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rcarlton

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Posts posted by rcarlton

  1. I'm running my MC250 in mono to the center channel. Had to bridge it in order to run in mono. Seems there are two ways to run MC250's in mono, depending on the serial number.

    Version SN21L98 to SN23L47 ties the 16 ohm taps together when the
    switch is set to mono, version SN10L01 to SN21L97 does not tie them
    together and requires the external jumpers.

    MC250 for 100 Watts mono.

    1-switch on panel to MONO

    2-Feed input to right channel input and use right gain to set level

    3-for 4 ohm speaker tie 8 ohm taps together, tie commons together, and feed speaker from 8 ohm to common.

    4-for 8 ohm speaker tie 16 ohm taps together, tie commons together and feed speaker from 16 ohm to common.

  2. Waited a couple of months for the lacquer to cure. Finished one speaker, sanded with 320, 400, 600, 800, 2000 and rotten stone with paraffin oil. I used mineral spirits for the other grits of wet/dry paper. Finished off with paste furniture wax. The second speaker is waiting on the tops lacquer to cure enough to finish it, about another week to go.

    post-18740-13819437956736_thumb.jpg

  3. I've had real good luck using raw veneer on small projects such as cabinets and wood cases. Always have small problems with larger projects like Heresy's and Cornwall's. Checking and occasional bubbles. With oily woods like Rosewood, I have not found a good glue to use. I am considering hide glue next. I have enough Santos Rosewood veneer left to do a pair of Heresy's.

    This is a picture of a wooden cabinet I made using Santos Rosewood and poplar. Semi gloss lacquer finish.

    post-18740-13819436283238_thumb.jpg

  4. I think the paperbacked would be easiest to use for a beginner (even for someone with experience). The raw wood can be fussy...checking has been the number one problem I have dealt with.

    With the raw Rosewood veneers,having used; Bubinga and Santos, consider not using the iron on method but rather contact cement. The moisture in the glue contributes to checking. Next time I will experiment with hide glue. Walnut burl using the iron on method has worked well. Seems to be veneer dependent. With something like the Cornscalas experimenting may cause too much frustration. Try the paperback. More expensive, but less headaches.

  5. Sanded the speakers with 320 wet dry paper and soapy water last week. Wasn't happy with the way the lacquer filled in some spots, so I added another coat of lacquer. It wasn't bad, just not perfect. They now have sanding sealer and 4-coats of brush on lacquer.

    The veneer was not as smooth as I would have liked. There were some highly figured areas in which it would be impossible to sand perfectly smooth (remember, I completely sanded the veneer off of one speaker on purpose and could not get it smooth without seeing the glue line). Looks as if the lacquer has filled these areas in perfectly now. Three more weeks of waiting for the lacquer to cure.

    I have the pie slice logo's all ready to go.

    Left to complete:

    320 wet/dry

    400 wet/dry

    600 wet/dry

    Pumice stone FF (cork sanding block)

    Rotten stone (felt sanding block)

    Wax

  6. I won't use anything but the Mobile Fidelity rice sleeves for my good LPs. Its worth the extra expense.

    Can you tell us why you won't use anything but MF rice sleeves? Did you have a bad experience with some other sleeves?

  7. I use a home brew mixture of 25% alcohol (90% pure kind), distilled water and a drop of dishwashing liquid. Use a Nitty Gritty brush and home brew liquid and clean at 45 rpm. Scrub both directions (Technics TT). Put it on the Nitty Gritty RC to remove solution. Turn it over and use the Perfection steamer with distilled water about 15 to 30 seconds. Flip the record and vacuum dry with the Nitty Gritty RC. Does a pretty good job. I protect the label with a plastic container cover. I like the idea of vacuuming away all the crud.

    BTW the Nitty Gritty makes a fair amount of noise.

  8. My understanding is that the digital coax cable can pass more information than the optical cable. For that reason I use coax. I think this will become more apparent with some of the HD digital formats, with less chance of a bottleneck in data transmission using the coax cable.

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