BiggerIsBetter

Yes, but in some rooms/situations you might wish that you could put part of the sock back on....that's were it gets "interesting". I would not assume that your caps are worn out, if they are leaking (or signs of leakage) that's a no brainer.

"In the end I'm hoping for more natural detail and clarity, and (unless I don't understand basic loudspeaker design) to not hear male vocals coming from all three drivers at the same time." Then you should go with one of the steeper slope designs from Dean or Al. You could certainly through in a few new metailized PP caps from parts express for little money....just don't expect magic unless your old caps were really worn out or you like bright.

The first mod should be to nail the backs on. I have done lots of mods, including new horns and I'm not really sure they even sound better. I would have to do a back to back to be sure, which is obviously impossible. I know everyone is sure all their mods have made great changes, but I wonder how many have done carful listening test versus those that just want to hear a positive change to justify the effort/cost. Ditto, leave them alone and listen to them for at least a few month. Congrats!

I would try some of those $10K transparent network cables. Seriously, there is a lot of info, not sure of any definitive conclusion, on the site. Try the search feature. Welcome. Audio classics has a great sale on Audio Quest bedrock, I use them so they must be the best.

I also think it is great. I just wish they had the dealer network so that "we" could actually listen to and touch them. Guess there's not a lot of high end dealers that want these big, and less ugly, speakers making all their much higher priced "high-end" stuff sound like crappy little boxes trying to yell at you through a small straw.

"With Klipsch you really only need a good 5 W Amplifier..." Unless it's an SET, then everyone will tell you that it does not have enough headroom, sorry I could not resist []

Yes, little speakers DO suck, but I have considered using the Platinum Audio trios (5 inch woofers) as "subs" for my Cornwalls. I am NOT joking, my Corns fall off like a brick at 63hz and my Trios are much better down to the high 30s. I also thought it would make a funny pic with those little woofers next to the Corns. My Trios are sitting in a corner unused as I like the Corns so much better...

I have tried a lot of different 6922 in my Audible Illusions L-1 and AR amps, including 6H23 from upscale audio. I could not tell that big of a difference between any of them. I would be very cautious of the amperex. There are a lot of different variations and maybe I am just unlucky but I have had terrible success with them. Most all were from ebay, but from a number of different sources. Of the 30 or so that I have had, around 25 have ended up gassy after a short amount of use and I have had one major circuit failure that I believe the tube accounted for. And, I did not hear anything special to warrant the risk. Again, most all of mine had questionable backgrounds so I am not condemning the entire brand...but don't expect to get ones of ebay that are cheap and will last. It may be that there are of lot of used amperex tubes that had a hard prior life in HP scopes.... If you do use them, make sure you have a tube tester and test them often. P.S. I am aware that the AI runs the 6922 hot and the amperex is not recommended. Most of the tubes/failures I am referring to occur in my amp and phono preamp, in addition to the AI preamp.

"Next... Heresys - might need a strut in back to keep them from falling backwards" Great idea. I forgot to mention, the horn also acts as a cabinet stress member and does away with the cabinet resonance issue...and add on bonus...all for FREE [] I was thinking of calling them Cornholios, but I was not sure if we can say that here []

I don't have Khorn, but didn't think you needed to open the base bin to get to the crossover in order to switch the connections. Though they are heavy, that should not take more than a few minutes. I did forget the other option. By switching the polarity of both you are verifying that both mid are in the correct phase with the woofers (or as best as possible for your crossover type). You should also switch the polarity of just ONE mid (doesn't matter which one). This will verify that both your mids are in phase with each other. If there is a wiring mistake, may be more likely that it only occurs on 1 side. In either test, you are looking for flatter (i.e. more output in the xover region). If you do get flat output, either sit back and enjoy or dig further to identify the cause.

You would have to check a lot of thing to make sure the polarity is "correct." Again, the simplest way is to just switch the mids and listen measure. Don't think, don't analyze, just switch red and black on the mids output. IF, you get better response through 400-600ish hz, i.e. more output without that big dip, then you had a polarity issue and you can dig further to figure it out. It will not hurt anything, and it's free. I just think that it is too much of a coincidence to have that large of a gap in that region to be purely room. I may be wrong, switch the wires and 10 minutes will tell......

So for example, with a type B, if you change the AT position to the tweeter, it will change the value it see from the mid (before the AT) cap. I could see where that would change the total capacitance seen by the tweeter. I would wonder by how much and whether it would be significant given it's a first order and most of the rolloff if occurs due to the driver anyway. I bought my speakers from a guy who got them from the original owner, who said they were stock and swore they were never opened up. When I took a look, the polarity to both mids was reversed and the tweeters were out of phase with each other. "Strange" things can happen. Strangest thing is, I am not convinced that they sounded better after I corrected all of the polarities [] It's free and easy, there is certainly a problem in the crossover region and if room optimization does not take care of it, she will have to try something....that will likely involve crossover changes anyway. "I'll take some pics of our x-overs & the wireing before putting in Ricks. I've yet to open this bass bin door, etc. I couldn't find diagrams/pictures to compare to to see if things are right." Even if they look "right", switching the polarity of the mids (most simply at the terminal strip on the XO out to the mid driver) will not hurt anything and will give you are real quick way of getting the answer.

OK, I read ALL of the pages this time. You clearly seem to have a suckout in the low/mid crossover region and your listening impression certainly support that. I am not up on the AA, or who modified it and how. BUT, I would simply try reversing the polarity of the mids and redoing the measurements (looking at 400-600 hz) and listening. Someone may have inadvertently changed the polarity when modifying a crossover (i.e. like forgetting to change the polarity of the mids/high when migrating from a B-2 to a , your drivers may be incorrectly marked, or hook up, or??? Bottom line is it is very easy to swap the mids polarity (at the crossover) and give it a listen. My highs also measure 'bright' and sound bright. While I appreciate all of the very technical explanations for this, I am getting ready to simply start experimenting with AT settings. Sometime I think we can make things too complicated, either that or I am not capable of overly technical solutions. []

sorry did not see the last pages of psots, nothing to add

I also don't think the crossover change made a significant difference, more the horn. The back cover is just a very close fit, with the caulk to seal any gaps. It should not be too hard to get the backs off, but with the mid driver and crossover outboard, I hope there is little need to open them back up. The 401 is mounted to the motorboard with 6 screws, just like the 600s. The backs also support the horn so it's a good tight fit overall. I did hate to cut the cabinet, but I justified it by convincing myself that I could also revert them back to "stock" with a new back cover and motor board, glued to the original which would make them deco corns. [] Here's the side shot, they stick out around 11".

Done, sorry I originally got my 400 and 600s confused, cold and cold medicine induced. Let the flaming begin []

Best part is total cost was about FREE. A kind member provided the excellent 401s for $57 (shipped) and the 2 caps were around $7. I assume I can get that much for the 600s, if I sell them. Yes, the 400 horn is a LOT bigger and I am concerned about the cabinet volume reduction. I estimate that the change resulted in a net decrease of around .13 cuft. That should be a small percentage of the total volume. I did not hear a change for the worse in bass response, but the measurements did fall off a bit quicker in the extreme low (which is 63 hz in my room). The 400 horn is not louder than smaller 600, they measured about the same through the midrange. I am satisfied with the sound and think I have archived the goal, the "best" pair of heritage Klipsch speakers.....my room is not KHorn friendly.

Who says the 400 doesn't fit, fits like a glove.

Simple, but effective. I also like the inboard/outboard looks. I am not done with the crossovers. After trying a few different configs, I did settle on the simple B with the mid cap changed to 7. I still have some touch up work to do. I have some inductors on backorder from Parts Express, seems someone bought all the 2.5 mH super Qs.

An "original" Cornwall cabinet with a 401 horn? How is this accomplished?

I did feel like an 80's Klipsch factory worker while putting these together. The 400 is a LOT bigger than the 600. I did not realize how much bigger until I had the 2 side by side

The strange spots are flash artifacts, they actually look very factory like.

I could not get the photos any lighter with the free version of photoshop I have.

I don't expect the speaker design of the year award, but just could not justify building a new cabinet to incorporate the K401 horn into my cornwalls. What should these be called?[]

In calculating the SPL, you also need to account for listening distance. The 121DB at 64 watts, is at 1 meter. Every doubling of the distance takes 6DB. At 4 meters, that 12DB down, or 109DB, still VERY, VERY loud.