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JohnA

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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. In my experience, cables matter, some, but their differences are subtle.  One reason is your speaker cables will normally pass very little power, 1/2 watt or less, so losses are miniscule.  This is due to the Chorus' sensitivity.  However, since the cost is low (discounting my sore fingers), I use thick speaker cables, about 11 gauge.  Mine are hand made braided CAT-5E, but low resistance from 10 or 12 ga wire is most important. 

     

    My interconnects are moderately priced, but the preamp to power amp cables for the front 3 are silver-clad copper with tight fitting, heavy phono plugs.  I use those because I could hear a change in sound I liked.  I used those on my turntable, too.  They were about $40/meter 25 years ago.  The other line level cables and digital cables are similar, but unclad copper and 1/2 the price.  The brand is Vampire Wire, but only their connectors are available, now.  The cables are unique because the shield does not carry the signal and is only bonded at the preamp end. 

     

    I recommend you find similar, moderately priced cables because there is some improvement in sound and quality lasts, but beyond a point, improvement costs exponentially more money for another tiny improvement. 

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    • Like 1
  2. On 7/17/2023 at 12:05 PM, Toby001 said:

    Did Klipsch use birch wood because it was cheap and lightweight or because it yielded the best acoustic results?

    Or does any other stiff wood do the job as well?

     

    Yes, and Yes.  Baltic Birch is neither light, nor cheap, over here, but it can be had in a void free "plywood", a layered, glued construct that is surely what you called multiplex.  Other plywoods can be and have been used in Klipschorns and other Klipsch speakers.  My La Scalas are made from plywood with a birch veneer on the top and bottom.  I do not know what is in the other layers.  I have read it was a void-free product made for Klipsch that is similar to home cabinet birch veneered plywood, like what I have in my kitchen (la cucina).

  3. On 7/13/2023 at 2:45 PM, Toby001 said:

    Hello everyone, thank you for your information. Do I understand correctly that it doesn't actually matter about the wood?

     

     

     

    Well, it matters that the visible wood is pretty.  It matters that the wood comprising the walls of the horn is stiff, and relatively smooth (vs the wavelength passing).  It matters that the wood used is economical, so we can afford the speakers.  The species and other details don't matter much, at all. 

  4. On 9/11/2022 at 4:15 PM, Gregavi said:

    I have 1 Heresy Circa 1984 that I use as a center channel to go with my 2 La Scalas. I ordered replacement caps from Digikey for the Heresy. 3 of them cost me about $16 including shipping. I replaced the entire crossovers several years ago for the La Scalas with B&K Sound crossovers. HUGE difference. I will be replacing the crappy speaker terminal also. 

     

     

     

    i also use a Heresy I between 2 La Scalas.  I modified the Heresy crossover to more closely match the Type AA in my La Scalas.  They are much like HIP crossovers.  I think it helps the match, but it is still a little off in the mids.  It is not noticeable to most people. 

  5. In the rear plys you will find the serial number stamped.  The letter code denotes the year, the numbers describe the production number.  They are Cornwall Is and most likely had square magnet K-33-E woofers, but the serial number will tell.  The cabinet and ports are tuned for the production woofer, but the earlier woofers all had very similar parameters to the mentioned K-33-E. 

  6. On 7/5/2023 at 10:21 PM, AlKit said:

    The typical wall finish for the ICF will be sheet rock screwed to the foam that makes up the concrete form...because of this the sheet rock will not really resonate (reverb or whatever) at all, and I don't think it will produce much bass effect.

     

    The ceiling will be more typical with joists and sheet rock.

     

    What do you think?  Make a false corner for the horns?

     

    I appreciate the replies, thank you.

     

     

    On 7/6/2023 at 8:24 PM, AlKit said:

    The wall won't vibrate...at least not much, it's mostly concrete.

     

     

    You ABSOLUTELY do not want the walls to vibrate.  They should be stiff and non-resonant as they are an "extension" of the bass horn.  Horns should be stiff and without vibration in the frequency range where they operate. 

     

    Your wall should be stiff enough and you have no need for false corners, unless you have no square corners. 

    • Like 1
  7. On 7/11/2023 at 3:46 PM, dtel said:

    No never tried that, but years ago I did get a couple of CB conversation's once, it was automatic nothing was done on my part for sure and it was quite surprising Glad it did not last. 

     

    In the late '60s trucks leaving the nearby manufacturing plant would come through the audio system at church.  Thankfully, they followed the rules and did not use profanity back then!  It always amused this 10-y.o.

    • Haha 2
  8. Partymark,

     

    I ran some old Parasound amps with my La Scala HT system.  They make excellent sounding gear, warm and smooth.  I doubt you will find any integrated amp that will sound better.  Integrated are compact and simple without wires everywhere, but all separates traditionally sound better. 

     

    Nothing wrong with experimenting so you'll know, but my take is that you are dragon hunting. 

  9. 'Deezie,

     

    I had a similar problem with some old Parasound power amps.  The cure was turning down the amp's input gain controls. 

     

    Contact Pass Labs.  Mr. Pass is well aquainted with Klipsch and horns.  I believe they will adjust your amp to reduce or eliminate your hiss.  Then, you can keep what I'm sure is a wonderful sounding amp. 

    • Like 1
  10. On 6/24/2023 at 12:37 PM, chronometers said:

    Why in pairs?  Also, did Klipsch originally select specific driver units for each type of model?  From some of the older speakers I've seen, they appear to be ink stamped with the model they went into.  I wonder if Klipsch was more selective the higher you went up in the model line?  Does anyone know?

     

    I saw where Paul Klipsch sent an owner a letter with two tweeters for a K-horn in the 1970s and stated that these were "matched".  

     

     

    Klipsch tests every component and/or speaker.  In the early days, particularly with the T-35/K-77, it has been said each one was tested and sorted and some sent back.  From that, we can infer the better performing drivers MAY have been installed in the more expensive models, like the Klipschorn.  There were also different crossovers in the " W" series that may have been an attempt to accommodate driver performance.  Only Jim Hunter and Wooly Mammoths were alive back then.  😆.

     

    The short answer, now, is a K-77-? and a K-55-V/X and a K-33-? can be exchanged for any other, though there are some subtleties that may make you refrain from swapping some, particularly the woofers. 

     

    Were you to have enough drivers and the test gear you could cull the lower performing examples, too. 

    • Thanks 1
  11. Should be a good choice!  They should pair well with a 2270. 

     

    That was a transition period and we have nicknamed them Heresy 1.5s.  They likely have H II squawker drivers. 

     

    You'll have to try in your room, but I'd expect them to sound best near a wall, but not too close to the corner (affects male vocals too much).  I liked running a subwoofer with my H Is.  (If you can hear a subwoofer, it is 10 dB too loud.).

  12. On 6/26/2023 at 9:18 AM, Dave69 said:

    First post here. So 👋 hello.  I've had my Klipsch speakers for a long long time. Bought the KG 4.2's from Sound Advice in North Miami back in 93.  Still have them still love them. Later got a set of KG 4.5's then a KV 4 center channel. So, I just upgraded to a Marantz sr7015. To good a deal to pass up. I'm thinking of replacing my k.g 4.5's. My choices are, sticking with vintage for the most part, KG 5.2's, CF2's or SF3's. Standing in the room with music, the 4.2s sound better than the 4.5's to me. The highs are about even but the 4.2's seem to have a richer sound. Also have Infinity RS1s for rear, but I have a set of Klipsch r14m's on the way to replace those. Either way, stick with the 4

    5's or are any of the 3 others a better choice. I'm not saying the 4.5 sounds bad I'm just seeing if I can find something a little better. It's a medium sized room 

     

     

    What I'd do is put the 4.2s in the front, put the 4.5s as rears, use the R14ms as rear fills (or in another room for stereo) and spend my money on 2 or more subwoofers.  More sub's means less distortion and more even coverage in the room, not the mention the power available when the depth charges go off! 

  13. While the magnet could shift and ruin a compression driver, normally, the voicecoil in the diaphragm opens and the fix is easy for a trained tech.  It is equal to reconing a woofer.  NB: the K-55-V/X and K-55-M diaphragms are quite similar and some have said the -V (Atlas) diaphragm can be modified to fit a -M, they are NOT the same. 

     

     

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    $200 sounds like way too much for a K-55-M. 

     

    Newer tweeters that flush mount the tweeter mouths will be a nice upgrade.  You will hear that.  Send me a PM. 

     

    Listen a while once they're fixed.  At that age, they may be ready for new capacitors.  La Scala's are not polite and "laid back".  They live and breathe in the room with you. 

    • Like 2
  14. Inside braces, offset a little, make the most sense from the engineer's point of view. 

     

    Second is to add 6mm or so to the outside of the sides of the bass horn.  The addition must be fully glued and should be anchored with a few screws or nails so it fully bonds to the horn walls.  That's a lot of weight for the improvement.  The rest of the bass horn is well braced and needs nothing added. 

     

    Had I realized, I'd have added the inside braces before finishing.  Since they don't misbehave until I recreate a rock concert, I don't worry about the resonance.  I did have a 19mm x 19mm strip of solid cherry added to the front edge to cover the edge plys, maybe that helps. 

  15. A real Garage Sale!  I bought a pair of Birch cabinet kits from Parts Express for PA speakers.  Well, the need and usage has disappeared and I've had these taking up space in my climate controlled garage for years.  Time to go.  Included is a pair of steel mesh grille covers.  The kits are cut for a 12" woofer and have plenty of room for a K-700 to make a 2-way Pro Heresy-like speaker.  They are made from 13-ply Birch.

    https://www.parts-express.com/PA-Knock-Down-Trapezoid-Plywood-Speaker-Cabinet-for-12-Driv-245-324?quantity=1

    They are nor currently available and may or may not be offered again.  I waited several years to find these, again.  they are still in the original PE shipping boxes. 

    $225 shipped to CONUS. 

    Birch img1.jpg

    Birch img2.jpg

    Birch img3.jpg

    • Like 1
  16. 6 hours ago, chronometers said:

    The connection to the floor is an important design element in the bass delivery?   This must also apply to K-horn. 

     

    I remember reading about mounting other types of speakers on heavy stands and installing spikes that firmly connected the system to the floor.   

     

    Important?  Sure, it's a boundary layer that reflects bass energy, but a few inches are irrelevant.  The Klipschorn's bass horn works a little differently, the walls and floor are an imperfect part of the horn. 

     

    The mass of the Klipsch "Big 3" negates the need for spikes and heavy stands.  The moving mass of the woofer is so small in relation to the speaker, it will not cause cabinet movement.  The old Rat Shack Mach 1 was a perfect example of light cabinet/heavy woofer needing an anchor. 

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