maxsdad

My wife says my LSI's are ugly and don't match the den, but Belles would be nice. I can neither find nor afford Belles, so...

Well, the Chi-coms have gotten my attention again! I love my little LePai 2020 t-amp, and while I was looking for a second for the upcoming cornscalas ( bought the oak for the cabinets today), I saw a thing called a "class A valve buffer". Actually there are three - a class A, $69.00, a $49.00 that is slightly different, and a $44.00 one that seems just like the $49 one in a different case. They all have o single tube sticking up in the middle, and are supposed to go inline amp/preamp or cd/preamp. Two of them are in clear plastic lexan open side cases, the other in a silver aluminum case. Can anybody tell me what the devil these are and do I need one? The name of the seller/manufacturer i "indeed-hi-fi-lab". ?????????????????

Ok, I just finished loading two of my LSI's into the new owner's truck, and I'm trying to make a decision before this money starts a fire in my wallet. What i really want is Khorns, but I have no available corners other than the one my wife would chase me into to beay me to death if I suggest tearing out the brich hearth or moving the steps to the den to build a wall. I have two possibilities - 1. Overhaul the other pair of LSI, make them oak and use them, as all the parts are new, including a set of rebuilt Klipsh AA's that I just installed after getting them form Bob Crites. I talked to the techs at klipsch, who said the new LaScalas have thicker walls for rigidity and tighter bass, so I would probably laminate 1/2 or 3/4 hardwood plywood to the existing cabinet and finish them from there. Or: 2. Build a set of Cornscalas, using the components from the LSI cabinets. Problem is, I just bought the AA's, and they won't work. Other than that, the material cost is about the same. I sure do hate the thought of eating those 5 day old devils. My question to those of you who have dealt w/ Cornscalas - Is the improvement worth eating the AA's? I certainly don't dislke the performance of the Lascala, I think it's great, and I have a serious subwoofer that would make whales wim up on yhe beach if I was by the ocean, but will I get appreciably closer to the sound of the Khorn with the Cornscala? I greatly prefer the midrange of the Lascala over the Cornwall, having actually had both set up in my den to compare directly. Any thoughts?

Does anyone know what years the K-55m midrange and square magnet K-77's were used in lascalas?

Many thanks to all who responded to my question - I set the tv on top and it was fine. Originally I wanted to use all four Lascala's for 5.1, but putiing #3 in line with the fronts on Dolby 3 channel stereo - WOW!!! I may not even put back channels on! I think I'd be better off to sell LSI#4 and use the money for a flat panel tv. Thanks again.

I have finally talked my wife into letting me reconfigure the den to allow for using one of my back channel LSI's as a center. The proposed plan was to sell the remaining LSI & put the proceeds toward a plasma or lcd flat screen, which would be placed above the center, giving me 3 LSI's across the front and Heresy rears. My question is this: in the interim between the reconfiguration and getting the new tv, our existing conventional tv would need to live on top of the center spkr, and all those magnets will surely raise issues w/ the tv, as they are obviously not shielded. Is there a way to circumvent this? I thought maybe a couple sheets of 3/4" foil-faced R-max insulation might block the magnets, but I am not well versed in these matters. Any wisdom will be appreciated.

Well, the Lepai arrived! LED on volume knob lasted 2 hours, but the amps amaking!! Hooked it up to Heresy's, and was blown away! Very quiet after the initial startup pop, ran it for about six hours, stayed cool to the touch. Channels balance perfectly, judging by imaging on tv sound. Bass & treble controls function well, and I have yet to go pst the 11 o'clock poswition on the volume. Will try it on LSI's next. They have another model called amp one, which Daddy Dee said used a different chip & produces 45+45 watts. Is it any good? Costs $139 + $40 to ship.

I just opened up my Cornwalls and saw the k-77, k-33 as I expected, but both midrange drivers have the "PWK" on the flare, but the drivers are stamped with;K-52H. is this the right driver? Klipsch website is down from this computer.

THANKS!!!

Just picked upew Cornwalls tags read CWO, #'s 35Y298; 35Y298. I'm curious as to the year of manufacture. I'm going to open the backs & check drivers & crossovers next.

Thanks to all for the input. Both K-55M drivers are going to Bob Crites for new diaphrams and coming home with fresh AA crossovers. As to the suspicion re: used stuff, not to worry - I got a great deal and planned to relace the AL's anyway. I am still way ahead on cost and a very happy camper!

Hi! I'm new to the forum but have made high end custom wood designs for many years. The previous advice is very sound, but let me add: 1. That woodgrain is a veneer - a very thin veneer, and what's underneath will not be as pretty. 2. A power sander is a very handy and potentially VERY destructive tool. Imagine being able to go 4000 times faster than you did by hand. Now imagine doing while you hand was numb and you can't feel what it's doing. Let just the wight of the sander do the work, and check your depth of cut constantly. I use 100 grit to radius the edges off of corners or remove large amounts of stock very quickly with a randon orbit sander. Always keep the sander moving when it is on the work, or it will dig a hole in the veneer. 3. In terms of grit number - My rule is to use the finest grit that will get the job done. Remember that you may not see them, but each grit leaves scratches that the next finer grit replace with finer scratches, and each set of those scratches is made by removing wood. Look at a cross section of veneer plywood and compare the veneer layer to the structural plies. Your skin is many times thicker! If I can't rub it on my forehead , I don't rub it on veneer. Nothing brings the gratification of seeing woodgrain come to life under your touch. enjoy!

I just checked my midrange horns, & they are K-55m, made I beleive by EV. What, if any, is the difference between this and the Atlas K-55V?

I finally got to take my newly acquired LSI's home & hook 'em up. Two or three songs into the test run, I heard a buzzy rattle come from the right rear, but it was fine on the next song. I thoght maybe it was just some stuff shaking on the wall, but later I noticed that there is no sound coming from the midange horn (K-55 w/AL crossover). I have less than zero tech experience, so I'm coming to the well of knowledge - any ideas?

I have four LSI's, three of which match. they have somewhat rounded corners and are radiused around the horn openings . The fourth has metal edge guards and the horn orifices are 90 degree edges. I have read in other postings that the LSI came in several configurations, one of which being fiberglass. How might I tell if the three "rounded" units are of that type? I had intended to remove the metal edge guards and do a little shaping in the fourth to make it match the others, but don't want to wreck the cabinet. Any Ideas?

Hi! Well, I've embarked on an experiment. I ordered a "Lepai" 20x20(4ohm) from Techex Online via Ebay. It says Tripath TA2020-020 IC. The s/n is listed as >100db and the THD @.05% (which I doubt). It has bass & treble plus volume controls and spring clip speaker terminals. Cost was $19.95+ shipping for a total of $29.98. I plan to try it out on my LSI's at the office. Report to follow. Also, I ordered an Infinity Alpha 1200S sub last night - do you think I'll get Wiley Coyote'd if I put it in line w/ the speaker level inputs? They also have a critter made by Yulong Audio called "Amp One" that has 40x2 (8ohm), 30x2 (8ohm @ .02%thd), binding posts and listed for $139.00+ $40 shipping. We shall see.

I'm going to look at 2 subs tomorrow - a velodyne uld 18/1800 18" servo-controlled down firing and an M&K 150 watt, push/pull 12" with one inverted 12" on bottom and one front-firing - I need a sub to take to the office where my 2nd pair of LSI's will be living until I figure out how to make room for them as rears w/the other two. I have a Polk LSiW (sans recalled amp) that is powered by a Crown Comtech 800. Any Ideas or insight as to the above mentioned subs? they are priced @ 375&300 respectively, which is about where I'd like to stay near. There are a lot of Kipsch subs on ebay (KSW 10, 12, sub 10,12 etc.but I have no experience w/ them. Help!

After seeing some posts re: trend amps, etc., I looked on ebay & found some stuff I've never heard of. Has anybody heard of HLLY amps? How about TOPPING? They list specs and show pix and claim from 10-45 watt power and low distortion - at prices that run from $58-$240. The little ones all look alike, and seem to sty clean to about 6 watts. They all also seem to refer to the following in the specs - T-Amp IC Tripath TO 2024 - they also have a "best offer option and appear from the purhase history to accept most offers - any wisdom for the new guy?

OK, now you have my attention! Are you seriously telling me that a 10 watt amp can actually work with my Lascala's? I am used to thinking in terms of hundreds of watts to prevent clipping, etc.. Granted, I don't see how a human could survive the spl, but I am obviously quite ignorant of this genre' of equipment. What type of volume can they produce? Most important. where do I get one? Are they safe to buy used? Anything you can share is most appreciated!

A good turkey baster, baby snot-sucker or shop vac duct taped to make a seal on the turkey baster tube with the bulb off will suck some very difficult stuff out.

I can't believe the amount of controversy over the sale of these speakers. I realize that I am new to the forum and as a noephyte, must keep a miniscule profile. However, as the actualuyer of the item I hope the following will ease the indignation of those experiencing same: 1. When I found the ad on Craigslist, I had no idea the seller was a forum member. When I found out he was the next morning, it was like getting an extended warranty. However, when I had no idea who Cornman even was, I still didn't sleep that night waiting to race to get the deal. When I told him on the phone in our first conversation that it was an increidble price, he said he got them at a good price and didn't want to pillage anyone. 2. When I read the various posts regarding the original procurment of the set, I actually thought, albeit erroneously, that he got them for thirty bucks! I still couldn't wait to get there. His asking price was still an incredible deal. 3. After meeting Cornman and getting to talk a little bit, I felt that I had made an even better deal than getting two Lascalas for only 400 bucks. I got them for 400 bucks from a really good guy! 4. Cornman - if you get cornered by a lynch mob for making a pittance of a profit while literally making my summer - call me. I'll steal a car if need be and come down and get strung up with you! But not by the first wave of lynchers.

No, not a hypo. Money is always tight, or I'd have bought speakers that used tung oil instead of Armorall for polish. Also, the Kg2's are otherwise engaged. I have switched equipment a lot, and have come to realize that the wealth of experience amoung this group might save a few swaps on the learning curve, thereby lengthening the time until my wife puts me in rehab foe audioaddiction. Thanks for the insight.

I am trying to determine a good rear channel speaker to go with my Kevlar coated Lascala pair. ( I took pictures but have not yet figured out how to add them - I'll keep trying). I have a great pair of Kg2's, but they seem puny. What is the difference between the "indusrtial Heresy and the normal version? I wish I could afford another pair of Lascala's, but unless I got real lucky I lack the money(blew it on health care). I don't necessarily want to coat the new set with bed liner to match the Lascala's but I have to admit, it does look kind of cool! Any wisdom re: bset sonic match? Thanks! p.s.: I am an avid woodworker who specializes in old school, hand rubbed smooth as a baby's butt on a new windsheild finishes. I would never actually put kevlar/rubber paint on a nice piece of wood. The "A.L's" just came that way.

Please allow me use this opportunity to thank all who have helped - very helpful!! The key to wisdom is to know what you don't know, and I'm getting wiser by the minute! I have searched for the recommended stuff, and it has been way out of my price range, but I was wondering what you all think of Carver stuff. I've had a couple (MXR130 & the 705 5 channel - should have kept it!) and am seeing several models that supposedly have a "tube" sound - M400t, M500t - and also see some TFM 35's taht are interesting, but I am realizing how little I actually know. Any input you have would be invaluable to me. Thanks again for all your help!!

Thanks for your help! Magnets are square. Is that good?