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Riot260

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Everything posted by Riot260

  1. thanks might have missed the caps. looks like this will work great.
  2. Definitely a great idea! That would have been done from the getgo but the tops are Decorator Models with open top. Horn and tweet are mounted to 1/2" Fir ply. They are built like Bob Crites original Cornscala. But as they are they fill the room quite nicely. When we built the room we only planned for two then the DMs came along and were added. But now that you have me thinking...........we could probably mount 2x4s to the corners to hang the DMs upside down. It would need to make a big difference to make me want to block up my walls. Have you heard them both ways before? I think if we did that I might have to mount the bass bins tight to the ceiling. All in fun!
  3. Thanks. On the 7805: I am guessing the 4th unidentified terminal is all internally connected to GND. Input 1 is obviously going to be my 12VDC+ input. Output 2 is going to be the 5VDC+ supply to my Bluetooth module. GND 2 is going to be chassis ground? equipment ground? or 12VDC- ? I will be able to mount this to the main amp heat sink, plenty of room there. Any mounting recommendations? I use heat conductive compound between amp & mounting plate. But I see teflon/ceramic insulation between the black plastic body and the heatsink, then a washer to transfer heat to the sink. Or will it be fine simply screwed to the sink? If not who has the insulator? Thanks again!
  4. This is the coolest new toy this year. Belkin makes a RCA Bluetooth adapter. Plug in wall wart plug in RCAs. Wireless 2 channel sound! Awesome with the Ipod touch! I bought 5....one for every amp/receiver location. I just move to a different area and click connect. One drawback no volume control. []
  5. #1: I ordered a set of switches for my integrated amp project and turns out they are momentary switches. They are nice and pretty so I'd like to keep them. I'm drawing a blank.....I need a latching circuit with relay to convert to on/off switch. Any help greatly appreciated! I could probably figure one out......... but a headache and an hour later are not in this weekends schedule. #2: How can I step down 12VDC to 5VDC? I want to add bluetooth to my integrated amp project. I have 12VDC aux connections but the Bluetooth only needs 5VDC. Don't want to melt it. I'm hoping someone could easily rattle one off the top of their head. Thanks
  6. WStrickland1............let me know when you can swing by? I'd love to get a spoiled set of ears to audition my latest project. My 1st amp build! I just wired up dual 400 watt Class D monoblocks. In a jerry rigged chassis now while we decide how to finish off. Pleasantly surprised that it has more balls the the Bedini Class A s.
  7. Let me know when you need the room & I'll set up a desk for you Makes for nice atmosphere to get things done
  8. Yes they are. Bought new caps for them, but they sound so good I haven't taken the time to change them out. I have mahogony veneer to wrap them both with. But been too busy listening. We'll be streaming Allman Brothers live again this Friday and Saturday night. Waiting on my free projector screen to come in. For now just shooting it on the wall. Guess I'll get around to it all sooner or later. Plan is to get music coming out of these CornScalas next. You'll have to stop by after work one afternoon....I am behind CK supply off Dorchester. I ended up with those black Heresys. One is missing a woofer and a K55 driver and the other has a Focal woofer in it. The both have Peavy pole mounts in the bases. See you soon.
  9. Go as big as you can! Short wall is a bad idea 19' is not big enough to create a hole. My room is too small!
  10. What else is better than a pair of KHorns??????? 2 pair!!!!!!!!!!
  11. Moogis rules! Allman Bros Live streaming over the web all week long!
  12. I have posed this question to Klipsch technical support and they could not answer me. The K-48 will handle 1000 watt peak compared to the K-33 400 watt peak both are rated at 100 watt continuous. I would think the K-48 would be an improvement. I might be interested in the K-48s if you decide to sell so I have back ups for my Chorus IIs. I would think they would be an excellant choice for a Cornscala build since bass is the desired result. However I think if they were a significant improvement Klipsch would be using them still. But that could be a cost factor as well. The magnet is substantially bigger on the K-48. Eminence may be the place to inquire since they make them.
  13. Using ductless HVAC in the entire building. New construction. These ductless units are so very quiet. I have customers asking when the the unit will turn on. I usually have to tell them the unit has been running for 20 or 30 minutes. The outdoor unit is that quiet as well. You can't hear the compressor, only a whisper of air movement. They are great for open rooms, sunrooms, master BR additions. They qualify for tax credit too.
  14. If there will not be any ductwork at all, how will 90s help my room or the rest of the building? Thanks for the input but please read the thread so you can make plausable recommendations.
  15. Glad to hear that! I know you are. With the compnents you have it was hard to believe that you were disapointed with the sound. Glad it was something simple. You'll know now.....I doubt you make the same mistake. We're all here to help so just ask!
  16. We've been using 1000 wwatt inverters for years camping............running 2 Crowns bridged into 6 Cornwalls out on an island cover by sprawling oaks. We use a mini generator for cranking them up but when it is time to wind down and the volume gets turned down we switch to battery powered inverters they run for about 6 hrs not pushing them..........pushing them hard they last about 2 hrs then the batteries are dead. Since last springs campout we have purchased some Class T DC amps. They work great especially on 100db+ speakeers. We're able to use a lawnmower battery instaed of (2) 18wheeler batteries. The Class T amps last all weekend but the Crowns do have more uumph for a shorter time.
  17. ASU12RLS 410A INDOOR UNIT HP 25+ SEER AOU12RLS 410A OUTDOOR UNIT HP 25+ SEER http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/wallmounted9-12RLS.htm I own & operate a mechanical contracting company so the HVAC is the easy part. These units are so quiet you cannot hear the compressor running outside much less the air in the room. No duct noise to worry about. I also have 2 feet of space behind the long stage wall for ease of future wiring if required. Thinking of using Cornscalas for centers and since my buddy is going on a 6-24month vacation that will last till the money runs out. He is leaving me to babysit his K Horns and class A Bedini power amps. I don't think I'll charge him too much as a sitter. I am curious if I can use the Cornscalas to sit amps on top of or will it be too much vibration? Or is 16x20 too small for KHorns???
  18. Connect a pair of RCA cables from the front R&L pre out from the Marantz to the Rotel inputs. Then speaker wire from Rotel to L&R front speakers.
  19. I am planning on Fujitsu 26 SEER ductless "mini split" heat pump. Whisper quiet. So no issues there. I will likely keep the walls square though for future Khorn placement, besides it is already framed. But I'll definitely look into sloping the ceiling a foot. Sheetrock ceilings for sure then.
  20. 16x20 with 10ft ceilings 5/8" Sheetrock walls R-19 insulation. R-30 ceiling insulation.....................But what will be best for the ceiling material? Sheetrock? I read not so good things about drop ceiling. Unless high dollar tiles are used. Commercial carpet over slab. Stud walls up now. Any suggestions?
  21. You should already be using your Marantz as a pre amp and your Rotel as a separate. So changing it likely won't make much difference. IMHO You can never have enough power. Headroom is very nice. But power usually comes with a nice price tag. The sensitivity of your main speakers is 100db, not bad. Your amp outputs 95watts x 7 which should be fine for the center and surround duties. Your RF-83s will handle 250wpc and 1000 wpc peak. Your Rotel is pushing 200wpc so it is going to likely be discernable with an extra 50 wpc. Your sub phasing may be out & you could be canceling the output of your mains; since your sub only has a 2 position phase switch I would suggest replacing it entirely or just the amp if you can. First try turning you sub off and see if your mains don't come alive. Then turn the sub back on and listen. Try switching your phase 180 out. Most are somewhere in the middle though......an option you don't have. Phase adjustment can be done with costly meters but your ear is what matters. I adjust mine by ear and feel; more feel. I put my back to the wall turn up a bass guitar track and tweak till it hits me the hardest. The O Audio BASH Sub amp is very nice and has an adjustable phase switch and lots of EQ. http://www.oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html You would have to see if the plates would match up. Also be carefull not to overdrive your 12" not sure what it can handle. That 100watt sub is probably not helping much anyway with the response your mains have to offer. I use a 10" with 1000 watts behind it. It is plenty for my 13x19 room. Many do not know how vital sub phasing is. Also your room dimensions are not helping; a square room is a bad thing when it comes to sine waves. Others here may have more to offer.
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