic acid found in higher concentrations in oak, cherry, mahogany, and walnut. I used a solution of 2 tablespoons of Oxalic acid to one pint of warm water to remove the offending stains. Oxalic acid is unique in that it will remove a certain type of stain formed when iron and moisture come into contact with tannic acid in the wood. A black stain is formed when the wood gets wet with tap water (tap water contains iron as a trace mineral). A wet glass or leaky vase left on these woods will produce a black ring. Oxalic acid will remove this discoloration without affecting the natural color of the wood. I applied the solution with a cheap paint brush and allowed it to dry. After four applications, the stains were completely gone. I neutralized the acid with a solution of two tablespoons baking soda per pint of warm water. I then cleaned the surface with distilled water and allowed it to dry. To make sure the stains are completely gone (after the wood was dry) I wiped the surface with mineral spirits to simulate an oil finish. No stains!! (If you still have stains, apply more oxalic acid.) This process will tend to raise the grain of the wood slightly. Careful sanding with a very fine grit sandpaper will smooth and clean the surface. I chose to refinish the cabinets with oil instead of lacquer. I used Watco Danish oil and the results were spectacular. I now have oiled walnut Cornwalls that will fetch the highest value, and no stains.

Bonzo, your story brings back memories of my son, a can of orange spray paint, and lacquered walnut Heresy's (no rain though). An application of lacquer stripper removed the offending orange paint and the lacquer. Applications of Watco Danish oil restored the walnut to a finish better than the original lacquer, IMHO. This process may cure your water damage, too. If yours are oiled walnut, and stripper won't remove the silver, sanding and painting with black lacquer will provide a nice finish while allowing you to continue to enjoy the wonderful Forte sound. I can only wait til I have grandkids. . .

Yes, Michael, you and I do share a Cornwall in common, or at least parts of one. To answer your question about mains and rears, it depends on which room. One room is all-Heresy 5.1. One room is K-Horns and Corns. Another room is Chorus II, Forte II and KLF C-7. In the last week I've purchased a pair of abused LaScala's for $225 (blown tweeters), a pair of CBR's for $325 (missing one crossover, all drivers work), Cornwall components from Rick, a mint pair of 1990 walnut Chorus II's, and tonight, the '83 CWL's. I guess I'll have to add to my list. I'm going to start building a CornScala/HereScala 5.1 setup for a church camp. I'm going to build the speakers into the room so they don't grow feet and run away in the night. I'm going to have some of the high school kids participate in the building and wiring of the crossovers. This should be a good teaching opportunity as well as a chance to expose them to Klipsch! Bob Crites is going to help with crossover parts and design. I'm still trying to figure out how to pad down the top end to match the lower efficiency of the woofer cabinets. Michael, you better go find some more speakers. I'm going to catch up with you . . .

Yes, indeed! I got them! The guy lives about 3 miles from me. Now, to see if they work as advertised . . .

It didn't sell. The reserve was not met.

Can anyone recommend a simple, inexpensive CAD program to use for cabinet (CornScala) design and layout? I use 3D Home Architect 4 for room and building layout, so something like that would be terrific. Thanks, friends!

Hi Jay, You have PM. Thanks!

How does the RSW-12 stack up to the RSW-15?

How would you realign the cabinet, Doc?

Doc, do the port characteritics (tuning) stay the same if the port area and length remain the same? For example, would it work if the new port were a few inches narrower, but the port heigth slightly higher, maintaining the same total area and length (volume)?

Thanks, Michael. Did you get the LaScala's??

If one were to build a narrow version of the cornwall (cornscala), what are they design elements of the port that must be maintained? If the port is more narrow, can it be taller as long as port length is maintained? On factory Cornwalls, the port opening in the motorboard is a smaller area than the port itself. Which is the important measurement, motorboard opening area, or port area? Is there any advantage or disadvantage to the ports exhausting on the side of a K-Horn-shaped cabinet ( or like JW's DBB Cornscalas)? I tried to search for these questions tonight, but the search engine is only returning posts from today. Sorry . . . Thanks for your counsel !!

I picked up a sinlge 1983 ("y" serial number) CBR at a pawn shop and it has a K-52 mid driver instead of a K-55. Is this original or has someone been messin' around?

Hi Mick, You have PM