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I would suggest that you buy whatever is cheapest. 16 - 18 gauge Radio Shack speaker wire is just as good as the most expensive wire you can Google for. http://consumerist.com/2008/03/do-coat-hangers-sound-as-good-monster-cables.html

I wound up recreating the label in Microsoft Word, using a logo I found on the Klipsch site. The font is not identical, but close. My printer lets me scale the size, so I reduced it. I then scanned the document and saved it as a jpg. As you can see, it turned out fairly well. I'm not sure of the original dimensions, but this is close enough for my purposes. The background is an extremely light eggshell so that they don't look brand spanking new [H] They should go well with my new ALK crossovers. The veneer is African Paduak. It's a little reddish for my tastes, but has a nice grain pattern.

I'll crank up CorelDraw this weekend and see what I can do with it. Never used the program since I bought it, so wish me luck. If anyone else wants to try their hand, I sure wouldn't complain. Appreciate it, speakerfritz. I'll post the results when I get it loooking clean.

These are not cloned cabinets. While they've been veneered, came with the original speakers, along with some very dusty AL crossovers, it would be a stretch for someone to go through all that trouble and sell them for old La Scala's. Back edge stamped serial numbers post date these La Scala's. Yes, I'm going to clone some labels and sell these for vintage La Scala's. Not. Cut me a physical break.

Nope, I'm not going to sell them. I just wanted them to look 'complete' :>) These appear to be 1983's, judging that they had AL crossovers when I got them. There's no sign of any stamped serial numbers anywhere on the edges, much to my dismay. EDITED: Here's the label thread, unfortunately he made them for KHorns: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/54704/527211.aspx#527211

I'm not sure. They were refinished by the previous owner. I can't find a hint of the original serial number anywhere on either speaker. The back of the speakers were repainted and I couldn't find anything stamped into the wood. I even pulled a bass bin bottom cover to see if there was one inside.

Folks, I have a pair of early 1980's La Scala's that were refinished. The labels that had the serial numbers were lost/destroyed during the re-veneering by the company that did it. Does anyone have a scan, or can point me to one so that I can dummy up another set of labels? Thanks.

Dean, I appreciate the links and discussion. Very informative!

Thanks for the bump on the other thread. I believe I'll recap the old crossovers with my el-cheapo caps and see if I can tell any difference.

I've been involved in the restoration of antique radios for years. Those of us that do are fairly meticulous when it comes to the replacement of electrolytic caps, as well as paper and leaky mica caps. Not to mention out of tolerance carbon resistors that have drifted over the years. We use quality, newly manufactured capacitors and can get these antique radios sound as good as the day they were manufactured. I recently bought a pair of La Scala's and was naturally concerned with the 25 year old caps in the crossovers. I ended up building a set of ALk's to replace the AL's which were original. They sound much better, but I attribute that to a good crossover design and new capacitors. In studying the new caps, and doing a bit of research, I agree that the cap construction is excellent, but I'm curious as to the prices that these type of caps command, and if they are worth the 10x to 100x the price of 630V polypropylene (and similar) caps. We have a discussion going on an antique radio forum, and here's the consensus of opinion summed up by one poster: A company called Hovland manufactures capacitors that are touted to be the perfect audio capacitor. Their sub-brands are MusiCaps and AuriCap. Here's their description of AuriCaps as found in the Antique Electronic Supply catalog ( http://www.tubesandmore.com ): Auricap High resolution capacitors. Used in Airtight, Bottlehead and Rowe! Tolerance – ±10%. Jennifer WhiteWolf-Crock of Jena Labs, http://www.jenalabs.com writes: "Auricap has become my reference standard for audio caps. My customers always comment about how much better and more natural their audio gear sounds when I install Auricaps. The highs are smooth and clear without tizzyness or hash or dulling roll off. The mids are meaty and full of emotions when the source offers it. ‘Three D' sound staging should be Auricaps middle name. Bass is tight and well connected, chesty and textured with power and authority. Best of all is not that these separate frequency groups sound so good as separate elements, but that they sound so ‘together' and ‘as one whole' when music plays through them. I sense no loss of rhythm, pacing, or emotion in circuits that employ these parts. An outstanding technical feat." Note that in 2003, these capacitors range in price from $6.25 to 10.95 each for 450 volt units ranging from 0.1µF to 1.5µF and from $8.45 to 25.95 each for 600 volt units ranging from 0.0022µF to 1µF. The descriptive jargon above just floors me. How can a capacitor be "high resolution"? What's to resolve? High resolution in electronics usually refers to the ability of a video display to resolve fine detail or to the ability of an analog-to-digital converter to resolve down to a lot of bits. How does audio gear sound more natural? They're listening to a reproduction of something that they never heard as the original performance, so how can they know what's natural? What are smooth and clear highs? For matter, what would rough and muddy highs sound like? Smooth is a characteristic of scotch whisky, a freshly sanded board or a new blacktop road. Clear usually refers to the water in a Rocky Mountain stream, window glass or a good explanation. Tizzyness? Now there's a good one to look up in a dictionary. I think that "tizzy" may describe Jennifer WhiteWolf-Crock. Hash is a food type. It's what you do with a knife when you make a series of close cuts, usually with a chopping motion. It's the RFI you hear with the rapid opening and closing of contacts, hence the term "vibrator hash" in old car radios. A dulling roll off. I know what roll off is. Has to do with the upper and lower cutoff points of filters or amplifiers. A smooth roll off means that it rolls off with predictable characteristics and always in the same direction. A sharp roll off means that it falls off quickly, but still smoothly. A dull roll off. Boring? Not too smart? Meaty describes chili or soup, not sound. So what's a meaty sound versus one without any meat at all? Is possible for a vegan to enjoy music played through equipment using these capacitors? How can sound be full of emotion? Can the original performance lack emotion and the reproduction be full of emotion? I thought only humans had emotion. Tight bass. Sounds like a cheap quartet member. A well-connected bass must know the President. A chesty bass must be a well-endowed member of a Sweet Adeline barbershop quartet. A textured bass must have had a terrible acne problem as a teenager. A bass with power likely works out every day and one with authority IS the President! I love it when frequency groups sound "together" and "as one whole". So why do we divide them up into groups then? I cannot imagine any electronic device other than a variable digital delay causing any problems with rhythm or pacing. That seems to me to be something that has to do with the original performers. All of these descriptive terms are not measurable. They are strictly subjective opinions based upon ear of the listener, and no two listeners are alike, nor will they agree on anything. In fact, the only other persons who use terms like these are either chefs or interior designers. I'd like to know the constructive thoughts of other board members concerning what justifies the cost of the above capacitors. Has anyone done any sort of side by side comparison of these expensive caps and standard replacement caps? Any web links to realistic articles? Thanks

I purchased a pair of 1983 La Scala's late last year which had the original Klipsch AL crossovers. Rather than recap them (because of their age), I ordered an ALK kit from Al. The sound is so much clearer from the mid-range horns now. I've not heard the Crites crossovers. I'm quite pleased.

I just ordered one from them for $799.77 plus sales tax but free shipping... https://www.wwstereo.com/

Thanks for the info - I appreciate it. Maybe I can get a size of the original label and a picture from someone here, then create one in Word.

Folks, Several months ago I got a pair of Lascala's from eBay. I'd been searching for several months before I found a pair within driving distance. It seems that when they come up, they're usually in the mid-west or west and shipping would be pretty high and vulnerable to shipping damage. The seller had them veneered in African Paduak, with the backs and openings finished in a nearly flat black. Unfortunately, the people who had done the work removed the paper labels with the serial numbers and discarded them. Because they now have the AL crossovers, I believe that dates them to 1983. I have a pair of ALK universal crossover networks due in this week that I plan to build and install next weekend. When I do that, I'm going to inspect the cabinet interiors in hopes to find where the serial numbers might have been wriiten. If I can find any, I'll email Klipsch to see if I can get two paper labels for replacements. Does anyone know where the serial numbers could be found? Thanks

Thanks for your help, Amy. I just tried changing the picture (skipping the upload button step) and got the following dreaded message again: Please correct the following issues: Web Address is not a valid URL

I'm running Windows XP.

Well, I'm just baffled. I'm using jpg's. I've resized them from 200x200 down to 90x90. And the picture size is from 4k to 1.5k. I browse to the picture I want to use, and the path is shown in the 'Upload Avatar' box. I click the radio button for 'Enable Avatar' Then I click the 'Update' button. The screen swiches and goes black, coming back in a few seconds. The 'Avatar URL' is filled in with: users/avatar.aspx?userid=33161&lastmodified=633617281124125687. When I click on the 'Save' button I get a message at the top of the form that says: 'Please correct the following problems:' 'Web Address is not a valid URL'

How does one add an avatar? I've tried tiny, small and medium pictures in gif and jpg. After browsing to the picture on my computer, I click the update button. The screen goes elsewhere to a black screen then comes back with the URL filled in. I click on save, and I'm informed that it's not a valid URL. It can't be that hard. Thanks.