Blvdre
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Posts posted by Blvdre
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You should address those bare wire connections, as well. Make a J-hook With the bare wire end, and loop it around the screw before tightening. Even better, buy some appropriate gauge fork/spade terminals, and a crimper.
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12 hours ago, jvs1670 said:
I can't see how Khorns would work at all in that room, you need corners or you'll need to build false corners. It won't sound right if they aren't used the way they are designed to be used.
Yes, in the op's first post, they mention interest in building false corners. -
What are you using as a source, and which mixer input is selected? As Chris pointed out, it sounds like you're running a line level source through a phono input. Do you have the mixer's eq enabled, and possibly misadjusted?
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I think the standard approach is to drop the autoformer tap from 4 to 3, and replace the 13 uF with a 6.8. That will reduce the output of the mid driver by 3dB
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I picked up my 1200 mkII for $85, used on e-bay. It was sold as, "won't power up", so I gambled and bought it. I already had a service manual, and had been repairing tables for local DJs on the cheap (mostly cable replacements), so I figured it was worth a shot. It turned out to be a broken power knob. A $10 part at the time. Still plays like a champ in my second system.
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What are the construction & materials of your bass traps? You want solid panels for false corners. I'm sure someone with experience will be along shortly.
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You're going to need some kind of high end compensation for that horn, as it's a constant directivity design. Either built into your passive, or otherwise.
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3 hours ago, willland said:
No sub out or preouts if he wanted to add a subwoofer.
Bill
You are correct. Concessions at low price points, and he's just looking for something inexpensive to get going. Used is a good idea, but I wouldn't go too old, unless you're wiling to do the refurbishment/PM work.
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I've read good things about the Yamaha R-S202. FM/AM, Bluetooth, line level inputs.
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8 hours ago, RandyH 000 said:
these will go fast
? These were all sold by June 7 (see above) -
1 hour ago, CECAA850 said:
Parts Connexion is in Canada. I've purchased several caps from them in the past but never received them. Always got my money back but they tend to never stock anything.
Didn't know their service was spotty. I've placed three orders this year, and have had no issues. On their website, the part has stock status, but maybe it's not always kept up to date. I'll continue to use them until they piss me off.
I did know PC was in Ontario, so I don't know what I was thinking. I haven't have a good nights sleep since 1986.
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In the US, Parts Connexion and Soniccraft both sell Miflex caps.
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14 hours ago, moray james said:
the caps and resistor are not stock they are (imo) probably better than what was originally in the crossover but I will add a caveat in that the factory caps were paper in oil with aluminum foil or film (plastic) in oil with deposited aluminum. These were what the speakers were originally voiced with so if you want the original voicing you will want to stick with caps like that but if you prefer the sound of film caps then you can go that way it's your preference and your call. The caps in the network as it is now probably sound just fine. I would suggest that you spend your money on changes that will make a large difference. Again this is your call do as you please it is your money and time. Opinions are like elbows everyone has a couple of them.
MJ, these are not my speakers. I'm questioning whether the current parts are correct/appropriate for the speaker model (whatever that may be). We don't know what the speaker model is, or what the correct crossover component values should be. Not a great place to start.
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It's still unclear whether those parts are stock, or have been replaced at some point, and if so, are the values correct? The build quality doesn't look stock to me. I say that because of the quality of the build. Nothing looks fastened down (no strain relief), components laying on wire runs. Seems a bit off. Maybe a cost-cutting measure, though?
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Ganesh, you could always order some 250v caps, as 630V is overkill and a bit bulky. That would give you a bit more wiggle-room.
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There are several KG crossovers that align with specific model speakers. You can find Klipsch crossover schematics in a sticky thread in the Technical Mods section of this forum. After determining your model speaker, you may find what your looking for over there.
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Maybe. In that case, just disregard.
Deang, have a dram for me.
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Here's the chart for the 3619 (from Al's website):
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If anyone else needs these, let me know,. I have some extras I'll never use.
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sold
in Garage Sale
Is that right about the rear switch? I remember it being high and low gain options, but maybe I had it wrong. BTW, really nice sounding preamp, and a rare piece. Should sell quickly.
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Maybe for cartridge loading? Pop the top and see if where thy lead.
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The only thing I could dig up was that there is a switch to change phono eq between RIAA and 78.
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OK, that new Hakko just makes me feel old. My 'new' iron was a donor from my workplace, and has a cal sticker on it dated 2003, before they were replaced with a new model. So I've used it for ~20 years. It replaced a Weller, and a Pace before that.
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Hakko, Pace, Weller are all good options, temp controlled.
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AK3 crossover recaped
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
No, corrosion is not just superficial; it degrades the conductor. Cut the corroded ends off and resolder your connections.