KT88
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Posts posted by KT88
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I can imagine that it could make a positive effect. But this way the UJ become more and more beautiful, and eventually my dear wife leaves me.🙄
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29 minutes ago, soundbound said:
You’re correct, Bob never called his crossovers upgrades, but Michael is entitled to his opinion.
I agree with what Bob thought. I find your opinion amusing too. I have Crites Sonicap capacitors crossovers in my Klipschorns and they sound great and everyone who listens to them agrees and many who have Sonicap capacitors in their Heritage likes them.
Most of them may never have listened to the „right“ capacitors to have a fair comparison against the Sonicap sound They just think it is good but it is not.. I can say that I had a BC AA xover as a replacement of my original AA bought in 2009 because the original caps were leaking. At that time I was not in DIY but now I am. That purchase was a big mistake. Not only that the original great sound is back since I replaced the Sonicaps against the right capacitors, also the autoformer was completely wrong in the BC xover, no comparison with the original T2A.
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On 11/1/2023 at 3:39 PM, bsacco1 said:
I recently acquired some vintage 1980 LaScala's. I immediately called Klipsch to order a pair of fresh K33 woofers.
The crossovers were tired and I think leaking so I upgraded the x-overs.
After listening to the speakers they seemed too bright and a bit shrill with a tab bit of distortion.
Is the answer as simple as Do I replacing my diaphragms in all my horns or is it a problem with the x-over?
Please advise.
I have the impression that many new owners of old vintage Klipsch speakers always act much too fast and are much too impatient. Replacing the bass chassis would be the least sensible thing to do. My 1977 bass chassis in my Lascala play like the first day. You should innovate a little more systematically. As DeanG says, first swap the caps for polyester types if the original Aerovox are damp. Later change the rubber rings between K55V and K400, they are mostly crumbled but very important for good sound. The diaphragms of the K55V could...later then maybe also be exchanged. The K77M tweeter should be completely ok if they are still original. You can remove one of the diodes in the tweeter circuit to open this circuit. There is not much more to do. Maybe you can reseal the bottom plate with insulating tape to be able to drive the K33 full bass. Many new owners are not only impatient but they are doing way too much. Worst if you do everything at the same time.
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31 minutes ago, OO1 said:
can you post a picture of the lowered horns , I am not criticizing lowering the horns in any way , far from it , but I have never seen what it looks like tx
He already has
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We could arrange a date for the next spring if you like. I can send you my email as a PM. Yes, I know your area, very very nice in the Netherlands, I have every year a week with two old school friends for 18 years where we rent a boat in North Friesland. For Americans it is a distance like for us to get bread rolls....
@MicroMaraas well if you like.
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My current configuration. The Quad 606 I bought cheaply four months ago and installed new electrolytic capacitors, because I want to drive the bass with it and with a Quad 306 the K402 TAD. At the moment I have other projects, when the time comes and it is ready you are welcome to visit me, I probably have the only UJ in Germany.
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Very interesting what you write. BTW I think that the old not particularly filigree sounding K69 nevertheless least the treble beams because it is a real 2 inch driver. The Faital HF200 (actually looks like your HF20A) is also a genuie 1,4 inch driver but the adapter has a wide opening angle which suits the K402. Unfortunately, my best driver, the TAD4002 beams the most because it is actually a 1.4 inch driver and has a long low opening adapter piece to 2 inches which is more suitable for exponential horns.
Another point, if your passive xover is really designed for the Jubilee then you have to modify it if you want to use it for a Khorn. Because the Tractrix horns, unlike the K400, do not have a linear sound pressure curve. With your arrangement on the last picture (lowering the K402), have you entered additional time delay into the active DSP crossover? -
4 hours ago, OilyBoy said:
with Cologne you mean Koln?
What else😀
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On 10/31/2023 at 4:52 PM, OilyBoy said:
I have 3way jubs but i turned them in to 2way as advised by most of the forum members. I never heard the 3way fully dialed in since i was on my own at that time and did not have the know how about DSP and REW. So i used them whith a 3way passive xover from Werner Jagush and also with a DSP with the factory settings from klipsch. but all the magic was missing offcourse due to the lack of REW and tuning. By the time that Craig came over to do the REW/Xilica magic i allready turned them into 2way.
offcourse i kept all the parts and stored them. so i can turn them back into 3way anytime.
but i have to say that at this moment they sound magical and the soundstage is bigger than big so i dont see any reason to do that. and the upside is that they are a bit smaller (lower) now (not that size is a problem in my room).
if i could name one thing i like the least (or love a little less) about my current setup it would be the lack of real deep bass which by now i tackled by installing the THTLP subs and sometimes i miss a little agression in the form of bass punch from the jube LF bins. they dont move much air. everybody says the bass is the big difference with the Herritage jubes (no subs needed etc.) so i am very curious on that issue)
but i do have to say that my room is quite big, has a very high ceiling and i also have not done anything about soundproofing yet so i m not sure how good my acoustics are at the moment.
But Craig told me they sound awesome and come close to his system (which is a fully tuned sound proofed room)
sorry for my bad english. speaking is always easyer than typing.
OilyBoy, I have a Faital HF200 with a passive third party xover for my UJ. I do not know the Faital HF20AT. I googled it and it seems rather similar? I have the 16 ohm version. If the HF20AT is different who designed the passive xover for it, is it a one off? Active driven I use a TAD 4002 and a Yamaha SP2060 using Roys settings. I am in Cologne, not so far from your place? Do you still use your Faital driver actively now?
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About damping factor, autoformers and Mcintosh, also Nelson Pass comments.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/mcinformer.30240/
I wouldn't worry too much about damping factor, it leads to absurd technical values that have nothing to do with sound quality under normal circumstances. If damping factor was so extremely crucial then every tube amp on the planet which is not OTL would have to be thrown on the scrap heap.
Here you can read the relevance of DF from the professionals PA perspective, Wire length counts more to them than the DF of an amp.
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@BacekThank you for your responsible report. I think that one has to guard a Jubilee better so that no mistakes happen during such a important presentation. Too unfortunate if there is bad press just because of sloppiness.
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I would like to bring an example. My tube amps have a very nice sound in some respects. I won't go into details, but spaciousness, strings, airiness and much more...everything is wonderful. Especially with Klipsch speakers, my old LaScala.
But I want to balance my impressions a bit. For example, I really like that absolutely thick and powerful guitar tone of Jazz guitarist Pat Martino. His 1972 recording of "Road song" or "How intensitive" has a physicality and a powerful roundness over my Quad Transistor amps, especially my 606 Mk1, that none! of my tube amps can realize. I'm talking from 4 watt 6V6 single ended self build by a friend, Audion 300B 7 watt SET, Leak stereo 20 PP EL84, Quad2 KT66 PP, up to Mcintosh MC275 Mk4 KT88 and MC2101 8x KT88.
This is not to say that my Quad606 is better in every way, it is not. But I am saying that there is no such thing as the best...apart from the synergies. My meanwhile 30 years old Tannoy 15" Alnico Canterbury also have high efficiency but the crossover is a bit tricky and they were designed for mighty SS amps...unlike the very old Tannoy gold monitors from the early 60s with 16 ohm coils and 20 watt max handling which are happy with everything tube. Mine have been in the 70s under the designation HPD385 in the Abbey Road and Decca Studios in London in Lockwood cabinets always paired with Quad SS amps. Alan Parsons has mixed with them the "Dark side of the moon" for instance at Abbey Road Studios. So please, there is not only one side of a non plus ultra. Both can please us to the highest level, tubes and sand, even AB sand...with the right partners in each case.
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OMG…is it so long underway to you or is the dealer still waiting for it?
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1 hour ago, SpeedLimit said:
yes i have some amps ... collected during a few years (over 40 years).
I also have Proton AA2120, Hiraga 8W class A Monster (DIY), Yves Cochet AL2 (EL34 PP - a french tube (or valve i do not know how you call it) amp maker).
I tried Topping D Class amp, a little Musical Fidelity, a SAE 2200 power amp, a very old NAD 1020 preamp and some more.
Over 40 years of trying to find the good sound ..
In speakers, i had Onken with Iwata horn - jbl 2440 drivers, jbl 2405 tweeters, Fostex FT90h, T925, FT65, .. B&C drivers, Atlas sound pd-5vh when i tried to make La Scala clones, ect ect ..
now i am trying to have a simple and good working hifi system .. with Cornwall IV speakers, McIntosh amp, an old Sony CDP-X7ESD cd, a little Logitech squeezebox Touch streamer, a Topping dx7s dac that i will not more use when i will receive my McIntosh MA7200 amp.
When will your MC amp arrive? Just out of curiosity from where have you ordered, I guess somewhere in the EU? That money you say seems to be a brand new amp?
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14 minutes ago, henry4841 said:
You are right. This is after all a social media forum and not a technical one and the truth does not always matter. Lots of times it just comes down to who speaks the most and loudest.
I hope you don't mean me, I really appreciate all your posts very much Henry. I wasn't trying to reprimand anyone. I just put myself in the shoes of speedlimit with his momentary uncertainty whether he did the right thing.
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To be honest, I made my post yesterday a) because I stand by what I say and b) to reassure speedlimit somewhat that he is doing it right.
You guys are having a battle over the pros and cons of different amp concepts, but it shouldn't make speedlimit feel so insecure before he enjoys his purchase. -
5 minutes ago, ronajon said:
@KT88 thank you for your reply.
i mainly listen to Rock (metal) but my wife prefers classical, so there we have a difference when i comes to K77 or K77M. For now i think i would go for what is available.
Living in the Netherlands, it seems difficult to source components.
I'm tracking several sites (dutch and german marketplaces, ebay) for the tweeters, up until now the only ones i see are located in the USA. Unfortunately the shipping costs from there are quit high
i do not have much rush, but on the other hand i'm very curious how the speakers would sound with the correct tweeters in it
Do you know hifishark? It is a meta search engine for hifi gear. You can register and you get every day updates about that item you like to search from most hifi sites plus ebay etc from everywhere, even from marktplaats
hifishark.com
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@ronajon I would install as a tweeter what was installed in time. I do not know when the K77M came out. My 1977 LaScala have the round magnets of the K77 alnico. I also bought 1981 K77M sort of as a backup if something bad happens to the alnicos.
Advantage of the K77M: they retain their magnetic force forever.
Advantage of the old K77 alnico (my personal view). They sound very silky and fine in and out fade of strings, for me more emotional...if you like classical music.
Disadvantage of the old alnico K77, they can lose magnetic force over the decades, even with great probability. I had my K77 remagnetized in a special workshop in Mannhein, Germany. Before 12 Khz, after 16 khz and 1.5 dB louder. If you listen primarily pop, rock goes the K77M just as well in my opinion, for classical and jazz I would prefer the alnico. It seems that 1979 is pretty much on the edge of change.
One more thought on the diaphragms of the K77/K77M. There are replacement diaphragms offered, but all that are currently available are cheap and bad. If you buy K77(M) and they run, don't change the diaphragms. I had bought new ones (bad ones i didn't know) and the shop that remagnetized my alnicos was supposed to install them at my request. they got back to me and said that the old original diaphragms are much better...still. Of course you have to make sure that your purchase is really still original K77(M) May I ask where you live? -
13 minutes ago, SpeedLimit said:
Do someone know the damping factor of a McIntosh MA7200 ?
i wanted this kind of amp because they have output transtormers
I also have 300B valve amp, sounds good but not in the bass section.
I have a french EL34 PP valve amp, sound a little better in the bass.
I know that speakers with high efficiency do not need much power .. all of my amps sounds differently.
Now, i just wanted to try a McIntosh amp .. Have i made a bad thing by ordering such an amp ?
I don't know this type of Mcintosh amp personally, but I'm sure you didn't do anything wrong. Worst case scenario, you have a major brand amp that sells well over and over again. But more importantly, I think it will sound very good with your Cornwalls. I recently bought an old quad 606, just a little less power than your Mcintosh MA7200, but also a very powerful amp. It runs fantastic with my 1977 Lascala and also with the underground Junilee. With your Cornwall as a big bass reflex box, the control ability of the MA7200 also should have a positive effect. You can't say that a small tube amp is always better or that a powerful transistor is always better. It is the synergy of all components in every single case plus the room and your personal taste. Your MA7200 has to my knowledge even output transformers. Be confident and look forward to the amp. And take your time to get used to it. I am very curious about your impressions. You have done nothing wrong with this amp I believe. Enjoy it.
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5 hours ago, Deang said:
Don’t run the AA with the EV drivers or the Atlas two piece phase plug K-55-V.
AL-3 was the Klipsch upgrade from the AL. So why run the AL?
I am wondering about not using the Atlas two piece phase plug K55V with the AA Type because it was available ca. in 1981 when the Type AA crossover was still in production until 1983?
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Tell us about your impression and experience afterwards, Bacek.
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I always have the impression that the ears like it when you have transformers in the signal path somewhere in the chain. E.g. with tube amps the output transformers, or a step up for MC to MM inputs or e.g. an autoformer in the crossover of the old LaScalas. Why should a transformer in the signal not make the sound more pleasant? Another plus is that you can go with transformers in the signal path very problem-free from XLR to RCA and vice versa.
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just beautiful
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9 hours ago, Klipschianer said:
Hallo zusammen
Ich habe da mal ein paar Fragen an euch.
Ich betreibe ein 7.2 Set mit folgenden Komponenten.
Yamaha RC-V 685
Klipsch RP-8000 F
Klipsch RP-504 C
Klipsch RP-500 M
Klipsch RP-500 M
2x SVS SB 3000
Antimode 8033 S-IIIch überlege aber seit ein paar Tagen, ob ich nicht die Front austausche gegen 3x RP 600m, wobei sich mir die Frage stellt ob das überhaupt klappt.
Weil ich den Center dann Quer legen muss und da weiß ich nicht wie es ist mit dem Horn ,weil er ja dann anders strahlt!
Hochkant stellen geht leider nicht
Ich würde mich sehr über eine Antwort freuen und wünsche euch einen schönen Tag.
LG Sven
Hello Sven, welcome to the Klipsch forum. In this sense, there is no new introduction thread here in the forum as far as I know. But it would help a lot if you write your posts in English. Here is very good help for an understandable translation:
www.Deepl.com
For example, it translates your first question without me correcting it, except for deleting the German "nicht", which doesn't mean a negation at that point.You write:
„But I'm thinking since a few days, whether I should exchange the front against 3x RP 600m, whereby the question arises whether that works at all.
Because I have to put the center then transverse and I do not know how it will work with the horn, because it then radiates differently!
Stand on edge is unfortunately not possible
I would be very happy about an answer and wish you a nice day.“Genau so kannst Du die englischsprachigen Antworten von deepl zurück übersetzen lassen.
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Klipsch Heritage Jubilee vs. Underground Jubilee Upgrade
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I still haven't invited you because it's still not operational with the active crossover. Not because I didn't want to invite you. There were so many other things to do in the family. The passive version as it still is would not have been good enough to demonstrate. Feel free to think it over until spring. You are very welcome.