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avguytx

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Posts posted by avguytx

  1. 37 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

     

    I'd try some black model paint.  Remember Testors paint from when you were a kid?  I just bought some at Hobby Lobby to repair a scratch on a piece of gear.  $1.99 each.  That and a very small artists brush. 

     

    Maybe start with a coat of copper paint, then go over the details with the black.  The 'PWK' is going to be tough.

     

    That's been a thought I've had, too.  I might have my wife do the steady hand work as she's the gifted "surgical closure" who sews people up after dermatology rebuilds.  I built lots of models as a kid so remember that paint well. I even thought the opposite direction of spraying them black and touching the tops with something gold.  Or, spray them black and then mist some gold paint on a flat piece of paper, etc., and lightly "stamp" the lettering onto it.  Gonna be interesting.  Thanks for the input.

  2. 21 hours ago, Jefferson6599 said:

     

    Thank You!  just got off the phone with Bill and he says he can rebuild it.  

     

    And you're darn sure it's not just the center dust cap, right?  I had one that did that and I could press down while playing and it stopped.  All it took was some MEK to remove the dust cap and black rubber cement and I was back in business.

     

     

  3. 22 minutes ago, DirtyErnie said:

    I don't think you could pick a loser with any of those veneers.  I'd have a difficult choice between the mahogany and cherry.   Bubinga is cool, but it's always looked a bit rough to me.

     

    Yeah, that's true.  There's a flat cut Bubinga that's not so bad and more like most grains.  Then there's my old faithful ribbon mahogany (bottom pics) which would at least match the Pioneer PL-518 turntable I rebuilt and covered in veneer.

     

    image.jpeg.feeab668c3a3ba880ccf4599b4815743.jpeg

     

    mahogany-veneer-ribbon-striped.jpg

     

    My Pioneer PL-518

     

     

     

     

    Pioneer1.jpg

     

     

    Pioneer2.jpg

  4. Recently, I just happened to luck out and found/bought a set of the Epic/KLF series grill emblems that are unobtanium anymore.  Nothing is broken on them and they have the two "posts" on the back to sit into the grill.  I've had to redo some emblems before with the 2 step paint method but curious if anyone else out there has ever done so.  When these emblems are in their normal pristine condition, were they made with black plastic then the copper/gold color added?  I'm not out to get them 100% perfect...just will be happy to have some emblems on them once I replace the original grill cloth that has a dark purple-ish hue to it. 

     

    20221128_132806_copy_1024x534.thumb.jpg.700bbc3d70bc7b53d993329c77612402.jpg

     

    I'm also going to strip off the awful looking black satin paint finish that looks like it was done on Margarita Monday (literally) and owners tried to color in spots with a black Sharpie over their years.  I have to true up the edges just a tad and a slightly bunged up corner which is no problem.  I'm pondering 3 different veneers....flat cut African Mahogany (1st pic), flat cut Cherry (2nd pic), or quarter cut Bubinga (3rd pic).  I am no fan of oak so that's out and I've also considered walnut, although pricier.  Haven't decided just yet but I know I don't like the flashier veneer.  A nice thing about veneering these is that you only have to do the sides and tops but you do need a 4' x 10' sheet as that is 99 inches in length.

     

    African mahogany wood veneer sample, flat cut

     

    Cheery wood veneer sample, flat cut

     

    Picture 1 of 1

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. On 11/26/2022 at 7:02 AM, Jefferson6599 said:

     

    On a side note how much power are you guys feeding these things? 

     

    I first fell in love with Klipsch for two reasons, I am hard rock/metal fan and paired with the fact they were always more efficient than the other brands I looked at in their price range and just didn't require a ton of power to make them rock it a match made in heaven.  My first 5.1 channel receiver was a Yamaha that put out 75 WPC and it was enough to drive the reference series back in 1999.  I'm throwing 110 WPC at those same speakers today and they sound the same.

     

    I run a highly updated Carver M-1.0t on mine and has been my daily driver for a decade now.  460 watts per channel on tap. 

    • Like 2
  6. I currently own v1 CF-3's and have owned v3's and v2's.  I can tell you from personal experience that there's not some hugacious difference between them all like some seem to make out.  Truth be told, I believe the v2's sounded every bit as good, if not better, than the v1's.  The first set I owned were the v3's and really regretted it when I sold them. 

     

    Go buy a cheap DMM somewhere and check resistance on them or do like you said and switch woofers around. It's only 4 screws each and a little time.  

  7. If you're an AK subscriber, you'll be able to see this ad.  If not, well, sorry.  ;)  I also messaged him to list them here as well so if he does, I'll delete this post.  No affiliation.

     

    His listing there....

     

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------

    Selling a pair of Klipsch Forte I and Klipsch Epic CF-3 V1 speakers.

    The Fortes in pretty decent shape cosmetically. They have some scuffs on the top and sides (pictured), a blotch on top, as well as some scuffing on the edges of the speakers. Also some scuffing on bottom.

    The speakers sound great and pack a punch. They work well, and all components, including the front and passive woofers are intact. They have been unused for several years now, but I just hooked them up to test them and they still sound great.

    These were purchased by my father @gagelle around a decade ago. Unfortunately he's recently fallen ill, so I'm helping him to sell some of his audio equipment in preparation for moving.

    These speakers also have the upgraded Crites titanium tweeters which were installed by myself awhile back.

    The grills are in okay shape. My stupid cat (whom I love dearly) decided to use them as scratching posts over the years. But they still look good, just a little bit roughed up. Both have badges.


    The CF-3s are also in pretty good cosmetic shape. Mostly small scratches, as well as a few larger ones on the sides (pictured) and a more noticeable one along with 2-3 visible scuffs on the back of one (also pictured). The other one has a lighter scratch like that on the back. Grills are in good shape. I wasn't entirely sure what version these were, but I measured the ports and got about 5.5", which should mean V1. Under the grills they look great as well.

    No modifications have been made to these. Though I do recall briefly removing the crossovers to fix the terminals awhile back, as they had trouble tightening. But they seem okay now, though a little loose on the negative terminal on one speaker (but it still gets rather tight).

    These speakers have been also tested and equally pack a punch. The CF-3s have been in my family since I was a baby. They were purchasd new by my father. So its tough getting rid of them, but I'm confident they'll go to a good home.

     

    Looking for $600 OBO for the Fortes and $750 OBO for the CF-3s. Feel free to message me for questions, more photos, or feel free to shoot an offer.

    (Excuse the current mess. Also that's just cat fur on the CF-3 grills)


    Forte pics: https://imgur.com/a/uTEXKk6
    CF-3 pics:
    https://imgur.com/a/iz5aQMB


    Local pickup only in Central California.

    Thank you!

  8. 3 hours ago, OO1 said:

     you cant copy  klipsch parts since klipsch is  either the main manufacturer or klipsch gives a contract to a supplier    and klipsch or the OEM  do  not  share the  tooling   with  other manufacturers or  OEM's  ,  +  Aftermarkets  do not have the sonic quality  of klipsch components , it's gonna sound different  because the result is a DIY speaker  versus a  klipsch product built by Engineers over 1-2 years of R&D  .

     

    From what I heard from pretty much all the Klipsch dealers I knew over a 3 state area back when I was a manufacturers rep, the KLF line was put out pretty fast as the Epic CF didn't fare well in the market at all.  The KLF is said to have gone from drawing board to production within about a 9 month span, which is quite short.  Do the math and research it.  Who knows...the clones may sound even better.  KLF's haven't been made in over 20 years and there are no patents on them; they are just a big tall cabinet.

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