JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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I would go all 12v auto or marine gear and use auto electronic crossovers. Some of the amps have crossovers inside and many of the head units have digital delays built in.
You can use inverters to turn 12v into 120v, but you lose some power in the conversion.
Car batteries parallel easily for longer service.
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Were I you, I'd be looking at Forte IVs or IIIs. However, Heresy IVs are Excellent and will be quite good near the wall/corners of your room. I do not feel the need for subwoofers with my H IVs.
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Yes, I dropped the taps on the T2A, so the response curve is flatter (reduced the rising response by 3 dB). The result is the woofer at 94 dB/w/m, squawker at 95 dB and the tweeter at 96dB. My center floats in the air above the TV without much wall reinforcement, so I like the subdued squawker and tweeter better.
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The tweeter should be 7.5, the squawker should be 12 - 12.5 and the woofer should be 6-ish, unless a K-22-EF and it will be 8.3-ish.
I had a K-77 tweeter with loose terminals that didn't always contact the voicecoil leads. Manipulating the tweeter often gave good DCRs, until I noticed the terminal moved.
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Having had Type AL La Scalas and Type AA La Scalas in the same room, at the same time, the reputation of the Type AL is very well deserved. I would update them to Type AL-3.
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Were they mine, I'd replace the caps in kind on both, convert the Type D to "E" and replace the K-52-H with a K-55-V. If the crossover schematics are no longer on the Forum, send me a PM. If you can find 2 solder terminal K-55-Vs they are all the better.
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If they didn't have ferrofluid, they don't need any. If it had it, I would recover all I could and reuse it. Unless the voice coil failed, there should be no reason to "change" it and maybe not then.
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I did that to my center channel Heresy so it matches my Type AA La Scalas as much as practical. The Type AA filter EQs the driver a little, but the Type E network compensates for the K-77s response hump well enough and the auto former protects it well enough, too. You may not notice much difference.
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14 hours ago, Invidiosulus said:
I’ve got a little G48 which is a nice sized carry piece but it feels like a cheap toy compared to the Beretta M9 I bought from Marvel when he brought the LS up to NC.
As you'd expect, a Beretta is a nice piece of kit! Blocks have their place, though. 😄
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Convert those to Type AL-3. Type ALs are aweful.
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On 1/29/2022 at 7:35 PM, Curious_George said:
It was a compromise between blown tweeters and sound quality. It’s a known fact the tweeters were (are) delicate. Perhaps the threshold could have been a bit higher so the distortion would not begin until a higher wattage.
Newer technology performs better such as poly switches, but they are not the final answer.
I personally prefer the right light bulb.
The K-77-M is substantially more durable with a 10w cont. rating. In a home setting they are not at much risk so you can defeat the KLiP diodes. I would not recommend that for Pro Audio.
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On 1/29/2022 at 8:33 PM, Curious_George said:
I assume the tweeter in the below diagram is a K77?
Yes, it was. The bulb and resistor form an L-pad (~1 dB, maybe 1.5] until the bulb heats and its resistance rises.
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Nice find! If you keep them, you'll want them on the floor and just a few inches off the wall or corner to get better bass from them. You can expect them to need several days for the woofers to loosten up and make full bass output. Ultimately, you may want a subwoofer, too. Many of us do.
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I heartily agree with Dean. I've had them and the Type AL is a miserable crossover.
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Paducah Home Theater is not far and is EXCELLENT,
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I have one and I don't know how you'd do it. My phones, etc, won't pair to 2 devices at once and have no provision to separate channels. It does have an aux input, so you might be able to make cables to send each channel to different Grooves.
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An H IV will be a better tonal match than anything else short of a 3rd CW III.
I use a Heresy between my 2 La Scalas. I modified the crossover to be as similar to the LA Scala crossover as practical. It much like the HIP's crossover.
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Yes. If you send a forum PM, the recipient gets an email notice. That worked this time.
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I do not remember that lamp. All along I thought I was copying dtr20!
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There were probably more raw birch Heresy Is made that any other. Since the "finished" H Is are also made from plywood, there should be no difference in sound.
MDF cabinets may not be as strong as plywood, but are strong enough and non-resonant. Better to buy the sound you like in the condition you want and ignore the material.
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A 2.5A fast blow will be fine and will limit the total power to about 100 watts. Outside of pro audio, they don't need it.
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I contacted Gil via PM through the forum. While I have an email address, he hasn't answered it in over a year, so I doubt it still works.
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13 hours ago, Coytee said:
It does look nice AND can double as a spot.....to keep your Glock....
I just acquired one of those rotten things. It uses the same mags as a carbine I have. Kind of a New West sort of thing. Despise the trigger. 🙂
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Actually, you did not state what and how many subwoofers you have. Having gone from 1 to 2 to 4 VMPS New Larger Subwoofers, that is another area where you can find improved performance. Have a look at the attached research paper.
Klipsch Horn Lamp 2
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
Unless you really live in the sticks, any machine shop can do it for little cash. Take the horn and/or a driver to match the thread.