Shock-Late

TBrennan, i like the sound 10000 times more than before. I think everybody should do this mod! The worse thing in the heritage line is the stock midrange horn. IMHO....

side view... blurred, sorry!

front view close up...

As far as I can say, LaScala and Klipschorn always shared the same crossovers...

Six months ago. Now the amp is different (it was still my MF A100X) and the midrange horn lenses sit on some books (until I buy some dampening feet).

With my old NAD CD player, i could hear ENORMOUS differences between different interconnects. With my new (better) Kenwood player, i don't hear them as much. Must be than some electronics are more sensitive to the cables you use with them. A matter of output/input impedance matching I'd say.

Well... I can't really understand WHY one would need to modify the crossover just because he uses some different horn lenses, assuming the cut off frequency is the same. But if you're telling me it really makes it sound better with those EVSM120A then maybe it's worth a try? (that's the great thing about this hobby: it's never over!) BTW, those horns look great the way you use them. I can't do the same, tho, as I'm using LS and the SM 120 horn is actually wider than the bass horn! No way to baffle-mount them... but I don't really care, it looks OK like that. Maybe I could buy some beautiful HI-FI dampening feet to put them on, would look more purposeful and probably damp some resonances...

Klipsch replacement woofers for the klipschorn will be the K33E, the one used in the actual klipschorn. Should be perfect for yours but I would order a pair if I was you. Just to keep the sound from left and right matched together! And, if i may point this out, the klipschorn is way better than the KLF 30, i don't see why it wouldn't work with heavy metal? i listen to loads of rock, electro and techno music on my scalas and they never complained... i even think they're better at it than with classical music...

Jim, what's that dual K77M driver on the pic???

Bernd, I agree with you, this horn sounds way better than the K400, and IMHO it is acually MORE detailed. I was amazed the first time I listened to them on my Scalas. I'll never return to the K400! Those EV horns sound much more natural, open, and give a much wider sweet spot. They look great, too! And they're not cast metal, so they don't ring!

i'm not using k-horns, but Scalas, wich means i can place them virtually anywhere in the room. Well, the best soundstage I get is by placing them along the long wall, far apart from eachother, and well toed-in. that way i get a very spacious soundstage. keep in mind however than most horn speakers image in FRONT of them rather than behind... wich can be good or bad depending on your tastes...

Dax, I have no experience with crown amps and they're supposed to be very good. That said, one shouldn't judge an amp by it's technical specs. I recently bought a second-hand, "technically unbeatable" very high end SEA5 technics amp, wich was technics' flagship series beginning 80's. Sounds like crap to me, even tho slew rate, damping factor and speed are among the best I've ever encountered... What's more, i'm not sure a high damping factor is good with high efficiency horn loaded speakers. Can make them sound thin at low volumes.

Wow... can you realize how lucky you were finding such an expensive woofer for only ten bucks???? Please, don't give it to your son! It's not designed for bass guitar purposes, anyways. And I'm pretty sure it would greatly outperform your cornwalls in terms of low bass extension and impact! (damn if I lived in the states I'd buy it from you to use it with my Scalas )

Well, maybe Plexiglass is stiff enough to offer same/better characteristics as wood? Must be awfully expensive tho!!!

---------------- On 3/23/2004 8:47:22 AM Al Klappenberger wrote: Curses.. I think I may have shot myself in the foot. If I keep improving the AAs nobody is going to be buying my networks! Al K ---------------- LOL... don't worry Al. All this is just tweaking until I have the money to buy you a pair of AlK's (or the ALKit)

That's great to see how some ridiculously minor changes to a crossover can have such an impact on the sound. I removed the zener two days ago, now this, and this almost makes my scalas sound like i changed the tweeters for something better! Now i'm on my way to buy some decent pair of 1uF poly caps. thanks again, Al

thanks Al! wow... ok, just removed the screws. sure sounds different, didn't really expect it would work! how come???

just downloaded that pict from the "wallpaper" link here on klipsch website... wow... Anyone knows when that "transparent klipschorn" has been built? bet there is only one pair?? Who owns it? It looks GREAT! wonder how it sounds... better or worse than wood?? I wonder if one could make the same thing with LaScala... would dream of a pair of "transparent scalas" in a contemporary house...yumm!!

screw?? what screw???

Yep, that A100X was probably a better amp for classical music, being smoother and warmer. But then classical music is only about 10% of what I listen to; and my biggest critical against that amp was that when watching a movie, the midrange was so laidback that I often couldn't understand the dialogues clearly. Plus I have flatmates who like to crank up the volume (me too) and I was always afraid I would come back home and find my amp burned out... I think the little NAD is more reliable. And... it has a remote ) I bought it new for 400 euro, so it's also the cheapest amp i ever bought. Good deal! Now going to upgrade my crossovers ;o)

hi all, I'm currently using a Nordost Solar Wind interconnect between my Kenwood DP7090 Cd and my NAD 320BEE amp. Sound is clear and dynamic but a bit too "sharp". Was thinking about swapping the Nordost cable for something like VanDenHul Thunderline. VandenHul carbon cables are supposed to sound smoother and richer in the bass than conventional copper/silver cables. just wondering if any of you guys have exp with those cables... thanks!

Just bought this little cheap NAD C320BEE amplifier and after one month I have to say it beats every SS amp I've had driving my LaScalas so far (including Musical fidelity A100X, Musical Fidelity Typhoon, Technics SEA5, NAD monitor series 1300 pre and 2600 amp). At least for the kind of music I listen to. This little amp is INCREDIBLY powerful, detailed, and the bass hits you full on. Timbre and ambience are also excellent, and the sound stays clean even at volumes where your walls and windows beg you to stop (not even mentioning your ears). i recommend it for anyone who owns picky Heritage series speakers and doesn't have the money for a MacIntosh...

Hey guys heres an amp i d like to buy... Its a Mati Otala design, hand made in Norway in the seventies, 100V/us slew rate, 0.35us risetime, only 20dB negative feedback, 11 first watts in class A (25 watts AB), was reviewed as the best sounding and fastest amplifier in the world by the Audio Critic mag. Any of you guys have some experience with this amp? im not sure its been exported to US... Its even difficult to find here in Europe and the price with matching preamp (less than 10ohms output impedance, wich means than virtually no other preamp can be used) is around 1000euros... picture included... very cool amp really... listened to one on a pair of JMLab Electra and it sounded great...

Just got my hands on it! this is a beautiful, slim integrated 2x50W strongly biased into class A (first 20 watts or so in pure class A). Ten years old integrated (sold under the British Fidelity brand in the US), bigger brother of the famous A1. Tim de Paravicini designed the amp. It replaces in my system a Musical Fidelity Typhoon power amp with rotel preamp. Price of the integrated about the same as both power amp and preamp together. Typhoon power amp is a 2x45W class AB amp. It almost burned down the first evening i listened to it; it was so warm in the room that the amp couldnt get his heat out properly. Now that the weather is back to normal i am able to listen to it without risk, even if it gets VERY warm. I am amazed at how differents those two amps from the same brand sound; the Typhoon sounded immensely dynamic and powerful, very upfront and fortright, yet quite cold and unbalanced on my Scalas. The A100X integrated sounds more "grown up": at first listen it seems less dynamic, but in fact its more balanced, warm and fluid sounding. Less transparent in the upper midrange but able to separate "layers" of sound amazingly. Wider soundstage, bass is less controlled but sounds smoother and deeper; i don t hear the reasonances of the listening room as much as before. Treble seems to go higher and has a "liquid" quality; voices are a little bit less articulate but better integrated and more natural sounding. Didnt have the time to listen to it at high volumes yet, but im sure it sounds amazing. So, you guys in the US should give a try to Musical Fidelity amps...

" And reading these 'reviewers' describe how they hear monstrous differences between interconnects, power cords, even accessories like mana stands! I tell you these people need therapy" Lemonman, I admit those accessories are often overpriced. But IMHO they CAN produce a great audible difference. It's ridiculous to say that because you own Klipsch speakers you can't make your system sound 5 or 10% better by choosing the right accessories. If your amplifier uses expensive components inside for better signal purity, it's silly to use bell-wire as speaker cable. If your CD player gives you the most detailed sound around it's silly to compromise that by using cheapy tandy interconnects. Same goes for vibrations: a good stand can really improve the sound. (in fact it doesn't improve the sound, it isolates it from spurious vibrations that shouldn't come in the way, OK...) It seems to me that just because klipsch speakers are easy to drive and sound quite good with most gear make some people think that you can't get more of them by taking every detail into account... just my thoughts of course. But IMHO if I can hear the differences between interconnects using Scalas, everyone can.