tlarwa

I also have a matched pair of Sylvania 7868's if you are interested. The last pic is the Sylvanias plus one other orphan 7868. I can send more pictures if needed. GE's are SOLD $55.00 for the pair of Sylvanias Tom

I'll take 'em. I'm a sucker for Christmas music. Where are you located? I'm in Lake Geneva. PM sent,,,

SOLD

Audiophile-grade speaker selector. This is the good one, with 5-way binding posts, and high-power handling capability. It is in perfect cosmetic and functional condition. SOLD I also have a pair of ~30" speaker cables that work well between your amp and the GFS-4. Bananas on both ends, finsihed in techflex. 4-pr twisted construction. I can throw those in for an extra $25.00. They were made specifically to use with this selector, so I don't really have another use for them. I'd also consider a trade for a decent MM cartridge for my second table (Pioneer PL-50A).

Price?

SOLD!

They were painted to matchmy listening room (see attached pics). There was a lot of debate in the house on how to finish them. They actually look really good, but probably not ideal if you have a bright green room or something...

Not sure if there will be any interest, but it's worth a try. These are Frugel-Horn Mk3 rear horn loaded speakers. They utilize a single 4" full range driver, the Mark Audio CHP-70 eN (see attached data sheet). The drivers were purchased new from Planet10 earlier this year. I built the speakers using Baltic Birch ply and high qualityinternal wiring. The cabinets are fully glued ... no fasteners were used. The stabilizers have adjustable spikes attached for solid footing to the floor. They are painted a darker red with a black rear horn area, and look pretty good. They could be veneered if you prefer that look (not by me though!). These speakers sound very good, with a terrific mid-range and excellent imaging. The bass is remarkably good when corner-loaded. I used them with a sub (Klipsch SW-10) so I didn't need to have them fully corner-loaded, and they performed well. Google them for tons of input. There's a couple very long threads on DIYAudio.com as well. These excel for vocals and jazz ... Sorry for the sideways pictures, I couldnt get them to stay rotated for the life of me! I can send them to you via email if you prefer. SOLD. Local pick-up only in the SE WI/NW Chicago area. CHP-70_Gen.2_natural_Eng.pdf

I sent you a PM ... I work in Muskego.

There's only one input that's useable for the phono pre (the AUX input). I don't run run a digital source, although I can run my iphone into it. I guess the only thing that would rule out as an issue is the phono preamp though. The only other test would be to run the tt into the Fisher's phono stage. I can try that to see if it makes a difference. I'm also going to put my Frugel-Horns into the system to see if it's the speakers or the amp that's the issue.

Yes. Leaving the volume knob at the same position and then listening through the headphones, I do not hear the imbalance towards the right channel.

Wow, weird formatting on that last reply!

Would a "dead spot" just cause the volume to diminish, or would it cause the whole channel to cut-out? Seems to me it would be the latter, but that's just a guess. I can certainlyDeoxIT the pot, just in case.

System is a Fisher 400 tube receiver, Parks Audio Budgie phono preamp, Empire 398 tt and Klipsch Forte II speakers. Here's the issue; I was listening at a volume level much lower than usual (my wife had friends over)... around 1.5 - 2 on the volume knob (I usually listen around 3-4). I noticed that the image, which is typically dead center, was shifted towards the right channel. Thinking is may have been the recording, I tried several other albums, all with the same result. When turning the balance fully left and right, it was apparent that the left speaker was a little quieter than the right one. All the drivers are working fine, and both channels sounded good, but the left was indeed quieter than the right (which was causing the image to shift towards the right). Well, once my wife's friends left and I was able to turn up the volume a bit, the image snapped right back into focus and was dead center again, as it ususally is. It seems that once the volume knob gets above 2.5 or so the issue goes away. I'm at a loss as to why I'd have this issue only at very low volume levels. Any idea if this is a tube issue, or something else? By the way, I listened at the same low level through my headphones, and the balance issue didn't seem to be there). Any help or ideas would be appreciated! Tom

I have the budgie with the SUT also ... I think mine is #3! I rolled some Amperex Holland orange labels in, as recommended by Sean, and they sound great. And they weren't ridiculously expensive either.

I can't decide which I like better. Anyone else here running this combo? And theoretically, what difference in sound should I hear from one to the other (smoothed out highs, extended bass, ??). By the way, the Forte's are modded .. new tweet and mid diaphragms, cabinet bracing, rebuilt crossovers, etc. Thanks for the input. __________________ Empire 398, Denon DL-103, Parks Audio Budgie phono pre (MM/MC), Fisher 400 w/ Bizzy Bee mods, Klipsch Forte II and DIY Frugel-horn Mk3, Klipsch SW-10 sub

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=544764

Exactly why I don't even think about doing any work on my Fisher 400 receiver ... I'm not getting anywhere near tube equipment.

I wasn't trying to flaunt a degree or anything, in fact, I'm what you'd call a "non-practicing" engineer! But I have had my share of electrical engineering classes in the past, so I know the difference between an ohm, volt and amp! It's one thing to be able to read a schematic and quite another to be able to build something from it. I appreciate the pics ... I'm a decent solder-er, but I haven't done much work on circuit boards. I'll just take my time and do the best i can!

And where do I measure across? On the board itself, I assume? Measuring across the cap won't tell me anything except the value of the cap. I want to make sure my solder joints are good and I didn't damage the board in any way. Oh, and you don't have to take it down to the simplest level for me ... I have a degree on mechanical engineering. I'm just not that experienced with the practical side of working on electronics. I'm learning though! Thanks for the help. Tom

I'll be soldering new caps onto my Forte II crossovers tomorrow, and would like to test them prior to resinstalltion to make sure everything is right. I have a meter, I'm just not sure what I should measure that will tell me they check out properly. Any help? Tom

I just got pricing from North Creek on 10AWG and 12AWG inductors, and it looks like I can get them all for somewhere around $200. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on it. I just need to learn how to mount them on a separate board, and whether I can wire them into the stock crossover boards, since I'm still using them (mounted to the terminal cups). I've never done this type of work, so I like to have it all lined out before I pull the trigger. I can definitely do one at a time once I get the project started. I'd like to hear the difference as well (although the real difference is supposed to be in the width/depth of the soundstage, so I'm not sure how that will translate if it's only done to one side at a time).

We'll see how the bracing affects the bass. The volume of the bracing is only .095 cu.ft., which is only 3.5% of the total interior volume of the cabinet. It looks worse in the pictures ... kind of like the saying in golf that trees are "90% air". They sure don't look like it. I think the small reduction in volume will be made up for in tranferring energy to moving air instead of moving cabinet walls. As for the stands, they are essentially the same thing as the stock risers, just taller. And if I screw them to the bottoms of the cabinets they will be no less coupled than the original risers were. In all of my positioning experiments with various speakers, I've preferred having the mids at ear level in my listening room. The Forte II's have plenty of bass for my room size (12'x19') so I'm not worried about losing bass. I just want to get it more "punchy" and not bloated. Like anything DIY, I'm sure I'll learn some things. Some will be good, others not so good.

Good input on the passive mod. Maybe I'll wait to do it until I get them buttoned up and in position to see how I like them as designed. I guess it would be easier to add them later if I wanted than to take them off. Thanks.

I'm following Moray's lead on the passive mod. He claims it'll give about a 3dB boost to the bottom end. I figure it's worth a try. The passives are so easy to remove that I can always take the weight off if I don't like the results.