STL

I would just go with RCRs for the rear sense you're going to be mounting them in the ceiling. The tweeter is a little better in the RCWs but you just get reflected sound from rear speakers anyhow so I think the RCRs would work fine. Hey, how do you like your RP-3s? How are the subs? Have you ever tried just using one of the built-in 10" powered subs (and then tweaking the level setting to compensate)? I was wondering if one would still produce a good amount of low end?

Just curious, at what frequency are you crossing over the subwoofer on the RP-3s? Thanks for the info. That's exactly what I needed!

Is the single 10" subwoofer (with a 440W-peak amp) as good or better than the KSW-10? I see the KSW-10 uses a different model 10" woofer, but the amp it uses is also only rated at 325W-peak. I'm thinking of using the subwoofer parts from one RP-3 (in a new box) to be my lone subwoofer in a HT setup. Anyone out there own a RP-3?

Avman, Getting a used one via eBay is probably your best option (and finding a lone one there will still take patience). Just be sure to check the sellers feedback for any negative comments. If they have 40+ positives without any negatives and they been around for a couple years then it is generally a pretty safe bet. If they only have one or two negatives then you might need to investigate deeper (maybe the other guy was the problem) before proceeding, but they still might be a good seller. Also be aware you don't HAVE to buy a KLF20. You could focus mainly on getting the midrange and tweeter horns. The tweeter horn is the K-79-K and was used in the CORNWALL II, CHORUS I & II, KLF 20, and KLF 30. The midrange horn is the K-52-K and was used in the HERESY, CORNWALL, KLF 20, and KLF 30. It's mainly the horns that determine a timbre match. I do agree buying a KLF20 or 30 would make it a lot easier for you.

I already have a good soldering station so that is not the issue. I am considering using speaker disconnects (like this: ) instead of soldering to the speaker terminals strictly out of convenience. Using disconnects would simplify the rewiring process and make it much easier to remove drivers in the future.

Would there be much benefit to replacing the internal wiring in my Klipschs with some better speaker wire, like Monster Cable XP or XP-HP, but not soldering the speaker connections (instead using speaker disconnects like the OEM wiring)? Has anyone already tried this?

Actually all my drivers came shield. I bought a lone KG4.2 (that's where I got the K-85-K horn for my center) on eBay and was very surprised to find that it was video shielded.

I am first going to try the "stock" KG4.2 crossover, but I suspect I will be modding it at least a little. Theoretically by putting two of the K-1075-SV drivers in series (and the other two in series) then puting each series-pair in parallel, I should get roughly the same impedance as the K-1001-K woofer that came with the KG4.2 (so the KG4.2 crossover as-is should work decently). While comparing the crossover of the KG5.5 and KG4.2 I did see some differences that don't really make sense. For the HP section I'll just change the KG4.2 to match the KG5.5 (since the tweeters are the same), but it might take a little re-engineering on the LP section. Time to get out the frequency generator... I have to give a big thanks to Trey Cannon for chatting with me about this very subject yesterday.

Ironically enough, all my drivers have bucking magnets (even though I don't need them)!

I saw that lone KLF20 eBay. I'm glad to hear someone here picked it up. Did you see my latest addition? More info: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=30935&sessionID={D483F441-8A4C-48C6-83DE-CBE9D442451E}

I'll buy those KM-6s from you for a couple hundred dollars! They are basically the same as KG5.5s. Specifications for both can be found at www.klipsch.com under the Classics link.

I don't know how it sounds yet! The speakers were just put there for the picture. I want to get the unit fully complete before installing any of the drivers. That way I will stay motivated to get it all done! I also forgot to mention that I used 3/4" MDF and did a lot of internal bracing too. I have six braces (one between each speaker) on the motherboard and two more on the rear panel. I was going to use a double thick motherboard on the front but decided the bracing would be just as effective (and make the enclosure weigh less).

The enclosure is built, but I still need to finish it so it looks as good as my KG5.5s! The horn is a K-85-K (same as the KG5.5) and the woofers are 6.5" K-1075-SVs (used in the original SF-1 and SF-2). The 4 woofers should move the same amount of air as the two 10" woofers in each KG5.5, and the 6.5" cones should produce slightly tighter bass and better midrange. I elected to go with four 1.5" flared ports for the venting, and it's tuned to about 38Hz (which is very close to what SF-1s are tuned to). The front motherboard is angled 10 degrees down since this will be place above my 55" Mits. I'll post more pictures once it is fully complete.

TTT

---------------- On 2/5/2003 8:11:31 PM redtop wrote: What do these do and how important is the foam position in the enclosure given that I have clustered the horn, woofer and port near the center of the enclosure? ---------------- I would try to place the foam behind the drivers in their new configuration. It probably wouldn't hurt to be behind the port too as long as the foam stays against the back wall.

I see the original Heresy uses K-77 and K55 horns while the newer one uses K-76 and K53 horns. I'm wondering which set of drivers is better.

---------------- On 1/31/2003 6:20:03 PM tblasing wrote: Well, it went pretty well given the amount of time it took (24 solder connections per speaker). I was just planning on crimping connectors for my re-qire and not soldering the wires, but come to think of it that probably wouldn't get me much benefit. Has anyone tried rewiring with just crimped-on connectors instead of soldering? If so, what were your results?

So you got that good deal on eBay! I was trying to talk my brother-in-law into getting that setup, but he kept dragging his feet. If you have a projection TV (front of rear) then you don't have to worry about the magnets causing problems when placing the speaker on top of the TV. If you have a regular tube TV then you need to call 1-800-KLIPSCH and get the bucking magnets. Then all you need is some good epoxy and some clamps.

---------------- On 1/31/2003 7:59:32 PM talktoKeith wrote: I always liked my KG's with the exception of their edge. Thanks again. ---------------- Is the edge you are talking about coming from the horns? If so, have you caulked your horns? Just curious...

I plan on rewiring mine with some old monster cable I've had laying around for years. I also plan to use some dynamat or caulk on the horns. Right now, I'm building my center channel speaker using a K-85-K horn as well as four K-1075-SV 6.5" woofers. I'll be wiring those speakers from the get go with monster cable, then later I'll redo my KG5.5s.

BTW, since MDF is so dense you will want to pre-drill all holes. I'm using a bit that will drill the deep hole (for the screw shaft) and a shallow hole (to counter sink the screw head) at the same time.

While plywood might hold screws better over time (if you take them in and out a lot), it will not be better when it comes to vibration. MDF in much denser and heavier, therefore has better resistance against movement (i.e. vibration). Some people use 1" thick MDF for motherboards, but I decided to use 0.75" all around and just do some good bracing on the front motherboard (as well as elsewhere in the enclosure).

I don't have my hands on them yet...that's what I'm asking! Thanks for the info though...

Based on my emails with Trey talking about several KG series speakers, I think you can safely assume all sides are 0.75" MDF. I thought you have two other KG3.5s already (so why not pull out a driver and measure them)?

So would they be any good for 2 channel stereo? Or are they only good for doing HT surround?