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bliss53

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Posts posted by bliss53

  1. The K57 and K77 were moved into my second Cornwall project. Before the move the networks were an early version of what Dave has on his site called the ALK Cornscala-Wall Universal. These K57, K77 and this crossover were a bit more forward and that was the goal for the person who asked me to build them. I also tried the ALK AP12-500/ES 5800. This network gave the best separation and accuracy of all. But with my gear the best configuration for me (in place for a few years in my primary speakers) is the K55, Crites 125 and a ALK Cornscala-Wall Universal network that is tweaked to the frequency of the fastrac horn 380hz horn. This set up was the best balance for both my Conrad Johnson gear for detail and very sweet dynamic midrange with may old McIntosh gear. I only tried the original B3 for a very short time. The B3 was bested by a large margin when compared to the ALK designs I mentioned above. The B3 was mushy. I do not know much about crossovers but with the B3 it sounded like the drivers overlapped each other.

  2. The highest oil content I have applied was some teak. See http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/128981.aspx?PageIndex=1. It did not cause a great deal of problems. I did have to apply a little more heat and some edge areas required a little more heatlock glue. I think the extra heat allowed the glue to move around. I finally found a balance of heat vs. glue movement. I would use and extra coat of glue if I were doing it again. Some areas showed some surface discoloration due to the heat but it came right off with some light sanding. Sanding was a little tougher with the oily wood filing sandpaper more quickly. Hope this helps.

  3. In my situations the labels have been mostly intact. If you want to save what you have you can follow the procedure I used. Glue down the label corners and edges. I also had to cut a couple of slits in some lifted areas to spread glue around. I wiped them down gently with a damp cloth to remove the glue residue. After they dried I cut a piece of paper an 1/8 smaller on all the boarders and taped it down with blue painters tape. This process minimizes the tape contact to the very edge of the label. In your case you could trace the irregular shape after the gluing to make the paper for masking. Then apply some tape to the paper and trim the tape to leave the 1/8 boarder before you apply the paper/tape masking. Then paint with Krylon grey primer then Krylon Satin Black.

  4. I did a couple of similar jobs on a few cornwalls although I did not deal with spray paint. Watco is the way to go. Very easy. You cab get the walnut or cherry tinted Watco as well. You can do one tinted coat to darken the look then the regular watco for the rest of the coats to finish. I waited a good long time for the watco to set (week or more) and then finished with several buffed out coats of butcher's paste wax to get a bit of a soft gloss. I would also study some of the pictures and narratives posted by Greg at http://www.klipschupgrades.com/mkhorn.shtml. I followed a lot of his advice and it worked out great. I have posted some pics of my process at http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/105447.aspx?PageIndex=1. Good luck. PM me if I can help.

  5. I noticed significant improvement of iphone, ipad and ipod performance by adding an outboard amp and a line out plug. I got a battery powered Fiios amp and a patch cord that inserts into the multi-contact power plug of the device and has a 1/8" phono plug that goes into the amp. The un-amplified signal from the multi-contact plug sounds much better that a standard line out from the head phone jack of the device. The Fiios amp improves it even more. I have used this set up with Klipsch x10, x5 and M40s with great results. See the Fiio site for amps and cords. http://www.fiio.com.cn/product/index.aspx

  6. I am really liking the Mode M40s with the FIIO amp. They do not sound as good as my X10 without the amp. They are almost as good as the X10 with the amp. The X10 are a slight bit more dynamic. I would put them in the same class as the Sennheiser PXC450. The cables are very nice and the fit and finish is good.

  7. I wanted to post about a piece of digital gear I heard on a friends system. My friend has a much higher end system than mine that I have heard it many times with many different pieces of gear. He was trying out a Classe preamp from our local high end store. It was a game changer. The Classe is very impressive even with low density iphone music files. Very sweet vinyl-like sound.  It also sounds like they must have some really tiny tubes on the circuit boards.  I was prepared for my friend's system to bring out the flaws in a "jack of all trades" type of DAC but it did not. Instead it really delivered.  I think he should save his pennies for this thing.  I also want to borrow it again in a few weeks and pair it with my computer and use the pure vinyl as a phono stage and run 24/192 files through the DAC for playback.  Should be pretty impressive.  Unfortunately I am now

    thinking that I need a ADC/DAC upgrade. If you need a pre and/or a DAC make sure you put this on your audition list.

    Given all this gushing I want to note that I am not associated with classe in any way.

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