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HPower

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Everything posted by HPower

  1. HPower
    Bumped for a fantastic amplifier GLWS
  2. HPower
    Correct on both counts Carl. I finally broke down and bought a Jasper jig this year, they do work great!!! Up until then I was using a scrap piece of plexiglass that I had mounted to my router and then measured out my desired radius and drilled a hole for the pivot point. it worked, but it did involve a bit of trial and error... with the Jasper it's, 1st time, every time. :emotion-21:
  3. HPower
    IMO, absolutely. You're talking about 3/64 of an inch and when you consider that you will have variances in panel thickness, cuts, marking, placement, pencil thickness, heck, even the thickness of the bead of PL that oozes out on the inside of the panel, braces (that to the best of my knowledge weren't even part of the performance calculations when the design was done) My point is, I believe that the average person gets overwhelmed when deciding to do a lot of builds because they get hung up on miniscule details because they don't have confidence and are overwhelmed when something isn't perfect, and they need to relax and go into it realizing that perfection isn't going to happen. I've been building for a long time but this won't be a build without mistakes, and I'm actually going to point those out because I hope that they will help someone decide to build something that in the end, will have been an enjoyable experience with great practical performance results. But hey, I could be wrong. I agree 100% Pete! The F-20 may be a musical instrument of sorts, but is not like we are building a Bösendorfer.
  4. HPower
    PM Send.
  5. HPower
    Thanks, now if I could only find some nice black screws. I only had some brass screws on hand that were the appropriate size. And yes DizRotus, the Duratex is GREAT stuff. Only your hair dresser knows for sure what goes on under the Duratex.
  6. HPower
    I went with the round version... Neutrik NL4MPR, and counter sunk it to flush mount. My photography skills leave a bit to be desired, it looks better in person.
  7. HPower
    SOLD 2 Brand new, never used Philips 5R4GYS Rectifiers tubes for sale. Asking $80 each, or $150 for the pair. http://www.upscaleaudio.com/philips-5r4gys-made-in-holland/ I had 2 pair of these and when I sold my Welborne DRD45 monos last week I initially sold the 1 pair that had been used. This 2nd non used pair I was going to keep to use in future gear but the amps that I am about to purchase do not take this rectifier so I have decided to offer them up. Do a google and read why everybody (not just me) love this rectifier. You don't need to spend crazy money on an old used Mullard to get primo sound. I paid $99/each plus Cryogenically Treated @ $8 per tube by Upscale Audio.
  8. HPower
    I have a 5 1/2 ft (67") pair of Kimber 12TC for sale... asking $275 shipped. They are terminated at both ends with regular Kimber spades via the Cable Company were they were original purchased. These are great cables, there was a noticeable improvement when compared to the 8TC that I previously owned. With me just selling my Welborne monos, these are just a little too short for my new set up. Thanks for looking. .
  9. HPower
    SOLD I bought this great amp back in Feb. 2014 from (I believe) the original owner. It has fantastic sound quality and has preformed perfectly for me driving my Cornscallas. I have just downsized by selling my preamp and will be going with just my Integrated amp for now. Here is a quote from my seller's 2014 classified: "Firstwatt F5 clone. Started as a Rawson F5 and then I did some internal upgrades to some of the board parts, as well as the grounding scheme. The correct grounding wires where not here to begin with, but have been added according to Papa Pass's directions. Great amp, spades and bare wire connections only, solid build in every way." As mentioned, it has some nice upgraded Cardas "clamp style" binding posts, so spades and bare wire need only apply. http://www.partsconnexion.com/product7453.html .
  10. HPower
    Thanks :emotion-21:
  11. HPower
    Hey tk... PM returned. Thanks
  12. HPower
    Here are a few pics of the 3: 45s. No date for the back up, in the RCA box. The matched pair that came from TC Tubes, have dates of 1950 and 1953 noted on their white boxes. .
  13. HPower
    I just sold my Welborne DRD45s so I have some tubes to offer up. 3 Vintage RCA 45s. I am not sure of the total hours on them, but they sounded great in my DRDs. Asking $65 each, or $150 for all 3... all 3 SOLD I also have two new Philips 5R4GYS Made in Holland rectifiers… Retail : $99/each (Cryogenically Treated @ $8 per tube by Upscale Audio (These replace GZ34/5AR4)) I purchase these from Upscale this past January and would guess they have about 150 hours on them. http://www.upscaleaudio.com/philips-5r4gys-made-in-holland/ Asking $60 each, or $100 for the pair... Rectifier Tubes SOLD
  14. HPower
    +1 G.E.M. Normally Jeff, I would be with you on that one... But after seeing J timberbake at the Sars thing here it TO (which he was a big part in organizing, he really can be a very giving person!) I will give him at least a little credit. Not saying he is Pavarotti, but much better than Tinny Tim... I think I may have dated myself there.
  15. HPower
    PM sent...
  16. HPower
    Did you run a round over bit along the edges? It's hard to tell from the pictures. Carl, I was thinking about doing a round over with the router, but I opted to just "ease" all the edges with a little sanding. Just enough to take the sharp edge off.
  17. HPower
    I like using the pocket screws, I am not sure it saves a ton of time, but you will find that there is a lot less clamping required. I usually dry fit everything first with just the pocket screws, then if I am happy with how things look I take it all apart and then do final assembly with the PL. This give a chance to make any required "tweeks" before hand, vs. trying to do them while you have the glue already down.
  18. HPower
    Thanks, I am happy with the way it turned out. Although, after looking again at the 2 previous pics, I think I will go in and fill the pocket screw holes in the mouth and repaint. This will be the first time I have used any Speakon connections. I figured since I am going to power it with a pro amp (Crown XLS 1500), I might as well use pro connections. With Speakons usually used on most road cases... if they work for touring bands, surely they will work in my basement.
  19. HPower
    He it is with just one coat of Duratex, still waiting for Thursday's Speakon order to arrive.
  20. HPower
    Hey Jeff, PM Sent.
  21. HPower
    SOLD... Unfortunately I need to downsize my HiFi collections, so up for offer is my outstanding pair of DRD45s. I have owned these for about 1 year and they were used very minimal by the previous owner, and it shows. These were Factory built units and they work perfectly and sound as fantastic as they should! I am asking $1500 shipped, with the tubes I bought them with... Three RCA 45 tubes (1 spare). Two Sovteks 5AR4 rectifiers. Two Russian 6N1P input tubes. I decided to up the ante after a few months with the DRDs and purchased... Two new Emission Labs 45 Mesh tubes… Retail : $629/pair and Two new Philips 5R4GYS Made in Holland rectifiers… Retail : $99/each (Cryogenically Treated @ $8 per tube by Upscale Audio) So, for those that would prefer the "Full Monty", I am asking $2100 shipped with both sets of tubes. I will upload some pics this evening. Thanks for looking.
  22. HPower
    That is a 3M glued layer of Shower Pan Liner to the baffle to act like a gasket to ensure a better seal for the woofer. Not sure if it was necessary but I had a bunch of it from previous speaker builds. I also used it to form the gasket for the trapdoor.
  23. HPower
    I have been dragging my A$$ the last couple days but yesterday I did get all the bracing put in. Carl, I followed your technique for cutting and installing the braces, worked out great. I forgot to take a pic with the mouth brace in and all painted black. Hopefully after work tonight I can get the last side glued on.
  24. HPower
    Not confusing, Without me giving a lot of thought initially, that is how I was planning to go about it. But when I was thinking about the other approach, I am thought it would help with positioning the panels. I am guessing I would hardly need to clamp while dry fitting with the pocket screws. When I do my final assembly with the PL, I will take a few picks to simulate my idea. If it looks like it will be a good technique, I will keep in in mind for future builds.
  25. HPower
    Thanks Carl After I was about half way through my dry fit yesterday it dawned on me that I could have cut all my braces to my layout before doing any assembly. I figured I could have positioned the braces on the inside of the 1st side (tacked in position with a couple of screws) and then used them as stops to position the panels as I went along. When screwing the panels down from the opposite side of the brace, the pocket screws would push the panels against the brace. Then, once everything has been dry fitted (basically where I am now) I would un-tack the braces from the side panel and move them up 1/2 way and they should be a perfect fit. This would also ensure all the panels are square and perpendicular to the side panel. If I build a 2nd one, I will try this approach, as per this layout.
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