shelbydz28

It seemed the same to me too, I ended up just turning the subwoofer gain up to compensate until I was satisfied. I was happy with the higher frequency sound. Doug

I like the GUI - makes it easier to navigate through the settings in my opinion. Doug

The items that caused me to choose the 3808CI were: HDCD Decoder USB Connection Network Connection MP3 / WMA Decoder HDMI Inputs The USB input is handy - you can play MP3s from a hard drive. It also has a network connection and you could play MP3s from another computer. If you don't care about any of these features, and you don't need any of the extra inputs, ect. you might not need the 3808. Doug

It is the same story everywhere you go... a $5,000 Camaro with $5,000 worth of engine and suspension mods might go as fast 0-60 as a $230,000 Ferrari or a $10 case of beer will get you just as drunk as a $2,000 bottle of whiskey Some people are fine with the beer and Camaro even if they could afford the better options, others find it worth the cost to buy the whiskey and Ferrari event if they can't afford it. Most of us are somewhere in between. Doug

I decided on the F113 after much research due to its smaller size and musical accuracy, but they are very close in performance. What do you listen to more, music or movies? Do you care about size? If your answer is movies and you don't care about size it probably isn't worth the extra $$$$. If the PB13 is as close to the F113 as the reviews suggest, you will be very happy either way. Doug

Sorry to resurrect this from the dead, but as you can see from my signature I finally chose a replacement for my RW-12d and could not be happier. Not exactly under the original $2000 budget, but close with street pricing. I'm now completely satisfied with my system and I don't think I'll want to upgrade for a long time - which is cheaper in the long run. Music and movies are better than ever as I'm now listening to my entire collection just to hear what's new. It eventually came down to the SVS PB13 Ultra and the JL F113 for me - musical accuracy and physical size (WAF) were the deciding factors along with auto room correction. The subwoofer has no issue filling the air with quality sound even in my large room. Thanks to those who gave their input. Doug

I was approached by these guys in Indianapolis around Christmas time this year in a parking lot. They asked me if I wanted to buy a home theater system and I told them I already had one. About 10 years ago, one of my roomates bought a pair floorstanders that I think were supposed to be paradigm rip offs.He paid around $1000. Ouch. My other roomate and I were already big Klipsch fans/owners and we were at a loss for words.

If I understand subwoofer phase correctly, it is an adjustment to overcome cancellation of frequency between the mains and the SW at the same frequency. I have a Denon 3808-CI. If I set the subwoofer crossover to 40Hz – it should not put out below this frequency for the mains and only below this frequency for the sub. In this case is adjusting phase still necessary? Thanks, Doug

Ok, that makes sense, but more to the point: I only have $2000 to spend – and the sub needs to be not larger than the HSU VTF-3 HO as mentioned. Am I hearing that the RT-12d is my best bet in this case? Again, low THD, low frequency, musical ability below 80Hz and HT wow factor are my key concerns over high dB levels. As a side note, what approxiamte dB is a 'tolerable' listening level (I’m sure tolerable listening level is another topic of discussion altogether)? Thanks, Doug

Dual Post

Thanks for all the replies. Can you help me to understand why I would want the JL F113 over say the True Subwoofer EQ Signature when the Signature is rated to - 3dB at 16Hz while the F113 is -10dB at 16Hz? I realize bigger is always better, but it seems if you can’t hear the lower frequencies it wouldn’t be as desirable? Thanks, Doug

That is an understatement. Looks awesome though.

Thanks, I'll have a look at those Epik subs. Another sub I should add that is in contention is the Velodyne SPL-1500R. Doug

I have read many of your posts and you seem very knowledgeable. I would like to ask your advice on a subwoofer upgrade. I want to upgrade from a Klipsch RW-12d. I don't want to spend more than $2000. I have a rather large listening area – 2600 cubic ft with large openings into the remainder of the house. My system is the RF-83 system used for 50% movies, 50% 2.1 channel audio and I rarely listen to it at super high volume (but I wouldn't completely rule that possibility out). I care about special effect wow factor and musical accuracy along with frequency response equally, high dB would not be as important. I have narrowed it down to Klipsch RT-12d, Sunfire EQ Signature, and HSU VTF-3 HO or possibly a Velodyne DD-12. Feel free to add in any I have overlooked, although I can’t really go any larger in physical size than the HSU VTF-3 HO due to WAF and can’t spend more than $2,000. Which subwoofer should I get? Feel free to rate them in order if you like. Thanks in advance, Doug

Thanks, this is exactly the kind of comparison I was looking for. Any others who have upgraded to the RT-12d from a 'lesser' sub? Doug

You cannot go wrong with Tripp-Lite products. They have been used in professional power applications for years. I have the equivilent of this model in black: http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=3498 but I found it for around $100 or so. No noise to speak of. I use http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=94 for my subwoofer (found it for $30 or so on the internet), again no noise. Highly reccomended. Doug

I have the RF-83 system, sans RT-12d, for which I have substituted an RW-12d for the time being. I have the upgrade bug, but am on the fence about spending the cash. Give me some good reasons why I do or don't need to spend the extra $$$$ to upgrade. What will I notice the most, what won't be different, etc. The system is used 50/50 Home Theater / 2.1 Channel audio. I currently use the sub for frequencies below 40Hz on the FL and FR speakers. I don't really care about loudness necessarily because the system is never really turned up all the way or even half way for that matter. What I do care about is musical accuracy, noticeably lower Hz, and movie special effects ‘wow’ factor. My room is about 18x16x9 with large openings to the other rooms in the house. These speakers will eventually move to a dedicated HT room, but for now are in the living room. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Doug

How many of the 1/4-20 inserts are need to support the weight of the RS-62? I would assume at least 2. Are there any load ratings available on these? Thanks, Doug

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That is my setup... the wall mount is made by Sanus: http://www.sanus.com/us/en/products/ProductDetails/line/visionmount/pcat/crtTvMounts/modelCode/VMTV/layout/layout/ It is pretty cheap ($30 on amazon.com). It is nice because you can adjust the angle and it pivots - if the stud in your wall does not perfectly line up with the center of the TV. Doug

I have the Harmony® 550 (got it for free with the TV from Vann's.com). I didn't know how I would like it but it is all we use now! Easy to program and loaded with features. Doug

So it sounds like mounting them flat is the way to go. I must mount them on the back wall and the listening location is about 2 feet from this wall.On the topic - the wife says these must remain below the line of the couch, not above. The disadvantage to this is that if you slump between the couch and the speaker it will not be heard as well. Is this the only reason the recommended height is above the listening position? It seems as long as the speakers are not in line with the ear the effects would be the same (3ft below vs. 3ft above, etc.)? I know this isn't proper layout, but that is what happens when there is not a dedicated theater room. Doug

Forgot to add, do you need to use all 4 1/4-20 inserts to suport the weight of the speaker, or will two suffice? What are the load ratings of each mounting method (keyhole vs. 1 insert vs. 4 inserts, etc.?) Thanks Doug

Ok, I need to wall mount my RS-62 surrounds. The simplest method is probably to find a stud and use the keyhole bracket on the back of the speaker. What are the recommended brackets that use the 1/4-20 inserts on the back of this speaker if I want angle adjustability? Many of the brackets I have found cannot support the weight or size of the speaker. Also, are there any downsides to mounting the speaker upside down if the mount better suits it? They appear to be symmetrical and the grille seems to fit both ways.I have searched the forums but have not found what I am looking for. Thanks, Doug

Just like some DVD players show their brand name when you turn them on, I guess his A/V receiver does the same. Yeah - the receiver says Denon on it after a few seconds of inactivity.