htxpert

Hi all I have been trying to explain proper bass management to my client for years.I now have a link that will explain this in great detail much better than I can.Please read Brian Florian's reply in the thread,print it frame it and hang it in your HomeTheater Here is the link www.avsforum.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/003524.html

Hi Paul If you have a capable subwoofer select the small setting Xover at 80Hz for the front mains Also you may want to experiment with the center at 120Hz Dont forget to adjust the Xover on the Subwoofer to a setting higher than that of your highest Xover You may have a small localization problem,but at least you will not be giving up any part of the LFE the trade off is more than worth it. I have been telling people for years that the correct setting for all speakers is small in 98% of the systems Even if you ran full range towers in the front a small setting is correct I am going to post a link in the Home Theater section on Bass Management Cheers Ray

Hi I think you are right about the RSW15,however the KSW15 is a current product.

Hey want to know a dirty little secret? Some of the other heavy hitters in the speaker manufacturing buisness have higher margins by offering its dealers bigger incentives. Now what is the lesson here gang? Hmmm can you say higher proffit margin for the dealers and more inventory moved for the manufacture? I guess some dealers need an exuse to show you the other lines,bagging on the Klipsch product becomes very easy when its dollars and cents Ok SalesManship 101 out of class Cheers Ray

Hi NT2 If you can afford the RS-7 and can find them Run to your local Klipsch dealer and buy them Hang them,dont look back,and dont think about another rear surround.Is your toung hanging out yet? It should be

Hmmmmmmm One of the best budget cone midranges I have heard is the Audex AreoGel.The raw driver list is a measly $79 and is used in the Pinnacle Classic Gold Areo Gel and the Legacy Manhatten as well as there center

Hi Ralph If you intend to fully appreciate the .1 LFE channel in Movie tracks (IE) U-571 and other bass heavy action flicks a dedicated Subwoofer is absolutly nessesary. If you are considering the RF-7 it better be a good subwoofer to "keep up" At minimum a KSW15 also using a dedicated sub will alleviate the stress factor and power reqirements for your front mains to reproduce the lower octaves in the tracks you will also gain amplifire head room hope this helps --> hee,hee I said "Hope"

Hi PS I would not recommend using 2 pairs of RS-7 for the sides and the rears.I think you do better with RS-7 on the sides and a direct radiator on the rear.The RS-7 is a WDST type speaker having 4 of them 2 on the sides and 2 on the rear could infact ruin your channel seperation It would be almost too ambient.I belive Lexicon and most other 7.1 preamps recommend a direct radiator on the rear.The THX spec for the EX Channel is also for a direct radiator.This is to simulate a rear center image from 2 direct radiators cheers Ray

Hi John I dont understand why you are using 2 Ht pre amps but I will take a crack at helping you with a setup with the Lex DC-2 I am taking for granted that you have installed the latest version 4.0 for the Lex DC-2 ? If so this is what I would do if you have the room KLF 30 upfront KLF C-7 center RS-7 sides RB-5 or RB-3 rears now if you use the BE (Bass Enhance) feature you may also want to use a ksw12 or ksw15 at either side below the RS-7's The DC-2 has good bass management and the BE is very good.I think you will find this system to be exceptional in conjuction with the DC-2 in Logic 7 mode.The RS-7's should be mounted at the null of the listening position,about 2-3 feet above the seated ear level.The RB-5 or RB-3 a direct radiator should be at the same height as the sides,and not to close to opposing side walls.The idea here is to keep the 2 sides and 2 rears the same height.This will make pans from RS-RR-LR-LS in Logic 7 mode or THX EX mode seemless.It will also give you a huge rear sound stage that is quite ambient and non directional when it needs to be.I am not a big fan of using 2 sides mounted in the null up high (Were they need to be) inconjuction with a floor stander in the rear with DC-1.DC-2 or the MC-1 I have never been able to get them to sound quite right this way.I may be wrong and would love to hear others who have tryed this Hope this helps Ray

Hi Phil YGM! Happy Listening !

Hi I am suprised that no one has replyed to your thread,I will try and make a few suggjestions #1 Attend CEDIA and CES this is where you will find a lot of manufacuters #2 Attend the Professional A/V Retailers Assc. seminar (PARA) #3Apply for the free Residetial Systems publication www.resmagonline.com In the back you will find a Career Market Place section where Manufatures and Installers are looking for Professional help #4 Be prepaired for long hours at low pay you dont enter the A/V buisness for the money hours invested VS money earned is very low Even if you are qualified for the position you may have to spend time at a lower position to prove yourself

Yikes!!!!!!! I in no way meant to imply that 2 ea RC-7's would compare to a pair of K-Horns Now look what you went and did,The Heritage gods are going to strike me down

Hi all over the weekend I was farting around and decided to try 2 ea RC-7 centers as front mains.As you know the RC-7 if turned vertically will be in a MTM configuration.I didn't turn the tweeter 90 degrees It can be,but I was astonished at the preformance of a pair of these in this configuration as the left and right.I didnt have another RC-7 for the center but what a wow effect.I think that 3 RC-7's in the front would be awesome,can you say seemless.This may be just the ticket for thoes of you with limited floor space in the front.anyone else consider this? I may put up a display with 2 of these in a 2 channel system just to show them Cheers Ray

Hi Again,<-- slow weekend here Boa Did you build saddles for the magnets to rest in when you did the install? If not did you have a problem with the front baffle and the four screws supporting the weight? I have to install these for a client and thought I would build a saddle brace for the magnet stucture to rest on inside the enclosure like this ---U--- out of a piece of 3/4" plywood a U notch will be cut out where the Magnet rests and weather stripping will be applyed on the cut out to prevent any unwanted resonance I have done this with subs I built in the past that have heavy magnet structures.I had often thought that the KLF30 didnt have much front baffle to support the weight of the 2x12" woofers to begin with

Hi Ok here is the tweek: I have installed many systems based on the Legend line after the first few installs I noticed a slight buzzing sound at high SPL levels.I traced this to the ports that are pressed into the rear of the enclosure.These ports pop out very easy.If you notice the buzzing problem a small tube of silicone will correct the problem.But this got me thinking about the roll off that my KLF-30's have below 45hz or so and realized that the port length of the 30's were short, to gain high efficency and promote a slight hump at or around 50-70Hz.I pulled out one of the ports and went to Home Depot.In the plumbing section I found a Black ABS coupler that fit perfectly over the end of the port,I had my choice of 4" or 6" length, I bought both pairs.The way you have to install them is put the Klipsch port back in the enclosure and then remove the bottom woofer,then slip the ABS coupler over the part of the port that is protuding from the back of the enclosure untill snug and replace the woofer.This effectivly lowered the FS of the enclosure with a small price in effiency,but I like the result The bottom end is much fuller,less shallow and tighter than the stock configuration,I have confirmed this with my Delta subwoofer sweeps test disk.The tweek is easy to remove if you dont like it,but at the very least you should use a small amount of silicone around the stock ports to keep them from buzzing Tweek on and sorry about the spelling errors Dohhhh!

Hi I have heard that people were buying the hole lot from Ubid and then reselling them on E-bay I dont know if its true or not.I guess if you start seeing a glut of them on E-bay we will know have a great weekend

Hi I think you maty have you models mixed up, the RC-7 center is the RF-7 tower is the RS-7 surround is not

Hi All Yes phase switch should only be use to blend LF with the mains,but for reasons I can explain and dont understand we have found that changing phase on severall different models of subs including Klipsch accually gave us a net db gain either at 0 or 180 I have no idea why,anyone know? Bob? PS I have a tweek for the KLF 30 that I didnt find in the archives if anyone is interested its a trade off type tweek

Hi All Boa,I am running 2 ea Genesis 928 subwoofers in the front,and 1 ea VMPS Large in the back (activated only for wow effect)GW, The key here is More Bass or better Bass.I would bet if you played around with placement of your KSW200 you could do better.It might be that your listening position is located in a room null here is a quick and dirty trick to find good room responce for your subwoofer place your subwoofer at the listening position. Activate the receivers test tone generator for the subwoofer.Now I know this sounds funny but crawl on your hands and knees while the test tone is running. You will hear Low Freq test tone raise and lower as you change your position throughout the room.This is because the Low Freq's are interacting with the room modes.Pick out a couple of spots where the bass sounded like it has a lot of energy and remember them now if the KSW200 has a Phase switch on the back ( I cant recall) put it in the 180 position and do the same thing.Place the subwoofer at the best logicall position and recalibrate it with your SPL meter Also note that some Onkyo receivers have a bug in there LFE test tone generator for absolute reference they are off by -3 to -10db depending on the model The use of Avia or Video Essentials is better to use than the internal test tones.This verifys the complete chain of gear used to calibrate.

Hi I for one am a firm believer in setting your speakers to small unless you have true full range speakers.I use a small setting even with my KLF-30's as they are not true full range speakers To do this you must have very capable subs,but the results are truly remarkable.Like BOA said if you use your receivers internall xover I would set the cross over at a higher level than the receivers to minimize xover phasing.This also lightens the load on a lower powered receiver and gives you more head room.Placement and proper calibration are a must with this approach,otherwise you will be able to localize where the Low Freq are comming from.

Hi The RC-7 is Bi-wire and Bi-amp capable it has 4ea 5 way binding posts The RS-7 is not,both will accept standard spades I have them terminated this way

Ahh Crap my drawing didnt post,I think you get the idea if not I will reply with futher instructions

Hi you can make your own simply by going to Home Depot Plumbing section.I have used this method for hanging speakers up to 60 lbs each.You use the same parts just bigger sizes for larger speakers.If you dont want to screw into the back of your speaker just use a scrap 3/4 piece of plywood inbetween the flange and your speaker.You can also vary the nipple length and add 90's for adjustable mounts.Being able to use a longer nipple inbetween the flanges is very usefull for speakers that have rear ports,it allows you to gain the distance between the wall and the speaker.You can dress up the mount by Painting the flanges and the nipple.Be shure to use the heavy duty anchors if you dont catch a stud,the kind that have the fat threads that you screw into the sheetrock. The flanges have 4 holes per flange and I use all of them.It will give you a professionall look without the need for a shelf Parts List 3/4" to 1-1/2" Galv Pipe Floor Flange x 4 ea $8 3/4" to 1-1/2" Galv Nipple 1-10" length x2 ea$4 1 box Heavy Duty screw in type wall anchors $3 1 box Heavy duty screws for anchors mounting $3 1 Scrap 3/4" plywood ? 1 can paint $2

Hi We have had excellent results with both the Onkyo and Denon receivers for the Klipsch line They seem to sound warmer and less etched than the other brands.The new Onkyos will give you the biggest bang for the buck as of now,with DTS-ES and DPLII now being offered in there Mid-Priced line up I have not seen the new Kenwoods but judgeing from past preformance I would rate them a couple steps down from these two

Hi I think that the RS-7 is the best rear surround I have ever heard ! I have been listening to alot of multi- channel music The Blue Man Group,Eagles Hell Freezes Over,Cheryl Crow (DVD Audio&DTS).Even though the KLF-30 and RS-7 should have a different tonal signature the blend is seemless,Infact its uncanny just how close they sound.This is very evident in the second track of the Blue Man Group DVD-A you have a rappid snare drum beat that travels from right rear to left rear and then to left front It seems as though you are listening to 3 KLF-30's Movie Special effects are spectacular to say the least. I was also suprised at howwell the RC-7 center sounds with the KLF-30 infact if I had a choice I would go with the RC-7 over the C-7 because it sounds so much better.It is more natural sounding and less "S"imbalant and "H"ootey than the C-7 Let me sum up by saying that for all thoes waiting for a great rear match for the Ledgend Line your time has come and in a big way! You also better check out the RC-7.These 2 combos have allready made me search for my "Depends" and when the RF-7's arrive I am shure I will need the super absorbers