sootshe

Applying the grill cloth to the frames

Yes, I know what you mean. I thought I'd take some when they're properly set up in the room. Should be about another week or two. Thanks for your inspiration to build these Greg.

....in the dust proof spray booth. ( I don't think you'll notice Sooty once they're sprayed black)

....and here's the bass grilles & horn baffles awaiting the coat of black lacquer

....and again

.......and waiting for veneer to be appield to external surfaces to cover screws used for assembly.

Both sets of cabs complete with final veneer on all inside surfaces

With components cut for Horn cab assembly on top

Bass cabs now complete

And from the side. Notice the 45 degree angle piece from top to bottom at the intersection of the rear panel & the side panel.

Another angle.....dark oak on the bottom 2 cabs & Tassy oak on the top 2.

Previous photos are the mock up from which the real cabs will be duplicated. Here is a photo of the first stage with the dog house, tops & bottoms constructed from the veneered ply. We are making 2 sets....1 in Tasmanian Oak & 1 in a darker oak. Next week will continus with the completion of the bass cabs & starting the horn cabs.

I'll try to answer your question in laymans terms as best I understand it. Active crossovers are generally used in professional sound reinforcement applications to increase the efficiency of the system & tailor the frequency of the crosover points of the many types of speakers involved. Using an amplifier for each section of the frequency band produces a much more efficient use of power than using a single larger amplifier to drive the whole system. For example: A particular system may have a 500 watt RMS per channel amp to drive a particular speaker system to a certain loudness level through a passive crossover. If you were to bi-amp as, say a simple 2 way system, then you could potentially use a 100 watt RMS per cahnnel amp for the bottom end & a 50 watt RMS per channel amp on the top end to achieve the same sound pressure level with less distortion. (The power figures I have chosen are purely arbitrary for the purpose of illustration). Sound reinforcement systems are nearly always set up this way. The other benefit is that you can limit the power going to each driver to avoid distortion. You can apply this to K Horns but you will need a stereo 3 way active crossover & 3 power amps if you are going to run it as a standard 3 way system. If you were to replace the tweeter & mid drivers with a high frequency unit that extended to 20 Khz & went 2 way, you'd still need an additional power amp & lets not forget the extra run of speaker cable which can be veryyyyyy expensive if you're using exotic cable types. I've been down this road before & yes, it's fun, like anything new that you try. As you become older & wiser you get to appreciate the simplicity of a simple system & the sound that it can reproduce. Is bi-amping any better than through a passive? Well, how longs a piece of string. I've heard sysytems that sound terrible bi-amped & standard set ups that are magnificent. If you want to try it....try it. If not, the sound from Khorns is truly magnificent already.

So thats how you make the jubs blend into your decor!!

Or you could go for the new heritage logos....pie shaped. I just ordered some from Klipsch.

The best Crown amp I ever had was an Amcron DC300A (is that a Crown) ......I think so. Renowned for its sound quality....150 WPC....no fans....& about the same vintage as early KHorns & La Scalas. I realise you can't buy this anymore but a refurbed unit would be awesome.

Way to go .....you can never have too much power! And you're right - they do sound different.

Well, I suppose I'll be the first guinea pig. Audio Research, Krell, Mark Levinson, VTL, Wavac, LAMM,Conrad-Johnson, McIntosh, & the list goes on.

I'll try to give you my opinion in general terms rather than technical terms. It's much better to have too much power than not enough. Most speaker blow outs are caused by the amplifier "clipping". That is, the amplifier runs out of power & the musical signal is no longer clean, but is introducing distortion. This will fry your tweeters. Bass drivers are much more robust & you will usually hear audible distortion before you blow them. Remember, you can never put the smoke back in once its come out!! I have run La Scalas biamped with a 360 watt per channel on the bottom end & a 150 watt per channel on the top end without any problems whatsoever. In general if you use a quality high powered amp you have less chance of blowing your speakers than an inferior low powered amp. I recall a quote from Paul where he mentioned that Klipschorns needed a quality distortion free amp (especially in the bottom end) rather than any sort of ultimate power rating. Hope this helps.

I can't take credit for these myself. ( I wish I could do fine work like this!) A friend of mine is a cabinetmaker & he is doing all the technical stuff... he is very fastidious & we have been over & over the plans to ensure the finished product will be as I envisage it. His equipment will cut the 30 degree & 60 degree angles required for the doghouse & the ramps, so then it becomes a relatively easy operation.

Heres a photo of the cabinet I'm matching it to. It won't be exactly the same but will be very close.

Yes that is very close to the colour Bill. It will be just clear lacquered, no stain at all. This will match the equipment cabinet that I have.

Cabinet glued & screwed together

Horn cabinet will have 4 x rubber bushes to support it on the bass cab

Grill cloth wiill cover horn enclosure & inset into bass bins