JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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They were glued and nailed. Looks like with a nail gun, and then the holes were filled where visible from the outside.
I don't suppose it would hurt, but adding material to the outside is not needed on the back, top and bottom. Those areas are already braced with various bits so that any unbraced length is quite short.
Inspect thoroughly to see what they need; I'll guess only cosmetic repair. If the doghouse/woofer chamber has separated, adding a little glue and screws to pull the edges together would be good. It won't hurt to drizzle some thinned wood glue along the inside seams of the woofer chamber to ensure they remain sealed. While you're in there, snug up the woofer bolts.
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The power rating is the diode power tolerance. They limit voltage to 5.1, so (5.1 x 5.1)/8 = 3.25 watts to the tweeter. Good for K-77s.
I used a bulb and resistor as an L-pad for -1dB and tweeter protection. The hotter the filament, the higher the resistance.
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Sharp impacts have been said to demagnetize AlNiCo magnets. I would not try any hammer. Penetrating oil and patience. If you can keep the strap wrench forward of the rubber gasket, maybe. The dome is sheet metal.
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Beautiful work, as usual! How DO they sound?
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Did both drivers fail?
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Yeah, need pics. The dimensions don't match up.
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On 12/2/2020 at 10:03 AM, Panelhead said:
Psychomed radio is GONE. They had six streams running, all at 320 k. Great music selection.
I noticed it a month ago, hoped it was technical issue. Guess it was a financial issue.
Looks like you are correct. Even an e-mail asking about them bounced back. I hate that!
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Klipsch officially stated and used 6k up until about 2002 and then switched to 4500 Hz with a highly sophisticated Type AK/AL-4. Depending on the squawker driver, either one could be right. All of my older Heritage speakers run the 2-piece, solder-lug K-55-V that readily reaches 6k. Early K-55-Vs, Atlas PD5-VH and modern K-55-X (?) drivers don't go much above 4500 Hz, maybe 5k.
I can't remember which squawker and tweeter you ended up with, so I'm not sure what to recommend.
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The AL-3s were developed with a slightly different woofer (round magnet supposedly with a higher Fs) and a different squawker (K-55-M, supposedly about 1 dB hotter). The AL-3 has steeper crossover slopes and some woofer and tweeter eq. While it can't hurt to try, I'll bet the AL-3 will not be so nice with -V squawker and the older square magnet woofers.
Were I you, I'd add an inductor to the squawker like the attached schematic and change the tweeter to a B&C DE120 based tweeter. If you like La Scalas, you will surely like them this way. You can even place the tweeter on top of the cabinet over the squawker to time align the HF. I am running DE120s on Fastrac tweeter horns. They're sweet and silky.
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8 hours ago, Dawson's Ridge said:
Not a pretty sight. Now I know why the Cornwall IV is so heavy, it is the used 2x4's placed inside to keep the front baffle from caving in. Inexpensive horn material and low-grade x/o parts and cheap stamped steel woofer basket.
Are just a troll? Do you complain about a free lunch?
Your comments are more than unfair. Steel, stamped or otherwise is among the stiffest of metals, 3x stiffer than Aluminum, and is the normal material for woofer baskets. The cabinet does not need a 2x4 to prevent "caving in", but like all materials the wood may need to be stiffer. Why pay to rip a 2x4 when it fits as is? Those hand wound, iron-core inductors are not low grade. Iron-core has lower resistance and a very tight magnetic field so there is little worry of one affecting another. Those film and foil capacitors are not "low grade". Little is gained from $700 silver foil caps.
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On 11/10/2020 at 11:14 PM, NinjaNick1 said:
5-10 watts? Saying theyre weak?
Mr. Paul used to say something like, "bragging about how much power your speakers need, is like bragging about how much gasoline your car can burn." I remember when Blose used to brag that their 901s [gag] could be plugged into a 120V wall socket and survive the 3600 watts applied. Assessing quality by the amount of power a speaker can absorb without bursting into flames is wrong and a fundamental misunderstanding of speakers.
Better to brag (if that were really necessary) about how little power your speakers need (re: mpg) because that is a small indication of the low distortion levels they likely produce. High efficiency means small cone movements that closely track the music without adding anything.
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Strength and ease of assembly. Cut that corner and your glue joint will be thin and your nails will have nothing much to hold.
It you are looking to change it, make fairing strips to fill the step down to the "roof" and smooth the joint. Listen with and without them. They will be more easily added and glued after completion of the bass horn.
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Babadono has a good point, but a DIY tester would have some trouble separating the direct sound from the source from the reflected sound from panel. I believe the test is sufficient to identify differences, because sound will pass through the panel to the wall and reflect back through the panel into the room.
I devised a panel design with A/C duct board, but then never built them because, curtains, carpet, furniture and acoustic tile made a dead room.
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I, too, would not recommend you buy a Behringer. I've had excess trouble with the bits I've bought.
You should notice better focus when the system is time aligned, so do it! Try the Behringer to get a feel, it's free. But you should buy better. I've heard a system running a Xilica. It was nice.
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Very nice find!
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Give them some time. My new Heresy IVs were much better after 3 days of bass heavy music (dub step, actually) with all the bass boost I could find (but not that loud and with the door shut). 🤣 The woofers are stiff when new and their suspensions loosen with time. They did not change after 5 days of such treatment.
You just might be the poster from the most distant place!
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$300 per for the conversion seems like a nice deal.
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Look into Uship and ask that the seller or shipper wrap them in shipping blankets.
Which Orange County are you in? At their typical value, I'd go get them if you're not in CA. And I might even then. They will both fit in the back of many SUVs. Mine fit in the back of my 2-door Explorer, sideways.
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For clarity's sake, a subwoofer is a specialized speaker in a separate enclosure and rarely, to never, part of the main speaker. Full range speakers have *woofers*, not subwoofers, regardless of how deep they play.
I cannot think of any Klipsch speaker system with two 15" drivers other than Pro/Cinema systems and subwoofers, and those did not have passive radiators.
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4 hours ago, Kababayan said:
So I can just connect the speaker wires to the top two sets of connectors only? Does it matter if I connect them to the top or the bottom set of connectors? Thank you all very much for the help. I really appreciate it.
Yes. You can connect your speaker wires to any red and any black, as long as the jumpers are installed and tight. No damage will occur without the jumpers, but you may not hear all the sound.
Dual terminals are for bi-wiring; one set of wires for the woofer(s) and one set for the treble section. Some people believe that sounds better. At the least, it gives the equivalent of a single wire twice as big for lower resistance.
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While I don't believe the truth is in a tube, you should look hard at McIntosh Integrateds, such as a MA230. A Mac will be easy on tubes and after a refurbishment will be rock reliable.
You should be able to get in under your $3k limit.
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It *is* a good price, but you can buy H IVs for several hundred less, shipped.
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Check out Anthem electronics. Some look quite affordable and there is a dealer in Shanghai, if you can get up there.
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That IS a returnable offense. The ones I've heard don't do that.
LARGER HERESY CLONE BUILD
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Nice work. Very pretty!