SGARD

<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I had a real budget issue when introducing a sub into my system and decided to look at a different solution I had a Parasound 5 channel amp of only 85 watt per channel (for less than $400 new) currently driving my rear and back surround in-wall Klipsch RCW-3 (at sub purchase the in-walls were BIC). This left me one extra channel of power not used when I was looking for an in-expensive sub. I found a Paradigm SB-110 sub with built-in crossover for satellites. The specs were not great at only expect 36 Hz (DIN) low endbut the price was right$55 off e-bay. I immediately used the sub pre-out to my amp and disconnected the crossover...running the monster cable speaker wire directly to the speaker. The sub is usually on the cheap because of the crossover built inso bypass it. I think I get a lower response bypassing the crossover anywaybut that cannot be verified. The SB-110 blends in with my current front arrangement of cheap Advent ($150pr @Costco) mains and a Paradigm CC-50 Center (I need a WAY better centerRC-64 HELP ME!) and RCW-3 surrounds and back surrounds. I have the down firing sub sitting in a big wicker basket with blankets on top (an aesthetic requirement of my wife) so no one can see it in the roomand everyone just about falls over when the room fills with sound and the only visible speakers are skinny little Advent towers. I have only $750 invested in all 7 channels combined and I can say the quality of sound and the depth of bass belie the small amount paid for the 7 channels of sound. Eventuallythe front 3 will be RB-81s and an RC-64 with a replacement sub yet undeterminedbut right nowfind me a better sub than a Paradigm SB-110 for $55$85 shipped?

Mark is correctbut there is one component here that may go unnoticed. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> The 2 paths show up in 3 prong devices. The 3 prong devices, if the circuits are properly installed, have 2 ground paths which in theory should both be the same potential ground. The hum will be audible the most in hi-current amps (like I experienced with my Parasound Amps) and three prong equipment. Many cable installers do not ground the cables because they are doing a quick job and those with HT in a Box will not likely notice. The reason for the hum and poor video could be equipment upgrade!

I have a few suggestions from my personal experience: <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> My first purchase of any home theater product was a Sony 1000 EDS (in 1991) and Sony power amps. Talking with the customer service/sales people, I do not know how many times I have heard about how terrible my first home theater purchase was. Sony is junkget rid of that crap and move up. I never purchased from a place which a salesperson ever spoke negatively of previous choices I have made as I find it very offensive. Also, I do not like to go into a high end shop and see the lower end cables which are exactly the same model as at a Best Buybut are 20% higher priced or more. All I can think of is how much I am getting ripped off for the items I am not familiar with and I end up shopping on the web. Overpricing the basic necessities of cables and wire will not advertise a decent price for the real equipment, but many HT store do just thatmaybe they think to the rich it does not make a difference so make a few extra on the cables. Here is the problem with that theory. I made 1/10th the income I make now when I purchased my first HT equipment. I now have the money to spend 10k on sound and another 5k on videowhich is small in comparison to many people herebut a good budget target for most HT stores. Likely I will never enter a door of a local shopthey lost my business years ago. My income will keep increasing and 10 years from now my next system will easily be in the 25k-50k rangebut I will likely not purchase from a brick and mortar store. Why? Because when I had little money generally most HT stores wanted to rip me off an extra 20% on speaker wire and inter-connects, so why should I support them now? Last but not leastCustomer ServicePeriod. Realistically there is no way to directly compete with a web based store on price aloneso customer service must be adaptive to the individual and must provide value for the experience. Here is an example of customer service. I have only made 1 purchase, 5 years ago, from a high end store around my area to be certain of the 10 year warranty (if the purchase went bad convincing the wife the value of more equipment would be difficult). In my opinionthe equipment has a 10 year warranty and the STORE should keep a copy of my purchase information for 10 years. I should NEVER need a receipt as the store should be able to easily provide it during my warranty period. If I ever have a problemthey look up the serial numbertell me it is under warrantyand if I have to pay a shipping cost or notand it is doneno customer provided paperwork needed ever again after I leave the door the day of my purchase. I have never had to return anythingbut that is a service every HT store can provide which will separate them from the paperwork nightmare of a BB. If I ever had an issue with the equipment I purchased at a HT shop and the return when flawlessI would be more willing to return. If it had even the smallest glitchthe warranty is what I went to them for in the 1st placeI would never return.

Leave the receiver at the 8 Ohm selection. Power (watt) = Current squared times resistance (Ohm). <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Speakers will fluctuate in resistance (Ohms) even as they heat upbut generally 8 ohm is what a receiver is engineered to have and will be made to handle a certain current to get a certain watt based on the expected resistance. By switching to 6 ohm on the receiver, a higher current value may be expected but the resistance (ohms) is still physically 8 ohm speakers. There would be a possibility of overloading the current in the receiverbut the receiver not shutting down properly because the current would still be within the 6 ohm rangebut outside what is expected for an 8 ohm range. This could damage the receiver. Basically your speakers determine the Ohmnot the receiverchanging the setting on the receiver will not change the actual Ohm.

Good answer. If you plan on a 5.1 (or greater) receiver, look for a receiver with pre-outs and then you can run the Adcom amp off the pre-outs for the front 2 speakers as long as no center channel is being used. If you plan to add a center channel, it may be difficult to get the center receiver channel to match the Adcom amp. It may be better to use a speaker selector and the Adcom for stereo only or retire the Adcom to a location with stereo only configuration.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />