longdrive03

In great condition (a few very minor scuffs). Fully functional and sounds great. 9 out of 10. $100 plus actual shipping charges from 72201 plus paypal fees. also have Rw-10d sub for sale in garage sale. Thanks.

Mdf will be very heavy but will work well. If you have access to 13 ply Baltic birch 3/4" plywood I would suggest you go that route. It is very stiff (and pretty heavy) but much better than the Home Depot plywoods that have voids and less plys. A sheet is $56 around these parts. You will have to veneer them to get them pretty. Good luck.

Thanks guys. Moray is a great yard man! I have had problems keeping a good chef so I'm always in the market. My wife likes that idea! The Savers was the one across from Sam's on Bowman. He goes by twice a day. He has the knack of finding deals. I redid (basically rebuilt) some Heresys for him a couple of years ago that were falling apart so he called me when he scored the C's.

Update, got the veneer installed, solid cherry corners, flush trim, roundover sanded and now ready to stain. Looking at stains tonight with the owner and we should have these done in about 10 days.

Moray, thanks for info on the horn and fiberglass. Can't wait to get this project completed.

Thanks. I saw the 800hz on the link but PE lists it at 700hz in the catalog. Anyway, I've always understood the cutoff is not an absolute number. I've used it at 750hz in a large heresy build and didn't notice any problems.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the compliments. Once I get going on a project like this I end up adding in more freebies than I should as I go along! My wife thinks I'm crazy and she's probably right! Moray, thanks to you for you help on the bracing and fiberglass damping suggestion. Do you use regular fiberglass (pink stuff HD sells?)? You mention "high density" fiberglass. Please educate me if I'm not aware of HD fiberglass and where to buy it. By the way Moray does great yard work!!!! He is a monster on the edge trimmer!!! Thanks.

Philly, good to see that you got new cabinets built to same same as KLF10's. It is possible to use another mid/tweeter driver on this horn. I think it will probably reproduce down to 800hz or so. You would have to totally redesign the crossover and buy a driver that will work from 800hz up to 17KHz. Those aint cheap but can be found. Maybe Faital, EV, or Selenium would work. Someone on the forum could help with xover design. You can start with the 116392 klipsch xover which uses a 1.5mh coil and 8uf cap on the woofer section with a reported xover of 2300HZ. I would suggest you add more bracing to this build since the 10's aren't known for excessive bracing. I would add bracing to the inside of the motor board between the woofers and between top woofer and horn. I would also add front to back bracing if possible. I can't tell if the back is removable but it would be a lot easier to do if it is. I would use 3/4" hardwood x 2.25" wide and countersink screws to make sure they don't penetrate front of cabinet. I'm redoing some Cornwalls now and just finished adding bracing everywhere I could. You won't regret it.

Thanks guys. Yes, DJK is correct. The sides and tops were not "plywood" in the normal sense. They are lumber core (or wood core) where the center of the board is solid wood planks joined together and then veneered on each side. I cut out a 3/4" x 3/4" channel on each of the four corners from front to back to insert solid wood trim that will cover the edge of the veneer. It will look similar to the pics when finished with roundover on the edges. I used the Dayton K812 horn from PE (270-304) on these cause I had then handy. I hated to do all this work and keep the small stock mid horn since I had the chance to use bigger horns. Here is link below to the horns. I've used them in other applications. They are bolt on so I made a wooden connect plate to bolt to the horn with a female screw in adapter. Here is a pic from last night showing front trim applied (except for bottom which I'll do tonight). After that I attach the four top and bottom corner edges then flush trim, roundover, and sand. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-h812-1-exponential-horn-100x60-2-bolt--270-304

Schu, I have "modified" them by cutting a large mid horn hole and adding interior bracing on the sides, interior side of motor boards and front to back bracing. I also removed the outer layer of veneer on the bottom of the bottom (not plywood - wood core). I also cut 3/4 x 3/4" channels on the top and bottom from front to back where solid cherry will be inserted over the edges of the veneer. I installed corner 45 degree cleats to hold the corners in place after cutting the channels. I inserted a brace in the middle of the slot port. I also cut off the front lip to allow the new cherry lip to be installed over the now veneered motorboard. I installed magnets under the veneer on the motorboard to allow the new grill frames I will build to attach without ball and socket or Velcro. Filled in 1/2" whole for rca plug on the back and cut out new terminal hole towards the bottom. I will install Crites CT125 new tweeters and Crites "B" network cap redo kit. I'll also attach a built in riser on the bottom. Other than that not much.

Update on progress. I got all the prep work done, cut the new larger mid horn hole, did some bracing on the inside, and veneered the top, sides and motor boards on both speakers. I'm applying solid cherry front edge and top corner trim now.

I would think attaching 3/4" mdf to the side panels would reduce the vibration and also add a lot of weight. I'm stunned that the 1985 cornwalls I'm redoing have no bracing at all in the large panels. Another way to front mount the grill would be to use high strength magnets under some front edg veneer and also attach the magnets (using epoxy) to the grill frame. Doing that now on the Cornwall redo on the motor board.

The outer ply of the bottoms of both speakers was peeling so I stripped it off. Bottom is lumber core 3/4" (not plywood). I applied 1/8" plywood on bottoms clamped and glued to stablilize. The outer ply of the motor boards at vents has come look and I had to trim it out and them replace with new wood to get stable surface for veneer to stick to. Cutting out a larger midhorn using PE H812 8 x 12" horn so should allow greater dispersion. Hope to get to veneering soon with curly walnut after I add bracing in cabinets.

Pete, there are two K-52-H drivers on ebay now at $85 each. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Klipsch-K-52-H-Repacement-Driver-/290814688346?pt=US_Speaker_Parts_Components&hash=item43b5e7fc5a Don't know that this is what you need but at least they would match. Hope this helps

Thanks Dean. I didn't have anything to compared the tweeter section on this with your resistor mod to a non-resistor mod but it is very clear and precise. No shrillness. The woofers are very capable and provide great impact. So far everyone who has heard them are very impressed.

Clearer side pic

Got em done today. The sound of thees speakers is very good. Not heavy bass but good bass. Clear and precise highs. Wowsers!!!

Brian, I've used the Klipsch K-90-KV 7 x 10" tractrix horn in a three way crossed over at 750 Hz using a Klipsch Tangent T-4000/5000 xover and it sounds great. Just a few minor differences between the T-4000 and Heresy xovers. I can't quote you specs on this horn as to low end cutoff but it sounds great. Same horn used in the KLFC7 center channel. It has to be modded to accept a screw on or bolt on driver/adaptor. I think the faital drivers may work. I've got some extra T4000 xovers if you need a couple. I've attached two pics shoing the K-90 (shorter) vs a Parts Express 8 x 12" horn (non tractrix) for comparison. Good luck.

I'm using the K-67 tweeter driver used in the RF7 and the new RF7ii woofers. So far I'm playing with the RF7 crossover schemdatic fromthe forum using Dean G's suggested Mills resistor on the cross leg in the tweeter circuit. I tested the woofers on the woofer tester and a friend ran specs in bass box and I got 3.7" dual flared end ports with internal volumei right at 4cf. I haven't installed speakers yet since xovers aren't finished but they sure sound good in open air with just one woofer hooked up. I think the K-67 is the Paudio BMD440. Not sure who makes the K-701-G driver used in the RF7ii but it looks larger in a photo on the forum about removing the xover in an RF7ii. . They have different klipsch model numbers and the 701 is about half the price of the 67. From reading on the forum I understood that the RF7ii switched to 1200HZ xover from 2200hz in the RF7 because of a larger horn that would handle the1200 hz xover. Yes, I applied the cherry aircraft grade veneer over the two layers of 1/2" bendable ply then attached solid cherry wood trim on fronts and top. Any nput or help with crossover would be welcome.

Here's a pic of 1/2" bendable plywood installed.

Thanks guys. I used 1/2" bendable plywood (2 layers) on the sides and wrapped it around the 5 braces and attached with PL premium adhesive (nasty stuff) and 8 million staples. I used Titebond glue between the 2 plys with some rubber open weave drawer liner. It is very hard and stiff. Then I applied the cherry veneer and 3/4" solid cherry on the top. The bendable plywood is great stuff (no kerfing involved). The sides are 1" thick and very solid. This is a lot easier than the prior 45degree angle side build I did (and won't do again!).

Building these for a friend using the RF7 horn and driver and RF7ii woofers. Cabinet is a little wider at front, narrower in back and a little deeper than RF7ii cabinets. Braced these suckers well with 5 horizontal braces per cabinet. Just finished 6th coat of wipe on poly. Need to build grill frames and install foam and speakers take a listen.

Got a little work done. Trimmed the lip off the fronts (will reinstall solid walnut lip) and cleaned up the back edges with tablesaw. Panels are lumber core - not plywood. Backs and fronts are ply. Cut out the top and bottom corners to allow solid walnut roundovers to cover the veneer edges. Using curly walnut on these. I also plan on replacing mid horn with 8 x 12" internally mounted horn based on what customer wants to spend. Lots of loose veneer around the bottom ports. Will veneer the fronts as well.

Here is back.

I just tested the two different woofers (both K-33) from the Cornwalls I am redoing and got different values. Number 1 (round magnet) has fs 37, qt .58, vas, 6.8cf, 93 db. Number 2 (square magnet) has fs 28, qt .31, vas 13.3cf, 96db (which is similar to my own K-33 woofers). Number two has the smaller dust cap with vent and mesh and must be a replacement probably from a different manufacturer. I don't know that woofer was original or replaced since I don't own them.