STL

I know this stuff seems to match my KG5.5s exactly, and yes mine are the vinyl covered variety. Since I wanted black, I didn't care if they were wood veneer or vinyl -- it's not like it changes the sound! I believe my brother-in-law's RF-3's are "wrapped" in the same stuff too.

I'm glad I didn't offend. Checkout this stuff at Parts Express: http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&Webpage_ID=3&DID=7&CAT_ID=48&ObjectGroup_ID=135&SO=2 It's essentially the same stuff Klipsch uses to cover their speakers. I've used it (in black) and it looks great. BTW, are you sure you're wife isn't an alien from Mars? Any woman that doesn't want to get rid of big speaker that looks like poo MUST really be an alien life form!

I'm not trying to be rude, by why bother with the old Sanyos? Do they really sound very good now? I'd watch eBay and buy same beat-up KG4s (or something similar) for cheap and build a new cabinets for them. Then at least you'd have something that sounds good (as well as looks good) when you are done.

On 2/22/2005 10:04:42 PM popbumper wrote: I am sending Dean the instructions and bare boards probably Thursday or Friday, to let him evaluate and critique. I lack one crucial drawing which needs to be included in the instructions, and is being worked on. So did they do out to Dean as planned? If so, giddyup Dean! I'm sure people want to hear your impression.

I want to know how the two horns used in the SS-1 are filtered. Are its two horns run off the same high pass filter? If so are they wired in parallel or series? On the SCW-1, I just want to know what the high pass section of the filter looks like.

I know both are 1" aluminum dome compression drivers with 5" square 90°x60° tractrix horn lens. The K-101-S is used in the SS-1 surround speakers whereas the K-111-S is used in the SCW-1 in-wall speakers. Is the sensitivity on these two raw drviers about the same? What about the impedances? Any information (even if it's just realitve differences) would be appreciated!

On 2/26/2005 11:34:14 PM popbumper wrote: In fact, I used to have to turn up the Academy about 3dB over the front speakers; NOW, I have to turn it DOWN. This doesn't make much sense to me. Since you didn't change the crossover design, your upgrade should not have anywhere near that drastic of an effect on sensativity.

From http://www.avrev.com/news/0205/17.klipsch.html : "Klipsch named two new senior executives to the management team from VantagePoint portfolio company Aurora Inc. John Carter, former chief engineer of Bose Corp., has been named chief technology officer of Klipsch. Tom Jacoby, former CEO of Harman Consumer Group, joined Klipsch as chief development officer and vice chairman." IMO, Klipsch's hiring of this former Bose guy seems like a bad thing for Klipsch.

On 2/22/2005 1:30:10 PM popbumper wrote: Let me know if you are still interested in some boards so that I can order them, and we can talk offline about details. Please also send me your email addy if you would. Thanks again! You already have my email address; you emailed me just last week. I am interested, but it really all depends on the price.

I am in for at least 5 bare PCBs...and maybe more depending on their cost. What is the length and width of the PCB? Just a thought, but you could try to incorporate the STACK+/- to be the the other output in a single board configuration.

Looking good Popbumper! You said in an earlier post that one board could support a Cornwall (Heresy) network, but I don't see separate outputs for the Tweeter and Midrange. Also, any idea what these boards might be priced at? I'm looking forward to see how the listening test go.

Only if you have a large room.

Thanks for the update!

Klipsch could probably supply you with them and/or try user BEC. These autoformers attenuate the midrange horn.

On 1/15/2005 12:54:54 AM Huston wrote: right but I want it to be as close to the real crossover as possible? Any Schemers out there? You should be aware that since you'll be using a different horn, you probably do not want to model the HP section of your crossover exactly like the Klipsch network. Also, Klipsch doesn't release schematics for their newer speakers -- only their old stuff.

And new status popbumper? I suspect the holidays had you busy with other things, but my curiousity is getting the best of me so I had to ask!

On 12/20/2004 7:35:08 PM fuzzydude wrote: I raise the level on the center a db or 2 other wise the fronts drown out the center. some movies when people are whispering I have to turn it up to hear clearly. Are you listening to a 5.1 source (like Dolby Digital or DTS) or a matrix-surround sound source (like Dolby Pro-Logic)? The problems you describe sound like the ones you'd be having listening to Pro-Logic. I myself can't imagine how you could prefer those Pioneers over a properly setup Klipsch set of speakers. The Klipschs will for sure sound different!

There are several on eBay.

http://www.audaud.com/audaud/MAR04/component/comp1.html This place references the review and incorrectly says the review is from Audiophile Magazine (instead of Audiophile Audition): http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/core/view_BigProduct.cfm?pid=1061&sc=32

Where are you getting all the Klipsch drivers to build the RC-3? I would think that buy the time you buy all the parts individually (from Klipsch) that it would cost you more to DIY. Besides, you should be able to find a used RC-3 on eBay for a fair price. Don't get me wrong, I'm all into DIY but in this case it seems like a waste of time/effort.

Why are you building one? Most people build centers that cannot be bought either because Klipsch never marketed anything that big (as in my case) or because they are so rare (i.e. Academys). Neither of those cases apply to a RC-3.

These would be good rear speakers: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=58573

What you REALLY need is more KG speakers -- not Synergy or Reference! Just keep an eye out at eBay. It should not be hard at all. Get yourself a KG-2.2V or KV-3 for the center. For the rears just about any KG speaker should work.

No need to apologize popbumper. I was wanted to point it out so other would know!

I believe your first-run boards should work for the Cornwall IIs also. Looking at the schematics for the Cornwall II and Chorus (that I sent you) they look very similar and actually share the exact same coil values. Please take a closer look and let me know if I'm wrong. BTW, the B2 schematic I have for a Cornwall shows it having only a 2.5mH LF coil. So is there some other reason it wouldn't be supported in the first-run?