Max2
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Posts posted by Max2
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Dont play with guns or matches. Very loud noises can and will damage your hearing. Boiling Water is hot and so is the top of that stove.
Congrats, you just passed the 1st grade. [
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I just picked up a ton of B&O stuff last year and as cool as it looks, its lust too hard to get a "moving" musical experience from such small drivers. I will say it is impressive just how much sound they do get out of such small speakers and cabinets. Also, from what I can gather, everything is built very well. The two remotes I have can very easily double duty as police baton's.
BTW, Im not overly impressed by the clarity of the ICE amps. I have a full class D setup in my SUV as well and I dont think it is near a good as a class A /AB amp......maybe in 10 years the tech will catch up, but not now.
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It sounds like you want Henry Rollins to belt out some Norah Jones
Well now wait, he just might be able to pull it off! That 250 is a sledgehammer, no way around it. I have never heard any of the Heritage line have a truly clean sound with any affordable mega watt amps out there....I can already see the Emotiva guys clinching their fists. There are several other amps out there that are more suitable for your Corns and I would shoot for the 100-150 RMS watt range as this is the point where the mid and tweet drivers start to head south no matter what. -
Considered that... but here's something I don't quite get:
XPA-3 (200x3) = 850VA transformer
XPA-5 (200x5) = 1200VA transformer
LPA-1 - my current amp - (125x6) - 1200VA transformer
Is Emotiva getting cheap with their newer offerings? I would expect the transformers on the XPAs to be larger than they are for the wattage they claim.
You could go with a new emotiva.
$599 200 wpc Free shipping to USA
http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/amplifiers/products/xpa3
That is one of the many reasons Emo's are so affordable. The tranformers are not all that is marginal....the Cap size and quantity are minimal as well. IMO, save a little more money and go after a quality used amp. The Rotel mentioned earlier is an extremely well built amp as they are much better built than the budget amps out there. I personally think Rotel is the most amp for the money out there period and the 1075 or 1095 are very clean. I would also consider Parasound, ATI, B&K, Bryston and of course McIntosh. I just saw a McIntosh MC205 go for $1550 on Ebay and I really wish it was heading to my house. Also, if you are running the Heritage series speakers you might want to be careful on how big of an amp you go with. The noise floor on most 200 watt amps isnt that good and will produce an audible hiss while no content is being sent through the AMP. Just a thought
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Buy used Khorns and mod them as you go. Having said that, a lot of people buy Khorns only to find out they are too tall for their listening room given the size of their area and/or corner placement doesnt work. Another option would be a set of used LaScala's and a decent sub. This will outperform two Khorns any day of the week and will be cheaper in most cases.. MDF doesnt resonate or flex as bad as plywood and is sonically better....although many people will argue it and I must admit my ears probably couldnt hear the difference. However, almost all mega priced speakers being built these days use MDF for its superior acoustical properties.
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Those look great, and for $350 a piece thats a great price. If I was within 200 miles of you, they would be sold. GL
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You might consider to spend a little more and look at something current like the Denon 3312. Plenty of clean power, Airplay for you Apple products, Audyssey multi EQ XT, etc etc. You should be able to find one in NY in the $800-900 range
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I'm considering installing a new hardwood floor to replace the carpet. Is this a bad choice regarding acoustics in the room?
Lets call those Hogs!!!!!!
I recently had hardwood laminate (2 years ago at my old home) on a concrete foundation and let me tell you there will be a big jump in output. However, with this output will bring some resonance and echos big time. Now my listening room has completely carpet flooring and I found it quite dull when I first moved in. In time, I started noticing details in vocals and instruments in my regular listening favorites that I could not hear at my old room with solid floors. I wouldnt worry about the solid floors and I dang sure wouldnt choose carpet over any other flooring period. Like mentioned ealier, grab a rug and a few acoustic panels for the walls and you will have great looks AND great sound without all the echo's and bass issues.
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I would bet my DTV receiver is as hot as that or hotter. I have been through tons of units with them and they all are bad about putting off excessive heat. I dont think your unit is defective..
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In case you didnt notice the seller still has the 401 mid horns and the AL-3 X-overs for sale as well. You might try to work a package deal with him. AL-3's and 401 mid horns arent that easy to come by anymore.
Really dont see how the guy figured he could get more from parting the speaks out.
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Nice center, and Im fairly close to you. Although I am running the newer composite horn with AL-3's
I have two industrials with AL-3's. Can anyone comment on how this one would pair as far using for a center? I have read on timbre differences and so on, but dont know first hand.
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If you like that Marantz you should check out the upper Denon line as well. The latest Audyssey is very worth it. Airplay is cool and works awesome. I can control everything with my Iphone and have complete access to my itunes music library. Its nice while having a cold one on the back porch and be able to play anything and control it all right from Iphone. Not to mention, upper Denons are usually at the top when it comes to bench.
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I used them as surrounds for several years. The 4 is one of the cheapest pairs of floorstanding Klipsch you can buy. They have a very good sound for the money spent and surprisingly decent bass. They are not as sensitive (around 92db I think) and they are 4 ohm speaks I believe, so trimming the center and fronts might take a little more than usual.
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Make sure your 805 isnt sending all the low end to the sub or subs. It very well could be cutting 150hz and lower from the LaScala's and sending it to the subs.
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Its been 20 years since I had to contact Klipsch, but when I did it was a call to Hope, AR. Talk about friendly..... They have sent me badges at no charge, and even a replacement driver just from a diagnosis over the phone with no issues period.
It sounds like the OP got wronged by a retailer. Its funny that he says this is not the right place to mention which retailer..... I think this is the best place to mention which retailer. Obviously the retailer denied a return,exchange or a little shipping damage maybe....who knows. It seems whatever has sent the OP off the deep end and in turn he chooses to thrash the company here. Tell us the whole story Mit or cry Wolf somewhere else.
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I would have to say you cant go wrong with either. If the 1095 is half the cost of the Anthem, I would go in that direction. Both amps are way over built when it comes to power supply and caps. I can attest to a quiet noise floor on the Rotel, but not the Anthem. Dont settle for Emo my friend.
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I fought Audyssey for a few months as well. I have a Denon 4311, LaScala's across the front and Chorus's for rears. Audyssey cut everything to the max, except for my center and my sub. And in the end it made my sub almost non existent which was frustrating since it worked so well with my previous non Audyssey Receiver. After Audyssey ran, the trim levels didnt bother me much because as long as I moved them all the same amount it didnt affect anything that I could physically hear except for the sub. It was also a little strange having to turn the receiver up to 80% or so to get to a decent sound level. Anyhow, the main thing that made my sub work as it should was setting the X-over on my fronts to 80HZ. I know the LaScala's start heading south somewhere in that area but it still bothered me knowing I was cutting a little content at that level from them. Doing this made a world of difference and I was able to keep my rears X over set to 40HZ which the Chorus's are ok with. Its aggravating I cant get full low cycle content to my mains and the sub without doing this, but I must say it sounds very good now.
On another note. I also had issues with Audyssey wanting to jack up the EQ levels from the response graphs taken from my LaScalas. The Chorus's were fairly flat, like my C7 Center, but in the upper mid and tweeter range it wanted to jack it all up as well. I updated the Caps in my crossovers and updated the tweeters to the Crites 125's and Audyssey finally chilled out some. Im guessing Audyssey was wanting some response with its test tone past 16K HZ which the factory tweeters dont carry past much. I put the Crites 125's in and the EQ graphs toned down a lot in the 15-20K HZ range, but were boosted a little higher in the 10-12K range as compared to the factory tweets.. All in all things are much smoother now. IMO, Audyssey is not what its all cracked up to be due to limiting the user's abilities.. Having said that it does make a remarkable difference, especially in my odd shaped room above my garage which has various sloping, angled walls.
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Years and years ago there were some driver issues with the KG4's. I had a couple of the "white" 8" drivers that had the same voice coil issue. Luckily, Klipsch swapped out two for me which ended up being totally different because they updated them. Now I have two different mid/bass drivers per speaker, one black, one white. Personally, I would try and pick up some of the old ones or a newer style 8 on ebay or somewhere. I think good working KG4's are trading around $150 per pair, which is a real bargain IMO.
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I had a blip with one of LSI's a few years back. It turned out to be a loose connection for the LF driver. The wire that comes off of the X-over for the woofer connects to a distribution block and then an additional wire comes off of that and is sent down to the woofer. One wire was loose and once tightened it quit making the rattle or slight crackle when turned up.
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Maybe Im missing some info here. Is someone stating there is an actual audible difference between the two? I didnt mean for my link to say why or how the 95 is superior to the 93, I was just offering TK a comparison between the two and the abilty for him to do some research on both players.
Its noted in the article the 95 has superior caps, Sabre vs Cirrus DACS, toro. powersupply, internal fan, better construction, etc, but 500 dollars difference? Im doubting anyone could hear a difference between the two with a basic CD, there is no way I could.
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I think your questions may be answered in this article. Oppo 95 vs 93
Not really. From the review:
Yes there were slight measurable differences between the players with respect to distortion, but it's very unlikely there would be a situation where these differences would be audible.
The audible differences with regards to crosstalk between these two players would be like trying to compare the loudness of a gnat's fart in loud New York City traffic if one listener was sitting in Florida and the other in Australia.
We also ran Bit Error Rate (BER) tests on both players using Dolby TrueHD and DTS HD test signals and both players produced a 0% BER which means both players delivered audio via HDMI 100% error free. Early HDMI products (ver 1.0 to 1.2) reportedly suffered from jitter related issues but HDMI ver 1.3 and above has completely eliminated jitter related issues thus ensuring bit for bit exact signal transfer from the player to the A/V receiver or processor.
The BDP-93 displayed benchmark performance while the BDP-95 exceeded that mark to the point where we were measuring the limits of our $40k Audio Precision HDMI analyzer.
Geez, what else is needed in the comparo? They basically broke down the differences in construction, components and performance, along with a detailed benchmark. What else were you looking for Stephen?
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I couldnt tell you TK. Several months ago I was very close to upgrading my Player to an Oppo 93, but decided to hold off.
I think your questions may be answered in this article. Oppo 95 vs 93
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CD is dead, unlike vinyl where you need to spend thousands to get the best information off a disc, with a CD any current generation drive costing $50 or less is capable of perfectly extracting the contents to a hard drive. Once on the hard drive its easy enough to send the data to any DAC you want to play it on.You can also play any CD or CDR without extracting to the hard drive first, and the quality is limited by whatever DAC you choose.
If I were to buy a CD player I would hunt down one of the older classics like a Sony, I think, 7ES?
Wouldnt you still be better off buying the CD when compared to downloading a 256K Generic Itunes selection? Im behind the times, but I have all of my Itunes music pumped through an Analog audio card and then sent to my Receiver. Im sure there is a better alternative.
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This is a question that cant be answered, not even from taking listed specs.on the best of the best. Generally when you are dealing with the upper or (boutique) brands, the higher the price the more exotic and precise the internals are.
Unless you need a CD Changer, I would buy an Oppo
9593Universal player ($500) and call it a day. This unit will play just about anything and perform above many players that cost twice its price.Sorry about the typo guys. HeHe, everyone was ready to pull out their American Express card!
Back to the topic.
Can anyone actually hear a huge difference in current CD players these days? Im pretty sure I cant.
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Well now wait, he just might be able to pull it off! That 250 is a sledgehammer, no way around it. I have never heard any of the Heritage line have a truly clean sound with any affordable mega watt amps out there....I can already see the Emotiva guys clinching their fists. There are several other amps out there that are more suitable for your Corns and I would shoot for the 100-150 RMS watt range as this is the point where the mid and tweet drivers start to head south no matter what.
Bang & Olufsen does it...
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Im not knocking Class D, as it holds more advantages for the majority applications and is basically the future of Amp offerings. The Ice setups I have heard are a little gritty at times. (H&K, Rotel and B&O) Im sure a top shelf mega power ASP hooked up to some Magnapans would sound way better than my much more dainty BeoLab 8002's, but IMO both would sound even better with a fat, heavy and room heating Class A amp.